McDermott shafts - i-2?

Metalbutt3

New member
I purchased my McDermott several years ago with whatever the stock shaft was at the time. I am having trouble playing position properly because I can't get the cueball action I would like. I am also missing shots hit with english, due presumably to deflection.

My technique notwithstanding, I am thinking about getting an i-2 shaft. Can anyone offer their thoughts on this or other low deflection shafts compatible with McDermott cues? Will it help me get more draw and force follow? How much difference does a Moori or Kamui tip make? Thank you.
 
I purchased my McDermott several years ago with whatever the stock shaft was at the time. I am having trouble playing position properly because I can't get the cueball action I would like. I am also missing shots hit with english, due presumably to deflection.

My technique notwithstanding, I am thinking about getting an i-2 shaft. Can anyone offer their thoughts on this or other low deflection shafts compatible with McDermott cues? Will it help me get more draw and force follow? How much difference does a Moori or Kamui tip make? Thank you.

I played with an I-2 for about a year and loved it but eventually needed more out of a shaft so I set it aside for a backup shaft. A few things I didnt like about it was the short ferrule which created a harder hit and a sound that is different than any other shaft you will ever play with. The low deflection characteristics were alright but not the best Ive seen and I got about the same amount of cue ball action as I did with a maple shaft. Last year out in vegas I checked out all the booths and shot with all the LD shafts out there and found one that I fell in love with....The OB-2! This is all opinion ofcourse, but for me it was effortless to get the english that I wanted to use, so much so that I actually had only use 1/2 the english I normally used to get the ball to do what I wanted it to do. 1 major reason for this is its a 11.75mm and there is a serious learning curve to go with it. Smaller tip means you have to be much accurate on your hit. I also used the OB-1 (12.75mm) out there and it shot great too. I know many people that love them. The OB-1 might be closer to what you are looking for since you were looking at the I-2. People rant and rave about about predator shafts too but I never liked the feel of them.

As for draw and follow, you need to have a solid stroke with a good bridge to achieve those consistently. A good cue and good tip help alot too.

As for tips, they have alot to do with cue ball action, Ive used many and prefer moori but the Kamui's shoot great but theyre just not for me, both are pricey, but any good layered tip will make a difference.


Richard
 
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Thanks. I'm hoping to get my hands on a few shafts to try out. I'm not a novice but I'm relatively new to the equipment thing, hoping the right tools can get my game to the next level.
 
Thanks. I'm hoping to get my hands on a few shafts to try out. I'm not a novice but I'm relatively new to the equipment thing, hoping the right tools can get my game to the next level.

Someone once told me that I should learn to play with the most simplest of equipment (standard cue, standard tip) before I venture off into the high tech pool cue world. I know now that statement is only partially correct.... meaning learn the correct fundamentals to begin with, proper stance, proper stroke techniques, proper aim alignment, and learn as much as you can about the cause and effects of using english on the cue ball. Once you have a good handle on those.... and only then do you start experimenting with the equipment. Mostly so you have some experience to judge one cue from another or shaft or tip. I suggest start with a different tips first and find the one that does what you want it to do, then move on to a shaft. Usually jumping straight to a shaft changes to many factors for you to correctly fine tune what your trying to find. Ask some local players or friends that use other equipment if you can shoot a few games with their cues (chances are, close friends are the only one that will let you do this) or check out some billiard expos where the manufactures let you try their equipment. Eventually you will know down to balance point of your cue whats right for you. Good luck on your venture.

Richard
 
My experience has been a bit different. When I moved from the standard shaft I went straight to the OB-1 after a while I realized that I wasn't really ready for all the action that it could give. I moved to a i2 and found it to be a bit easier to control and I grew to really like the taper very quickly. I also used a Moori medium tip but have since grown to like the Kamui Super Soft tips. I can definitely recommend the i2 over the OB-1 for an intermediate players like me, unless you have really gotten your speed control and stroke down.

