Moori Tip maintenance

Moori re-surfacing....

Bluey2King said:
the proper way to maintain my Moori med tip.....

I have been using the "Ultimate Tip Tool" putting it on the floor placing my tip in the dime dent and rubbing my hands back and forth on the shaft kinda like I was starting a fire but not so fast.

I was talking to a guy and he said that you should never need to do anything to a Moori besides use a pick tool on it.
I've been using a Moori Slow tip for years and I don't experience any mushrooming, but I don't hit shots real hard either. The proper way to re-surface a Moori is with a tip pick like your friend suggested.

Forget the starting a fire method you refer to because you're only grinding your tip away and it's not necessary.

I use a small rough surface file and I hold the file in my hand and my cue in the other with the butt of the cue on the floor and I press the edge of my tip (from the center out to the edge) against the file and I carefully turn or roll the cue until the tip has turned 360 degrees against the file. This produces a rough surface without removing any leather and it holds chalk very well.

James
 
SCCues said:
I've been using a Moori Slow tip for years and I don't experience any mushrooming, but I don't hit shots real hard either. The proper way to re-surface a Moori is with a tip pick like your friend suggested.

Forget the starting a fire method you refer to because you're only grinding your tip away and it's not necessary.

I use a small rough surface file and I hold the file in my hand and my cue in the other with the butt of the cue on the floor and I press the edge of my tip (from the center out to the edge) against the file and I carefully turn or roll the cue until the tip has turned 360 degrees against the file. This produces a rough surface without removing any leather and it holds chalk very well.

James

There are numerous tip maintenance methods recommended by various experienced authorities and so I don't believe there is any one "proper" method.

The "start a fire" procedure mentioned is not primarily for roughing the surface...although it certainly does. Rather, it is primarily to maintain a dime or nickel tip radius which gets flattened out some due to tip-to-ball compression.

The surface maintenance feature of the Ultimate tool is very much like the file that you use...the difference being that it is part of the small tool which has two other functions...shaping and burnishing.

Very compact and convenient and does an excellent job.

But I agree with you and Patrick that there is nothing at all wrong with using a pik tool...as long as it is used without excessive pressure.
Regards,
Jim
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Well, I use a Tip Pik on a layered tip at least once every time I play or practice. That amounts to literally thousands of times on dozens of layered tips - and never a problem of any kind. Guess "very likely" is different for different people.

pj
chgo

That or you're just special. :cool: Glad you've never had any problems with your method.
 
Bluey2King said:
What is the proper way to maintain my Moori med tip? I have been using the "Ultimate Tip Tool" putting it on the floor placing my tip in the dime dent and rubbing my hands back and forth on the shaft kinda like I was starting a fire but not so fast. Also it does mushroom a little bit and I carefuly sand that and use the "V" part of the tool to give it a nice firm smooth finish.

I was talking to a guy and he said that you should never need to do anything to a Moori besides use a pick tool on it.

Any recomandations?
Thanks


I use a Moori soft and *occasionally* scuff with a tip tool like you.

I have never had mushrooming on any of my Moori tips after about 4 years.
.
 
Moori med

i recently purchased a shaft and was told it had a Moori Medium tip. after the first chalking attempt i noticed that the end of the tip seemed a little flat and did not seem to be taking any chalk at all. I used a multi tip tool I have that has a 3 or 4 inch length of half moon shaped metal with sand paper in it. I'm thinking I need hold tip in one hand with but on ground, tool in other hand and use the sand paper at abour a 45' angle to the tip and spin stick to achieve more of a radius on the tip allowing chalk to "reach" center of the tip.

http://www.cheapcues.com/Tip_Tools_Pool_Accessories_3-way_tool.asp

I dont know what the two top circles on this tool are for. I like the "pic" portion of the tool because the spikes do not penetrate, but with a light tapping achieve the roughing you look for.
The flip side of the tool you cant see in the picture does have the circular bowl with sand paper in it for the shaping also.
 
What is the proper way to maintain my Moori med tip? I have been using the "Ultimate Tip Tool" putting it on the floor placing my tip in the dime dent and rubbing my hands back and forth on the shaft kinda like I was starting a fire but not so fast. Also it does mushroom a little bit and I carefuly sand that and use the "V" part of the tool to give it a nice firm smooth finish.

I was talking to a guy and he said that you should never need to do anything to a Moori besides use a pick tool on it.

