Most Accurate Subrail Angle

TableTek said:
That set of rails are the ones I talked to you about yesterday, with Centenial cushions and a 1.380 nose height from factory. The rail height was pretty uniform 1.445-1.460 through the set. After adding a .030 poplar shim on the staple recess, I then added a full poplar shim under the entire rail planed down to 0.230 prior. With the Diamond Black cushions I held the 2" from the nose to veneer, and 1.440 nose height with the 1.680 subrail height. I then used my new Bosch door planer to recut the staple clearances... Should play exceptionally well, installs in Washington DC tomorrow afternoon. I was going to use the table saw at first, but one rail was crowned about 1/4" so I used my fixture. I will make a thread on this job shortly. The below pic is before glue/clamping to check hole clearances...
View attachment 126095
Click to expand...

You sure do take the hard way to get somewhere:D Since the top of the rails are flat, I'd have turned the rails upside down and set them in a jig so that the planner won't double cut the ends, then ran them though a planner to completely flatten the bottom of the rails, then added new wood, thicker than needed, then ran them through the planner again and taken them down to the exact thickness I wanted, then re-dado the cloth relief dado. It would have been more simple....and faster;)

Glen
 
..example

There is a example of what I was talking about in the SBE thread..on how well light can shine on a prism when viewed the right way..
Ya Gotta see the light first then u find the true colors
-
Rob.M
 
And for the pundits, I chose not to use a planer on the rails for a reason. I filled the staple dado with 0.30 and planed the final .230 pieces together so I would not have to worry about any issues putting the whole rail through. Rails turned out great, and it took less time than you would think (4hrs labor from striping to recover, plus glue dry time of course). Not something I would choose to do often, but for someone that appreciates the work I will gladly take the time. In some cases the planer would be best, but the cover plate would have to come out and I doubt the planer would save any time once removing and replacing the floating nut plates.

And for the prism comment.... If you know what wavelength you are looking for, you don't need the prism at all.
 
TableTek said:
And for the pundits, I chose not to use a planer on the rails for a reason. I filled the staple dado with 0.30 and planed the final .230 pieces together so I would not have to worry about any issues putting the whole rail through. Rails turned out great, and it took less time than you would think (4hrs labor from striping to recover, plus glue dry time of course). Not something I would choose to do often, but for someone that appreciates the work I will gladly take the time. In some cases the planer would be best, but the cover plate would have to come out and I doubt the planer would save any time once removing and replacing the floating nut plates.

And for the prism comment.... If you know what wavelength you are looking for, you don't need the prism at all.
Click to expand...

Why would you have to remove and replace the nut plates, they're in the center of the rails not mounted to the bottom?

Glen
 
I hear that planers don't like to chew through metal, even little ones! These rails had the wide staples that are right at the surface. I didn't want to tap them in and have it chew my blade up (again), provided you get the staples out in one piece it would be only logical to pull the nut plates so you can reinsert the retainers on the new wood height. These rails were funny, I might have done different on a slightly different design. Just trying to take on all comers until my knowledge and experience are equal and walking away from a nightmare becomes the logical choice. At this point, I will fix just about anything just to know I can.

On a similar note, I should have machine time this week to get my portable subrail plate done...

Picked up a jointer today, maybe looking to make a custom fence to do subrails yet another way.... Or recut Diamond rails to the "new specs"...

I do appreciate all the feedback

Rob
 
TableTek said:
I hear that planers don't like to chew through metal, even little ones! These rails had the wide staples that are right at the surface. I didn't want to tap them in and have it chew my blade up (again), provided you get the staples out in one piece it would be only logical to pull the nut plates so you can reinsert the retainers on the new wood height. These rails were funny, I might have done different on a slightly different design. Just trying to take on all comers until my knowledge and experience are equal and walking away from a nightmare becomes the logical choice. At this point, I will fix just about anything just to know I can.

On a similar note, I should have machine time this week to get my portable subrail plate done...

Picked up a jointer today, maybe looking to make a custom fence to do subrails yet another way.... Or recut Diamond rails to the "new specs"...

I do appreciate all the feedback

Rob
Click to expand...

Nice try, but you can't use a jointer to re-cut sub-rail bevels very accurately, but you can try;)

Glen
 
You know what I like to hear! "Can't" is my favorite word!

The only difference between a planer and a molder is a 90 degree fence and custom blades... And it was basically free. Gonna add this to the end of my business project list, first thing first is to beat your plywood tool!
Rob
 
TableTek said:
You know what I like to hear! "Can't" is my favorite word!

The only difference between a planer and a molder is a 90 degree fence and custom blades... And it was basically free. Gonna add this to the end of my business project list, first thing first is to beat your plywood tool!
Rob
Click to expand...

In the words of someone else....good luck:grin:
 
If one of the mechanics coming to the Super Billiards Expo has a set of twisted rails, I am happy to show off the process. My shop is less than 30 min from the convention center.
Rob
 
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