I have a silly drill that I spend a lot of practice time on which tells me if I'm stroking well or not. Just put the object ball two diamonds away from a corner pocket and the Cue Ball on the opposite side of the table and draw the cue back to the rail (full table draw). That particular exercise for me is a great way to tell you if you are stroking right and also is a good way to test equipment. If you can't get your stroke in order then I'd stay away from a shaft with a lot of action or in particular a shaft with a small diameter tip because you're probably not getting a consistent hit on the cue anyway.

Of course I suppose you could argue that getting a predator, tiger or ob-2 shaft with a really small diameter will force you to eventually get it right, but I'd say be prepared to suffer for a while in the process.
 
Then perhaps you could argue that any shaft will feel fine to you and will have minimal effect on how you play. The amount of deflection of all the performance shafts have been widely published so it's down to how it feels to you. This is how I evaluate it, how would you?
 
I have a an I2 shaft on my McDermott and it gives me a lot more cue ball control than the standard shaft. Maybe some of it is due to the Moori medium tip vs the standard triangle. I am a lot more accurate with it also to the point it has became my full time playing cue. It took me some time to get used to the feel and the sound and I've tried switching to others like the Mezz with a wd700, but I keep coming back to the I2 on my McDermott because it I rarely choke shots when the game is on the line with it.
 
New I-2 shaft

I just got mine yesterday and played with it for about an hour.:D This shaft is a bit longer (ordered 31" as I was holding the butt before..) I must say while still getting accustom to the length the "hit" seems very solid.

The sound is a bit different (with the grafhite core i guess) but not bad at all (almost like a VERY hard tip would sound). I noticed reduced deflection then the standard mcdermott standard all wood shaft. Very simular (deflection) to my OB2 (30" length) I have for my Lucasi (a little softer hit, but not very forgiving on long shots..).

So far, I like the "feel" (of course this is subjective) of the I-2 over the OB2. I'll let you know if this changes as I use this shaft daily!
 
I have an I-2 and an I-3 that came with the new McDermott cue I just bought. I have played with predators and OB 1-2 and find the I-shafts to be on the same level as both of them. When I switched to the I-2 about 2 years ago I noticed a gain in spin and control also deflection rate was no different then the predator or OB shafts. I would recommend I-shafts to anyone. When it comes to low deflection shafts its a feel thing. Some people like one over the other. I'm not sure what the other poster was talking about with a funny sound on the hit. My personal opinion is that the new I-shafts are a step up from what predator and OB currently offer. They cost a little more because of technology and engineering McDermott put into them. No other low deflection shaft is built like them. Compared to the others they really are cutting edge in the billiards industry. I think they are worth it. I'm sure others will disagree. You just have to research for yourself and try some different shafts to find what fits your style. JMO
 
I have an I-2 and an I-3 that came with the new McDermott cue I just bought. I have played with predators and OB 1-2 and find the I-shafts to be on the same level as both of them. When I switched to the I-2 about 2 years ago I noticed a gain in spin and control also deflection rate was no different then the predator or OB shafts. I would recommend I-shafts to anyone. When it comes to low deflection shafts its a feel thing. Some people like one over the other. I'm not sure what the other poster was talking about with a funny sound on the hit. My personal opinion is that the new I-shafts are a step up from what predator and OB currently offer. They cost a little more because of technology and engineering McDermott put into them. No other low deflection shaft is built like them. Compared to the others they really are cutting edge in the billiards industry. I think they are worth it. I'm sure others will disagree. You just have to research for yourself and try some different shafts to find what fits your style. JMO

Are you kidding me man?? (They cost a little more because of technology and engineering McDermott put into them) They are basically the same exact thing. Its a gimmick just like the OB "split and fall apart" 1&2s JUNK! And predators "hollow" JUNK! A true player can shoot with a maple shaft and compensate for deflection just fine. It just proves some people have more money then brains!
 
Are you kidding me man?? (They cost a little more because of technology and engineering McDermott put into them) They are basically the same exact thing. Its a gimmick just like the OB "split and fall apart" 1&2s JUNK! And predators "hollow" JUNK! A true player can shoot with a maple shaft and compensate for deflection just fine. It just proves some people have more money then brains!

