Mods to my Bludworth table saw machine

JC

JC

Coos Cues
So I finally got around to what I've been thinking about since the day I laid eyes on this thing and the results are great. I got rid of the taper bar and moved the x axis stepper to the saw blade height screw on the saw. This removes all the play and flex of the bar, the hinges and roller and the screw box mechanism and makes moving the head stock to different lengths two instead of 4 screws. It's also more accurate because of the geometrical problems of moving the wood up and down on a hinge. The saw rack and pinion has about .008" of backlash which Mach 3 deals with nicely so it's no issue. And I didn't have to change any of my programs to run it. It was worth the bother. It still is what it is with the plastic sliding blocks on scrap yard aluminum angle material. I think Blud may have built some much more accurate equipment if the array of cheap linear rails, ball screws and such had been available in his time. Or maybe not, the ace hardware store is just across the street after all.

001 [800x600].JPG

002 [800x600].JPG

009 [800x600].JPG

008 [800x600].JPG

003 [800x600].JPG

JC
 
JC said:
So I finally got around to what I've been thinking about since the day I laid eyes on this thing and the results are great. I got rid of the taper bar and moved the x axis stepper to the saw blade height screw on the saw. This removes all the play and flex of the bar, the hinges and roller and the screw box mechanism and makes moving the head stock to different lengths two instead of 4 screws. It's also more accurate because of the geometrical problems of moving the wood up and down on a hinge. The saw rack and pinion has about .008" of backlash which Mach 3 deals with nicely so it's no issue. And I didn't have to change any of my programs to run it. It was worth the bother. It still is what it is with the plastic sliding blocks on scrap yard aluminum angle material. I think Blud may have built some much more accurate equipment if the array of cheap linear rails, ball screws and such had been available in his time. Or maybe not, the ace hardware store is just across the street after all.

View attachment 425378

View attachment 425379



View attachment 425380

View attachment 425381

View attachment 425382

JC
Click to expand...

nice solution to your problems.
 
Kim Bye said:
What's the runout of that saw blade?
Click to expand...

The spindle on the saw has no play that you can measure or feel in any direction and with the ribbed belt it runs very smoothly. I had the blade ground by a local sharpener to within .001. I think it's running as tight as one can hope for with this kind of setup. I have indicated the teeth in various spots and can't find a variance over .001. By holding the live center with a rubber band and lubing the center I eliminate that moving part that Blud didn't get quite right. Plus his sloppy hinges are out of the equation now too.

The biggest remaining problem is with the plastic sliders and the aluminum frame. Half way down the slide I get about .004 dip. There is a software solution to this but it's a pain. Flat surfaces would be preferable. I am going to build my own machine using linear rails soon. I will mount the tail stock and head stock to the rail bearing blocks and use a lead screw between them with a hand wheel to move the distance between centers for different length wood. I am looking for a suitable saw for cheap to start with and will build it right to it permanently. Should be a fun project. Something like this will replace that gaudy aluminum block/frame assembly for starters. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-X-SBR20-2...447592?hash=item3d0c2f8ba8:g:xmMAAOSwPcVVtiX0

I think I can build the entire thing including electronics for under a grand.

JC
 
I think you're better off just using a good linear actuator .
Fixes that overhang problems.

Blud knew this so he redesigned that machine.
Last one I saw was he had a full table with liner bearings sandwiching the blade.
Looked a lot better.

I'm sure glad I didn't fork-out some 3K when he was peddling that cnc saw machine .
Everyone who got it had headaches .
 
JoeyInCali said:
I think you're better off just using a good linear actuator .
Fixes that overhang problems.

Blud knew this so he redesigned that machine.
Last one I saw was he had a full table with liner bearings sandwiching the blade.
Looked a lot better.

I'm sure glad I didn't fork-out some 3K when he was peddling that cnc saw machine .
Everyone who got it had headaches .
Click to expand...

Anyone have photos of it?

As I have said before, I took the lid off of the crate he sent it to me in and inspected the thing. Not only was it a beast but it was worn out in every way possible in spite of being represented as almost new. I screwed the lid back on and shipped it back to him asking for my money back less what he spent to ship it to me. He insulted and belittled me and refused to refund. I finally had to pay for him to ship it to me again or lose it all. He is a crooked lying thief and I will keep saying it because it's true. Yes, dealing with him gave me a headache and I have been trying to salvage the thing ever since. He is just a level up from Forney.


JC
 
Last edited:
I like the idea of raising and lowering the blade. I struggled with that designed and had it going OKAY, but wasn't ideal. It can be pretty finicky. Leon loves his and didn't have the issues I had, but he bought his from Scruggs and I think it was all dialed in already.

It just takes up SO MUCH ROOM.
 
pescadoman said:
I like the idea of raising and lowering the blade. I struggled with that designed and had it going OKAY, but wasn't ideal. It can be pretty finicky. Leon loves his and didn't have the issues I had, but he bought his from Scruggs and I think it was all dialed in already.

It just takes up SO MUCH ROOM.
Click to expand...

The biggest difference I find is that with the fixed spindle height once you dial in your G codes compensating for whatever you need to for the sled irregularities at difference lengths you can come back and not have to fiddle with it again and again. For instance I can move the head stock to 30 inches and throw a butt on it and it will repeat being .400 difference end to end no matter what else I have done in the mean while. With the old setup, once you change blade height for any reason and you come back to something else you have to screw around to dial in all over again for whatever you're doing next. This was a big time waster. It's still a POS but it's better.

PS: I have lots of room so it doesn't impose much

JC
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top