Moving a table 4 inches

matteroner

matteroner

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I miscalculated slightly when setting up my table and I need to move it about 4 inches. it's a brunswick kling with 3 piece 1" slate. Is it even worth trying? I am assuming I would have to jack it up from the sides at the cross members and slide it forward. But is this a stupid thing to attempt? I set the table up myself slates are pinned and joints are done with bondo.... I don't think it is worth breaking down for just 4 inches but If I could move it easily then I might try it.

Basically looking for a trick to moving it. the two legs at the foot end are shimmed so something could be moved under them .

Thanks for the help.
 
Dowel Rods

You can roll your table on dowel rods, on a hard floor 1/2" dowels will do fine.
 
matteroner said:
I miscalculated slightly when setting up my table and I need to move it about 4 inches. it's a brunswick kling with 3 piece 1" slate. Is it even worth trying? I am assuming I would have to jack it up from the sides at the cross members and slide it forward. But is this a stupid thing to attempt? I set the table up myself slates are pinned and joints are done with bondo.... I don't think it is worth breaking down for just 4 inches but If I could move it easily then I might try it.

Basically looking for a trick to moving it. the two legs at the foot end are shimmed so something could be moved under them .

Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

Are you moving it for aesthetics or do you not have room to swing a cue?
 
rexus31 said:
Are you moving it for aesthetics or do you not have room to swing a cue?
Click to expand...

The cueing is fine but I can't take my full stance when the ball is on the rail. Essentially my butt is up against a counter but the cue is above that. That's really why I didn't see it when I set the table up because I wasn't getting down in the stance. On the other side I left 5 feet because that is against a wall. And both sides have 5 feet. But I ended up leaving 5 feet and maybe an inch or so on the other side so I think it would be okay to move it that way just a bit.

Really i'm splitting hairs ....but if it were and easy fix then I would do it ....but I don't care enough if I have to redo the slate leveling and the seems.

thanks.
 
matteroner said:
The cueing is fine but I can't take my full stance when the ball is on the rail. Essentially my butt is up against a counter but the cue is above that. That's really why I didn't see it when I set the table up because I wasn't getting down in the stance. On the other side I left 5 feet because that is against a wall. And both sides have 5 feet. But I ended up leaving 5 feet and maybe an inch or so on the other side so I think it would be okay to move it that way just a bit.

Really i'm splitting hairs ....but if it were and easy fix then I would do it ....but I don't care enough if I have to redo the slate leveling and the seems.

thanks.
Click to expand...

I would personally leave it as is. What happens if you move it to far? You may open up a can of worms.
 
Depending on which direction one or two pallet jacks. Stack blocks up to the frame then lift and push, - Re-level
 
furniture sliders

I recently had carpet installed and needed to move my table. I had a buddy come over and we put large furniture sliders under each leg of my GC and it slide from both sides of the room just fine. Slight releveling was needed but nothing major. Good luck.
 
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I moved a 5x10 6 legged antique Brunswick snooker table with furniture sliders with all by my lonesome with little effort.
 
Travis3c said:
I moved a 5x10 6 legged antique Brunswick snooker table with furniture sliders with all by my lonesome with little effort.
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how do you get them on the sliders? is there a little tool that they come with.

this is a 4 leg on hardwood floor.

thanks for all the help...
 
If the frame is beefy like the table I moved. I just used a bottle jack and a 2ft 2x4 to lift the frame just high enough to get the sliders under the feet.
 
use a jack not your back

We used our backs (arch and push on all fours under the frame) and the other guy slid them under the legs. I wouldn't recommend this approach unless you're stout enough. A jack probably makes better sense we just didn't have one at the time.
 
Just get 3 2x4's 8 feet long and 5 other friends. Put the 2x4's under the table box so the 2x4's stick out about 1 1/2 foot on each side of the table. Then the 6 of you can lift and move. Very easy.
 
If you are going to pick the table up to put something under the legs do it under the center of the table frame on the long sides rather from each end. This will minimize the chances of the seam popping on either slate joint.

I would jack it up there just a tiny bit and slide a scrap of carpet under each leg facing down and then slide it the 4 inches using several people since it's on hardwood. The less you lift it the better.

JC
 
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