Do some research junkie. They are not even close to being the same thing.
1) The OB shafts are wood layers laminated and cut into pie shaped pieces then glued together to make one shaft for radial consistency and a small wood ferrule. (less end mass)
2)A predator has a hollow section in front of the ferrule to decrease deflection as well as a smaller ferrule.(less end mass) The older models had foam or something up front for the same purpose.
3) The I-shafts are carbon fiber technology and composite fibers to achieve radial consistency and low deflection. They also have an even smaller ferrule (less end mass) then the OB or Predators.

Now you tell me how these 3 shafts are the same?Yes they all achieve the same goal LESS DEFLECTION through less end mass and radial consistency. But production wise they could not be more different. IMO McDermott went further with technology and engineering to make something totality new.
 
About 2)... I have a recent 314² shaft, it still has foam in there. I only read about some old models being truely hollow. The second gen shafts all have foam... So you need to review that statement.

I think from what you all said the truth is in the middle somewhere. I mean Johnny Archer plays with no-tech maple shafts. He calls low deflection bull. Then people like Ralph Souquet rely on the technology being able to put "more spin" without the cueball deviating as much as it would have. john Schmidt shot his 400+ with an OB1 shaft.... I think you can only know what's good for you, if you head over to a dealer and actually test several shafts and pick one that you feel is right for you. The indian not the arrow story is one way to look at it but alot of players need something that boosts their mentality and belief in equipment. Only if you believe a 100% in your equipment, can you play your fullest with it. Another example is Earl Strickland claiming only Mike's shafts allow him to play his style of play...

Test and pick one. Nowadays all top brands and top custom cue builders offer excellent warranties, can't go wrong.
 
all the predator shafts are hollow. the foam is just a short plug at the top of the bore to keep debris from getting trapped in there during the manufacturing process.
 
Not that short though... I mean depends on what's short but I can conform my shaft had foam about 10 inches down from the top. I didn't check futher even.
 
I think the LD laminated craze is driven by the inability to obtain quality shaft wood these days. Not that some of the ideas coming out are pretty well thought out and have their following. As far as laminated shafts go, I think Mike Lambros has the best I have hit, bar none.

Nothing can replace time on the table refining your cueing skills. I often think of the fishing lure saying about the lure being made to catch the fisherman or the fish?

I think billiards is seeing its fair share of fishing lures these days.
 
Not that short though... I mean depends on what's short but I can conform my shaft had foam about 10 inches down from the top. I didn't check futher even.

that's quite odd....are you sure about this? one, the bore on a pred only goes down about 6 inches, below that is solid wood. the foam plug is like 1/4"-1/2" maybe, just a cap really.
 
Yes I'm very sure about that. But I have noticed different qualities among Predator shafts. I bought them from the official Holland dealer and well on both shafts, the ferrules were even made of different materials. One shaft is about a year old and the other is a tad older, close to 2. But both are 314²'s.
I should have taken a pic when having it tooled on. I thought the long foam was standard. I remember my cuemaker telling me they fill the entire shaft with foam because it was that much.
 
I really wish that someone could actually show me this foam filling in a Predator shaft.
I've read post after post of the claim yet no one can show me a pic.
I get pretty tired of people running their abba-dabba but not being able to substantiate.
ie
"My buddy's Predator shaft split wide open from end to end and it was filled with blue foam".
Really??? Did anyone think to take a pic??? That's where they get defensive.
"Are you calling my buddy a liar?" No, not yet, but without evidence it's just hearsay.
Grossly misguided hearsay to boot.

I can take this position because I've built more than 1,000 Predator shafts.
I work on Predator shafts everyday and have been for more than 10 yrs.
I do ALL of the custom work for the largest Predator dealer in the world.
The abba-dabba is BS. Prove me wrong. Show me a pic.
Save the abba-dabba for your girlfriend. She may buy it but I don't and nor should anyone else.
 
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