Mathematical Aiming System

Colin Colenso

Colin Colenso

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I just thought up a new aiming system which some may find useful. Not sure if anyone has proposed this method before, but it wouldn't suprise me if they had.

The purpose of it is to be mathematically accurate for all angles but also easy and consistant in its methodology.

It requires just 2 points, the OB contact point which is relatively easy to see and the CB center point. Much like the basic erroneous system many of us learned when we first started.

But as we know, this system alone means angled shots are hit too thick. So there is a mathematical method of adjustment which is key to this system.

The adjustment is done by moving the bridge point according to the formula:
Distance of Movement = (sine of angle / length of shot in feet) x 15mm.

So you need to be able to estimate the angle of the shot within 5 degrees. Not so hard with some practice. And then know the sine of this angle, which can be easily estimated from this guide:

Sine of Various Cut Angles
90...1
80...0.98
70...0.94
60...0.87
50...0.77
45...0.71
40...0.64
30...0.5
20...0.34
10...0.17
0....0

Also, this formula is based on an 8" bridge length, it can be adjusted for different bridge lengths. For example a 6" bridge length the multiplying factor would be about 12mm, for a 12" bridge length you would multiply by about 20mm. This doesn't need to be exact. Rounded off numbers will work well within the margin or error of most pots.

So, for a half ball shot (30 degrees) with CB 3 feet from the OB you would line the Center of the CB to the Contact Point on the OB and move your bridge point across this amount: (for an 8" bridge)
sin30 = 0.5 divided by 3 feet = 0.167 x 15mm = approx 2.4mm

Now if your bridge is at your pivot point you can fire away with any side english you want from here. If you want center CB contact then just pivot the cue from this point to the center of the OB.

Let's imagine you have an 8 foot shot with an 80 degree cut:
Sin80 = 0.98 / 8 feet = 0.12 time 15mm = approx 1.7mm

So line up to the contact point and adjust bridge almost 2mm in the appropriate direction and fire away.

Now lets imagine a 60 degree cut from 15 inches away.
Sin60 = 0.87 / 1.25feet = about 0.7 times 15mm = 10.5mm (almost one tip width).

With some practice you should be able to estimate the angles well enough and remember the sine conversions close enough.

This system should give better accuracy than the HH 3 point system I believe.

Give it a try and let me know your results.

If you want to understand the math more clearly, just ask.

Colin
 
Colin Colenso said:
I just thought up a new aiming system which some may find useful. Not sure if anyone has proposed this method before, but it wouldn't suprise me if they had.

The purpose of it is to be mathematically accurate for all angles but also easy and consistant in its methodology.

It requires just 2 points, the OB contact point which is relatively easy to see and the CB center point. Much like the basic erroneous system many of us learned when we first started.

But as we know, this system alone means angled shots are hit too thick. So there is a mathematical method of adjustment which is key to this system.

The adjustment is done by moving the bridge point according to the formula:
Distance of Movement = (sine of angle / length of shot in feet) x 15mm.

So you need to be able to estimate the angle of the shot within 5 degrees. Not so hard with some practice. And then know the sine of this angle, which can be easily estimated from this guide:

Sine of Various Cut Angles
90...1
80...0.98
70...0.94
60...0.87
50...0.77
45...0.71
40...0.64
30...0.5
20...0.34
10...0.17
0....0

Also, this formula is based on an 8" bridge length, it can be adjusted for different bridge lengths. For example a 6" bridge length the multiplying factor would be about 12mm, for a 12" bridge length you would multiply by about 20mm. This doesn't need to be exact. Rounded off numbers will work well within the margin or error of most pots.

So, for a half ball shot (30 degrees) with CB 3 feet from the OB you would line the Center of the CB to the Contact Point on the OB and move your bridge point across this amount: (for an 8" bridge)
sin30 = 0.5 divided by 3 feet = 0.167 x 15mm = approx 2.4mm

Now if your bridge is at your pivot point you can fire away with any side english you want from here. If you want center CB contact then just pivot the cue from this point to the center of the OB.