Any recomandations?
Thanks

I have been using Moori tips for 15 years now. If your Moori tip mushrooms, IMHO, you must have a fake Moori tip.

People like Patrick who think they have to use a tip pic every time they play with a Moori are a little anal IMO.

A good layered tip will conform to your style of play. You should never have to shave the tip for ANY reason, unless it is a fake tip.

If you have a real Moori and miscue a lot, don't think you need to sand the tip. You need to reshape your pool game.

I know lots of people who never have to do ANYTHING to their Moori tip.
 
I've read this thread and there are many conflicting opinions. I've played with a Moori soft tip for about 17 months now and have experienced no mushrooming at all. The only tool I use, and that is very seldom and very gently, is a Williard dime shaper. I shoot with a McDermott I-3 shaft and it has a 11.75mm tip diameter. A while back I played with a Moori medium tip and did see some mushrooming after a month or two. Trimmed it back with a razor blade and it never mushroomed after that. On most shots I use a soft stroke and only hit the cue with some speed when I really have to move the cue ball a lot. Perhaps that has something to do with it. This has been my experience and it does conflict too with several other posts in this thread. Good luck it figuring it out.
 
I've read this thread and there are many conflicting opinions. I've played with a Moori soft tip for about 17 months now and have experienced no mushrooming at all. The only tool I use, and that is very seldom and very gently, is a Williard dime shaper. I shoot with a McDermott I-3 shaft and it has a 11.75mm tip diameter. A while back I played with a Moori medium tip and did see some mushrooming after a month or two. Trimmed it back with a razor blade and it never mushroomed after that. On most shots I use a soft stroke and only hit the cue with some speed when I really have to move the cue ball a lot. Perhaps that has something to do with it. This has been my experience and it does conflict too with several other posts in this thread. Good luck it figuring it out.

the shaft I'm reffering to is an I3 with a Moori (med i think) tip.
 
I have two friends that bought OB shafts over two and half years ago and neither one does anything to their tip and they still have the original tip. One knows his is a moori soft and he also, breaks with it. The other doesn't know which tip he has but both have maintained their shape. One very rarely, uses a prik and the other also, very rarely, rolls it his on a tapper.

I have tried moori and didn't have any better luck with them then I do with a triangle. They all last me about 8 months playing 5-6 times aweek. None of mine will keep the radius whether it be a dime or nickle. It has flattened after a couple of nights and needs reshaping. My tool is the bowtie.

Whats the deal?
 
I have tried moori and didn't have any better luck with them then I do with a triangle. They all last me about 8 months playing 5-6 times aweek. None of mine will keep the radius whether it be a dime or nickle. It has flattened after a couple of nights and needs reshaping. My tool is the bowtie.

Whats the deal?

forgive the stupid questions, but with your bowtie tool, your using the bowl to reshape, or different parts of the tool?
 
What is the proper way to maintain my Moori med tip? I have been using the "Ultimate Tip Tool" putting it on the floor placing my tip in the dime dent and rubbing my hands back and forth on the shaft kinda like I was starting a fire but not so fast. Also it does mushroom a little bit and I carefuly sand that and use the "V" part of the tool to give it a nice firm smooth finish.

I was talking to a guy and he said that you should never need to do anything to a Moori besides use a pick tool on it.

Any recomandations?
Thanks


First Recommendation would be to TOSS AWAY your ULTIMATE TOOL, as it is like a Swiss Army Knife. Doing many things, NONE WELL. I have seen the Ultimate Tip Tools do real damage in Heavy Hands.

In all honestly all you need is 220 Sandpaper, and 600 Sandpaper. The 220 for Edges/Sides, and the 600 to use on the Crown of the TIP (PRN) aka as needed. Sandpaper breaks the surface of a Tip Clogged with CHALK, and is CHEAP!

As for Mushroom an NEW Dollar Bill or the Porper Mushroom Tool/Burnisher will remove your Mushroom. The Porper Tool is nothing for the a “V” SHAPE TUBE that does a great job.

Need to do a New Dime Shape, nothing is better in a Hand Tool than the Old Willard, and again you can do the same thing with 220 Sandpaper.

BTW the reason you are loosing your Dime Shape is the way you play, as you are doing a lot of Center Ball Hits, so TIP Reshape themselves on your playing style.

So get a Willard, Porper Muchroom tool, and 220 & 600 Sandpaper, and you have what you need.

BTW those Need Tip Picks can cause a Layered Tip Premature Failure, causing layers to POP OFF.
 
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