Mixing Epoxy

I use an old pencil to mix. No bubbles and they are cheap. Just wipe off after you are done and it is already sealed for the next time. I use West sys. And even the 205 stuff takes a long time to cure. It does get hot though in bigger batches.
 
Bubbles in Clearcoat

I had the same problem with Chris's Cue Cote. I don't use it anymore, but when I did I found that heating it was the best method for removing the bubbles.

I found an old Mr. Coffee at a Thrift Store for $2.00 and removed the brewing portion (leaving just a hot plate). I put a shallow metal pan with some water on the hot plate and mixed the Cue Cote in a plastic cup placed in the hot water. This warmed it as I was mixing and as I applied it. This made the mixture thinner and almost eliminated the bubbles.
 
Cue Crazy said:
Yeah your probably Right My friend, But I must have missed the vote on that one:D Easy for You maybe :p , but I'm sure It wasn't always that way;)
I do love Your finish work, from what I've seen I was Impressed, It's hard for me to imagine that doesn't come without atleast some amount of hard work, even after having your methods mastered, as you probably do By now. :)
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I haven't mastered anything but all the info I use on sealing cues came from right here on this forum. West system 207. It's the nuts. Depending on the characteristics of the wood it may take a couple of coats, maybe even three.
 
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Cue Crazy said:
How do Ya like the finish Cure? I have a brand new kit of the stuff, but have never tried It.


I had a hardener bottle of the sys 3 melt down one time in the original bottle before even being mixed. yeah I'm suprised but these little plastic cups don't melt down like I would think they might. The stuff does get hot when the reaction takes place, and seems like these cups would melt. Atleast epoxy doesn't smoke up and burn the eyes like CA though.:eek:

Thanks for the ideas, I'm open to testing anything that is plausable, and that seems like it may be, although I may have to buy a cheapo microwave just for that kind of stuff, or I might get My tail end skinned for using the one we cook food in. My ears are hurtin just thinking about It.:D
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The Finish cure is good, I have used it as the only finish on 2 cues I did for friends, it doesn't seem to buff as nicely unless you wait about a week after sanding smooth. I found if my shop is to cool, I have to turn the heat on for a couple hours before using. It takes about 3-4hrs for the first coat to dry, depending on the temp, and how thick you put it on. The next couple coats usually dry in less time, but the last batch I put in the microwave alittle to long and it seems to have affected the ability to setup. I'm actually going to try the System 3 clear coat this weekend on a buddy's cue. ANY tips?
Dave
 
These things are the nuts. The smaller size makes them ideal for small batches, and for applying epoxy to the inside of small holes. I got a whole case of them for dirt cheap.
 

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I use a wooden kitchen match stick and throw away plastic shot glasses. I've been using the same match stick for at least a year and it takes about 4-6 mos. for the excess epoxy to fill the shot glass and I have to throw it away. Talk about low cost consumables.

With regards to the epoxy air bubbles, a fellow CM told me one time about a buddy of his that had the same concern. He somehow put the mixed compound in a vacuum to get rid of the air.

I'd be very careful with the heat, it's totally unpredictable. Your mix can kick real hard, real quick, maybe before you're half way done. Then you've just got a mess.
 
First off, I want to say that I sure apprieitiate everyone's responses.:)

I did figure it out, and indeed what Jim mentioned was one of the things I forgot from the last batch, and the lamp did work, but I also took My time mixing really slow to keep them to a minimum in the first place. After mixing though there were still some bubbles left, but the lamp drew them to the top so they could escape. It did get hot quick though, so I didn't leave it under the light for long, just enough to work it's magic.
The other thing that totally slipped My mind but popped back, was I forgot to squeegie the first 2 cues in this batch, so I'm gonna have fun sanding those 2. Luckily I remembered that on the third cue, cause it does make a difference, although will require a second coat. The maple really seemed to suck the epoxy up this way, but the cotes go on much better, and I can't believe I let this stuff slip My mind. I guess atleast I remembered to preseal the areas that could bleed over while applying the epoxy, or I would have a real mess to deal with.:eek:

Thanks again guys, also thanks for not being too critical of Me, because It's not like this is the first time I've done this LOL, so I really had no excuse except for a bad memory.:D The last batch I sealed was over six months ago, and that's not a really long time, so I guess I need to start writing things down.

Anyway all is well, and I'm back on the road again. if only I could get a break from repair work, then maybe I could finish these up. Greg
 
Michael Webb said:
I haven't mastered anything but all the info I use on sealing cues came from right here on this forum. West system 207. It's the nuts. Depending on the characteristics of the wood it may take a couple of coats, maybe even three.
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Haven't mastered anything Huh:rolleyes: , sounds like Your just being humble to me.:D , but i can't fault ya for that.:) yeah I do need to switch to west since everyone seems to be so sold on It, so the next epoxy I get will probably be that. The way I used the sys 3 would require atleast a second cote too.
 