Let's imagine you have an 8 foot shot with an 80 degree cut:
Sin80 = 0.98 / 8 feet = 0.12 time 15mm = approx 1.7mm

So line up to the contact point and adjust bridge almost 2mm in the appropriate direction and fire away.

Now lets imagine a 60 degree cut from 15 inches away.
Sin60 = 0.87 / 1.25feet = about 0.7 times 15mm = 10.5mm (almost one tip width).

With some practice you should be able to estimate the angles well enough and remember the sine conversions close enough.

This system should give better accuracy than the HH 3 point system I believe.

Give it a try and let me know your results.

If you want to understand the math more clearly, just ask.

Colin
Click to expand...

LOL, whats happening to you Colin, youre turning into Nick Faldo on crack!

I remember I used to spend hours on neatly preparing my revision schedule, took days sometimes. Now stop wasting time on all these bloody systems and put the hours in will you!
 
Hi Colin. I'm trying to understand your system. In what exact direction do you move your bridge point? I'm assuming the direction you move is perpendicular to the original aim line, which is the line that goes through the CB center and the OB. I'm also assuming after you move your bridge point, you still want to hit through the CB's center, and that your aiming trajector isn't perfectly parallel to the original aim line. Just double checking your math :p .
 
chalk, check, cue, check, protractor?

Colin can i get a hand with my Tax refund?

Cheers
Dave
 
Colin Colenso said:
I just thought up a new aiming system which some may find useful. Not sure if anyone has proposed this method before, but it wouldn't suprise me if they had.

The purpose of it is to be mathematically accurate for all angles but also easy and consistant in its methodology.

It requires just 2 points, the OB contact point which is relatively easy to see and the CB center point. Much like the basic erroneous system many of us learned when we first started.

But as we know, this system alone means angled shots are hit too thick. So there is a mathematical method of adjustment which is key to this system.

The adjustment is done by moving the bridge point according to the formula:
Distance of Movement = (sine of angle / length of shot in feet) x 15mm.

So you need to be able to estimate the angle of the shot within 5 degrees. Not so hard with some practice. And then know the sine of this angle, which can be easily estimated from this guide:

Sine of Various Cut Angles
90...1
80...0.98
70...0.94
60...0.87
50...0.77
45...0.71
40...0.64
30...0.5
20...0.34
10...0.17
0....0

Also, this formula is based on an 8" bridge length, it can be adjusted for different bridge lengths. For example a 6" bridge length the multiplying factor would be about 12mm, for a 12" bridge length you would multiply by about 20mm. This doesn't need to be exact. Rounded off numbers will work well within the margin or error of most pots.

So, for a half ball shot (30 degrees) with CB 3 feet from the OB you would line the Center of the CB to the Contact Point on the OB and move your bridge point across this amount: (for an 8" bridge)
sin30 = 0.5 divided by 3 feet = 0.167 x 15mm = approx 2.4mm

Now if your bridge is at your pivot point you can fire away with any side english you want from here. If you want center CB contact then just pivot the cue from this point to the center of the OB.

Let's imagine you have an 8 foot shot with an 80 degree cut:
Sin80 = 0.98 / 8 feet = 0.12 time 15mm = approx 1.7mm

So line up to the contact point and adjust bridge almost 2mm in the appropriate direction and fire away.

Now lets imagine a 60 degree cut from 15 inches away.
Sin60 = 0.87 / 1.25feet = about 0.7 times 15mm = 10.5mm (almost one tip width).

With some practice you should be able to estimate the angles well enough and remember the sine conversions close enough.

This system should give better accuracy than the HH 3 point system I believe.

Give it a try and let me know your results.

If you want to understand the math more clearly, just ask.

Colin
Click to expand...


Looking at the new Avitar I must ask...Are you realted to Phil Mickelson??

