moisture meter

I got a cheap one several years ago and it too was worthless. I am lucky here in denver as it is a natural dehimidafier. If anything wood can dry too fast. I never replaced my meter with a better quality one because everything dries so quick here and I let my wood sit so long before using it. I remember living in Georgia, That was another story when it came to drying wood. Chris.
 
Keep in mind, that the wood may be at 5% or a little more from the guy who processed it, but when you get it it could be 8 or 9%, Moister meters are ok, but, wait till it's been air dryed for several month's, having all the wood in the same room, doesn't mean it will all be at the same moisster content, close to a door, or next to the air-conditioner, or back in a corner, all will not have the same moister. Meters are ok, but most wil not read the same, but use only one meter, and only one, then you have a good bench mark to go by,...
blud
 
got the meter yesterday
my left arm reads 34% :D
been real sick for a few days, so i'll check some wood with it later and get back to everyone
 
The best and most accurate way for determining when wood is ready for further processing is with an accurate scale. Weigh each piece when it arrives and then every month or two or three there after. When the weight ceases to decrease that's as dry as it's going to get in your environment.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
The best and most accurate way for determining when wood is ready for further processing is with an accurate scale. Weigh each piece when it arrives and then every month or two or three there after. When the weight ceases to decrease that's as dry as it's going to get in your environment.

Dick
Click to expand...
tap tap tap
 
rhncue said:
The best and most accurate way for determining when wood is ready for further processing is with an accurate scale. Weigh each piece when it arrives and then every month or two or three there after. When the weight ceases to decrease that's as dry as it's going to get in your environment.

Dick
Click to expand...
do you do this after all wax is off , if any, and after turned to round???????
 
BHQ said:
do you do this after all wax is off , if any, and after turned to round???????
Click to expand...

All depends on what type of wood. When I receive boards or turning squares I remove most of the sealer from the sides of the wood and cut into turning squares. I usually leave the ends sealed. If it's easier to work with woods (Maples, Lacewood, Bloodwood and such) I remove the sealer from the ends also. I seldom turn round for at least a year after arriving in my shop. I've still got a lot of ebony I bought in 1991 that I haven't got around to turning round or re-sawing for inlays. Usually I'll use my meter to check one piece of each type of hard wood when it arrives to get a good idea of where I stand. I gave around 300.00 for my meter around 6 or seven years ago. When it came there was a list of different types of woods and their corresponding settings. On the meter there are 20 different setting positions. The bad thing was that almost all of the woods listed were domestic woods which, of coarse, I seldom use. I contacted Ligomat and they sent me a sheet with probably 50 or 75 listings of different exotic woods. Having the correct setting is very important to get a true reading. I've checked boards with the correct setting and then changed to a different setting and the moisture reading may change as much as 15 to 20%.

Dick
 
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