Dave38 said:
The Finish cure is good, I have used it as the only finish on 2 cues I did for friends, it doesn't seem to buff as nicely unless you wait about a week after sanding smooth. I found if my shop is to cool, I have to turn the heat on for a couple hours before using. It takes about 3-4hrs for the first coat to dry, depending on the temp, and how thick you put it on. The next couple coats usually dry in less time, but the last batch I put in the microwave alittle to long and it seems to have affected the ability to setup. I'm actually going to try the System 3 clear coat this weekend on a buddy's cue. ANY tips?
Dave
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Dave, I wish I could help, but I have never had any luck buffing epoxy out, I just use it as a grain filler and base coat, then spray clear over that after I have sanded and leveled out. I do let it cure for atleast a week or more though, because it sands out much better, but i have no idea how to buff it out completely clear again like it looks when You first apply it to a cue. I could get It close, but unfortunately never good enough that I was willing to use It as a top cote, so I quit trying and just used It as a base.
 
Cue Crazy said:
Haven't mastered anything Huh:rolleyes: , sounds like Your just being humble to me.:D , but i can't fault ya for that.:) yeah I do need to switch to west since everyone seems to be so sold on It, so the next epoxy I get will probably be that. The way I used the sys 3 would require atleast a second cote too.
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I am an acting member, shit, I might even be on the board of the fukarewe tribe. But I do believe in the 207 for sealing. It just works.
 
Michael Webb said:
I am an acting member, shit, I might even be on the board of the fukarewe tribe. But I do believe in the 207 for sealing. It just works.
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LOL I could be the Chief/tribe elder of that tribe, but that's just fine with me. If I was any big name in this, I dought i could keep up with the amount of work anyhow, so I don't mind holding on to My rookie status for many more moons to come;)

BTW, how long does the west stay stable for? That stuff is kind of expensive, and want to make sure I don't get more then I can use up before It goes bad on Me. Is the hardener the only part you have to really worry about with that?

Thanks Greg
 
I have had a gallon of resin and quart of hardner in the shop for a year and counting with pumps in and it is still good.
 
mixing sticks

I am using West System mixing sticks. Cost a lot more than other options, But they are totally reuseable many , many times. Epoxy does not stick to them. Let it dry and it peels right off.
West 804 mixing sticks part # 804-8
 
RocketQ said:
I have had a gallon of resin and quart of hardner in the shop for a year and counting with pumps in and it is still good.
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Thanks, The reason I ask John is cause I'm wondering how long a gallon of the resin would keep for. I don't mind forking out the extra dough for the gallon up front if It will keep for 2-3 years, and then just buy the hardener in pints or quarts as I need it. That sounds pretty good for the hardner to hold up for a year, especially with the pumps in. Seems like the resin would keep even longer so maybe I would be good to go that way. I guess there are another hardener or 2 I could get some use out of for other things too, and they may help use the gallon up quicker.
 
Cue Crazy said:
Thanks, The reason I ask John is cause I'm wondering how long a gallon of the resin would keep for. I don't mind forking out the extra dough for the gallon up front if It will keep for 2-3 years, and then just buy the hardener in pints or quarts as I need it. That sounds pretty good for the hardner to hold up for a year, especially with the pumps in. Seems like the resin would keep even longer so maybe I would be good to go that way. I guess there are another hardener or 2 I could get some use out of for other things too, and they may help use the gallon up quicker.
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On there web-site they state that their epoxies have an unlimited shelf life and never go bad. They state that the hardener will darken with age but that it doesn't affect it's strength. This may be a concern for the finish hardener but if is fine for construction.

Dick
 
Cue Crazy said:
Thanks, The reason I ask John is cause I'm wondering how long a gallon of the resin would keep for. I don't mind forking out the extra dough for the gallon up front if It will keep for 2-3 years, and then just buy the hardener in pints or quarts as I need it. That sounds pretty good for the hardner to hold up for a year, especially with the pumps in. Seems like the resin would keep even longer so maybe I would be good to go that way. I guess there are another hardener or 2 I could get some use out of for other things too, and they may help use the gallon up quicker.
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sort of related subject
several months ago i put on a post about thinning epoxy as a sealer
i can't remember who said it, but they mentioned using laquer thinner or mek
and as dickie mentioned, i heat it up before mixing , with a blow dryer
a lot easier to work with
if i want it thinner i'll use just a little laquer thinner mixed in
seems like it gives a little more working time also
 
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