I won't argue your math on this system Colin, but at the same time, I don't want to have to carry a calculator...

Remeber...The "aiming sytem" that you use is only a tool to allow you to get the right "feel" for the shot....AKA "find the angle" "see the shot" "be the ball" etc etc.

I feel like your trying too hard to get the "perfect" system that will allow you to shoot by numbers and not ever have to have the right "feel"..I used to be that way and think that way......but there is no perfect system

A am sure at this point you have been informed on the HH 3-line system... Center CB to 1/4 OB / Center CB to Edge of OB / 1/4 CB to Edge of OB / and 1/4 CB to Edge of OB...then pivot to center CB for super thin cuts..AKA "shish kebob"

The only hard part of this system is knowing which "aim" to use as the angles change...Here is the method I use to "confirm" which is the right "aim" if I am unsure on a particular angle...

Try this....Find your "actual" contact point on the OB..(straight line from the pocket through the OB)...Let your tip rest on the cloth 1/2 ball width away from the contact point...To check if your tip is the right distance away, look at the reflection of the tip in the OB. When your in the right spot the reflection will be about 1/2 way UP the OB...Now leaving your tip in that spot swing the butt end around so the it is over the center of the OB....You will almost immediatly see which one of the "aims" lines up...

After a few times you don't even need the cue..You can just visualize the process....or "conversion" as I call it....

Perhaps there is an element of "feel" or subcounsious adjustment in the HH system...I don't have the brain power to argue that....All I do know for sure is that if I do the simple "conversion process" above, I feel like I can make any possible shot on the table...and no math other than what edge means and what two fractions mean (1/2 and 1/4)

The most important thing is this allows me to not worry about making balls, and allows me to focus on patterns, shape, speed, etc....which is really the separtation between A and A+ and definatley what I would tend to think you need to be working on for the IPT.....making balls should be the least of your worries...(hopefully you do not take offense to that)
 
Last edited:
I can just see ...

some guy down on his shot falling asleep from being so
weary after trying to do your calculations in his head ... lol

Isn't that a foul?

and Colin, 'anal retentive' is not a good term to be labeled,
tell Fred, will ya?
 
Geez Colin, and people think I'm anal! LOL. I would need a calculator AND a compass to precisely figure the angles. Good luck with your system, it will be interesting to see you play on the IPT tour and if it works.
 
I forget if I have highs or lows sometimes, heaven only knows what would happen if I started doing math calculations.
 
jsp said:
Hi Colin. I'm trying to understand your system. In what exact direction do you move your bridge point? I'm assuming the direction you move is perpendicular to the original aim line, which is the line that goes through the CB center and the OB. I'm also assuming after you move your bridge point, you still want to hit through the CB's center, and that your aiming trajector isn't perfectly parallel to the original aim line. Just double checking your math :p .
Click to expand...
You move the bridge hand toward the pocket side. Then pivot the tip back to the center of the CB if you want a center ball hit.

As the calculations will be too much effort for most people, I made a 3-D graph that you can use to make your adjustment estimates.

Colin>~ More deranged than Nick Faldo on Crack! :p
 

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Colin Colenso said:
You move the bridge hand toward the pocket side. Then pivot the tip back to the center of the CB if you want a center ball hit.

As the calculations will be too much effort for most people, I made a 3-D graph that you can use to make your adjustment estimates.

Colin>~ More deranged than Nick Faldo on Crack! :p
Click to expand...


.....OMG!!!!!.....
 
Humm, I'm hoping I never play someone trying to learn this system. Well on second thought its ok if were betting high. :) Personally I've never seen the worldly acclaimed "contact point" all I see are angles. Besides I don't drink enough to handle this system. :D

Rod
 
BRKNRUN said:
Looking at the new Avitar I must ask...Are you realted to Phil Mickelson??

I won't argue your math on this system Colin, but at the same time, I don't want to have to carry a calculator...

