You might want to get a precision ground and hardened Thompson rod 3/4" x 30" with precision centers for adjusting your lathe with accuracy.
metal rings
- Thread starter mortuarymike-nv
- Start date
Stainless steel rings? Nickel/silver is much easier to work with. SS LOVES to work harden if not cut with hard/sharp tools.
Also, what do you expect from those "tools" you purchased for 2.50 each? They are for THREADING steel, not turning. If you are trying to turn a SS ring by feeding into it with ANY tool, instead of taking passes, you will have problems. Heat is your enemy in more ways than one.
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Maybe, but he said washer and sterling should be pretty easy to cut. Although I've never tried to cut with the tools he has...
rings
Yup so far its been a real pain working with ss rings.
(Heat,) everything is good right up to the point of the ring starts to warm up................
I will pre cut my rings before they are glued in.
I think that is my best bet.
Thank you
MMike
Yup so far its been a real pain working with ss rings.
(Heat,) everything is good right up to the point of the ring starts to warm up................
I will pre cut my rings before they are glued in.
I think that is my best bet.
Thank you
MMike
If you're talking about "SS" meaning Stainless Steel, BINGO, there's your problem. Most cuemakers use aluminum, or silver rings when they want that sparkle & shine. Stainless is just too hard to use for rings for the reasons you've already found. I know of no one using stainless steel rings though I must admit in my early years I did try!
Sherm
the hard way
Thank you
I am just learning,
Question how do you stop the aluminum tarnish from transferring into the other woods.
example aluminum ring next to bem.
Are you cutting and sanding the rings and wood at the same time?
Or do you not cut the rings only the wood to the rings.?
How can I make sure that my rings don't pop. ?
two of my current problems are maple next to any dark colored wood. saw bust from the ebony gets into the maple grain.
And metal rings:frown:
Thanks for all the advise guys,
MMike
Thank you
I am just learning,
Question how do you stop the aluminum tarnish from transferring into the other woods.
example aluminum ring next to bem.
Are you cutting and sanding the rings and wood at the same time?
Or do you not cut the rings only the wood to the rings.?
How can I make sure that my rings don't pop. ?
two of my current problems are maple next to any dark colored wood. saw bust from the ebony gets into the maple grain.
And metal rings:frown:
Thanks for all the advise guys,
MMike
I'd use SS rings instead of aluminum. Next, seal the wood next to the ring with epoxy BEFORE you start sanding. Compressed air is also helpful. Blow the dust BEFORE you apply any sealer after sanding.
I cut everything at the same time. I sand everything at the same time.
You can't but you can take steps to prevent it. Scuff the rings prior to assembly and gluing. Seal the surrounding wood with epoxy or, as mentioned, sandwich the metal between phenolic, when possible. The metal is not what's moving. The wood around it is. Make sure you wood is seasoned. Take more time between turns. Minimize the movement and you minimize the "popping."