Remeber...The "aiming sytem" that you use is only a tool to allow you to get the right "feel" for the shot....AKA "find the angle" "see the shot" "be the ball" etc etc.

I feel like your trying too hard to get the "perfect" system that will allow you to shoot by numbers and not ever have to have the right "feel"..I used to be that way and think that way......but there is no perfect system

A am sure at this point you have been informed on the HH 3-line system... Center CB to 1/4 OB / Center CB to Edge of OB / 1/4 CB to Edge of OB / and 1/4 CB to Edge of OB...then pivot to center CB for super thin cuts..AKA "shish kebob"

The only hard part of this system is knowing which "aim" to use as the angles change...Here is the method I use to "confirm" which is the right "aim" if I am unsure on a particular angle...

Try this....Find your "actual" contact point on the OB..(straight line from the pocket through the OB)...Let your tip rest on the cloth 1/2 ball width away from the contact point...To check if your tip is the right distance away, look at the reflection of the tip in the OB. When your in the right spot the reflection will be about 1/2 way UP the OB...Now leaving your tip in that spot swing the butt end around so the it is over the center of the OB....You will almost immediatly see which one of the "aims" lines up...

After a few times you don't even need the cue..You can just visualize the process....or "conversion" as I call it....

Perhaps there is an element of "feel" or subcounsious adjustment in the HH system...I don't have the brain power to argue that....All I do know for sure is that if I do the simple "conversion process" above, I feel like I can make any possible shot on the table...and no math other than what edge means and what two fractions mean (1/2 and 1/4)

The most important thing is this allows me to not worry about making balls, and allows me to focus on patterns, shape, speed, etc....which is really the separtation between A and A+ and definatley what I would tend to think you need to be working on for the IPT.....making balls should be the least of your worries...(hopefully you do not take offense to that)
Click to expand...

No offense taken:D
I just like to mess around with maths / physics type problems, always have.

I've studied and debated the HH systems and other systems a bit. Tried them too and didn't find them particularly useful.

I am pretty much a feel player in that I see the line of the CB to the OB and the line from the OB to the pocket and pretty much just slide into the line that feels right for the shot. This is basically the result of many years on snooker and english pool tables training.

But I am curious about aiming systems and would consider adapting to one or several if they worked well for me.

I doubt I'd use the system I'm describing above, but I think for someone who is looking for a system to develop it makes as much if not more sense than others I've seen.
 
Do you have a job? Just wondering. Anyway, I don't have the calculator or compass or slide rule or anything, much less a ruler to measure mm. 1.7mm - how would I find that to adjust - take my 12.5 mm tip and divide from there???
 
Hi Colin...jsp again. I spent the last 20 minutes here at work trying to derive your formula. Because of the complexity in calcuating your formula, I assumed that the equation would obtain an exact answer. But looking at your fomula again, this must be just an approximation. The units in your formula don't make any mathematical sense. Here is your equation again...

Distance of Movement = (sine of angle / length of shot in feet) x 15mm

You're solving for "distance of movement", which should have units of length. The other side of the equation must have the units of length as well, but the right side is unitless! The units for "Length of shot in feet" and 15mm cancel out, and all you have left are the units of "sine of angle", but that is unitless. Is there more to your formula that we're missing?

Oh...wait. Looking at your formula yet again, i'm thinking that 15 is just a constant of proportionality, and has nothing to do with an actual real dimension of 15mm. Okay, i think i understand now. Don't send this formula to a mathematician, cuz he'll have fits. A more mathematically sound way to express your formula is as follows:

Distance of Movement (mm) = [sine of angle / length of shot (feet)] x 15 (feet*mm)

Here, at least the units agree with each other. :D Okay...now let me see if I can derive this 15 number ;)
 
Colin Colenso said:
Colin>~ More deranged than Nick Faldo on Crack! :p
Click to expand...


Looks poorly designed, you need some residential area and parks between those hotels. :D

Rod
 
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