Mushroom Tips


A problem? No, I don't think so. Another example, by hand.
 

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again, great work

A problem? No, I don't think so. Another example, by hand.

for me, the older i get i gets a lil more
but still probably not enough to take that much time on my tip,

if i did i could probably make some money,
i dont have super collectable cues that warrant that kind of tip job.
 
for me, the older i get i gets a lil more
but still probably not enough to take that much time on my tip,

if i did i could probably make some money,
i dont have super collectable cues that warrant that kind of tip job.

A man's gotta know his limitations...

(Clint Eastwood)
 
You could cut the excess off with a razor and then sand with a metal file and burnish with a matchbook cover or a dollar bill.

This other method that is not as popular with some people is to cut the tip lower. It doesn't mushroom that way. Tall soft tips have more tip to mushroom. Of course doesn't last as long which is why some people don' t like it. but some people prefer the hit of a tip that is not as thick. I have only read about it being done by people with elkmasters though which are very cheap.
 
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If a tip mushrooms after install, I tell my customers to bring it back and I’ll take care of mushrooming for free. A good installer should do this.
 
There is a device that looks like a pencil sharpener
Removes the overhang
I bought it on eBay
Really cheap
Works great
Sorry don’t have the link
Then burnish the sides and shape the tip
I usually have to do this once after a few hours with my g2 soft
 
I'm always scared to touch the ferrule while doing that, do you have any technique?

Yes, use the rail on a Valley, works great to burnish the side of the tip. Just rub the tip while holding the shaft only, works great, wont mess up your ferrule either.
 
Anything that's not lepro or hardened triangle will mushroom

Last 4ever tip tool and roll
https://youtu.be/JWqFCutmPGE

i use Tiger Everest, I dont have problems with mushrooming, it does take a few games to get the tip to compress were I am happy with the way it plays. I also break with my playing cue. (sometimes it seems like I am the only person in the whole room who doesnt have at least 2 cues out)
 
i use Tiger Everest, I dont have problems with mushrooming, it does take a few games to get the tip to compress were I am happy with the way it plays. I also break with my playing cue. (sometimes it seems like I am the only person in the whole room who doesnt have at least 2 cues out)

i was that way for a good while, my players sp had a perfect lepro that hardened up and broke well, that i also played with
i like a hard playing tip
but since going carbon and the white diamond break tip discovery
, im just like all the rest now
 
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When I notice a slight mushroom on a newly installed tip, I use a Porper tip burnisher, wet the edge of the tip and use the tool--it pushes the side wall back in and the burnish will hold...might take a couple of treatments and eventually the tip gets to a point where the sidewall holds for the rest of the tip's life. I also have a Porper tip shaver, but I only use that (and carefully!) when the tip is VERY mushroomed and can't be saved with a simple burnish.

https://www.pooldawg.com/porper-tip-burnisher
 
How often do your
Tips mushroom? Mine seem to be swelling a bit faster than normal, Ultra Skins med. since I have a table at home I have been playing about 2 hrs a day.
What is your best method and tool for shaping the sides?


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Soft tips will always mushroom two or three times, sometimes more. I generally carefully tape up to the top of my ferrule with scotch tape wrapped at least twice around. Then I take a piece of 80 or 100 grit sandpaper 4” X 4” folded up to 1” square. Then carefully sand off the mushrooming Off the edges while gradually turning the shaft, so that you are taking it off evenly. The sandpaper will contact the top of the ferrule, but the scotch tape will protect that from scratching up the ferrule. Then I take 600, then 1500, then 3000 grit sandpaper, in that order, to smooth up the edge of the tip. Then I remove all the excess scotch tape from the ferrule. Finally I use a piece of wax paper to burnish the edge of the tip nicely.
 
I haven't had a problem with Triangle, Everest or Tzar tips mushrooming...I just put a new Tzar on 3 weeks ago and haven't touched the tip for mushrooming or glazing....
 
When I notice a slight mushroom on a newly installed tip, I use a Porper tip burnisher, wet the edge of the tip and use the tool--it pushes the side wall back in and the burnish will hold...might take a couple of treatments and eventually the tip gets to a point where the sidewall holds for the rest of the tip's life. I also have a Porper tip shaver, but I only use that (and carefully!) when the tip is VERY mushroomed and can't be saved with a simple burnish.

https://www.pooldawg.com/porper-tip-burnisher

I use a similar white plastic burnisher bought back in the 90’s (also knurled). Tips that don’t mushroom are too hard to take much english (IMHO). Eventually softer tips will harden with use, and seldom mushroom from then on (unless used to break with). Wetting & burnishing a few times will keep a mushroomed tip thicker, and tapping instead of sanding to rough it will also prolong it’s life, but trimming the mushroomed edge instead will shorten it’s life.
 
Will is absolutely right and so is edwu.

My Kamui Clear Black soft tips never mushroom.
I have them on 15 cue shafts. it’s my favorite.

If your tips ever mushroom, do exactly what Will
instructed. The only difference is I cut sandpaper
sheets into 1/2 “ strips and use 1000, 1500 and
finish with 2000. I buff the tip rotating it. Sort of
How you would buff you shoes but I apply more
pressure for sanding. You must rotate the tip to
maintain its round shape. The 2000 grit finish is
rub is performed fast & the leather really shines.
 
Using wax paper last will give you that professional looking burnished finish on the edge of your tip, much like when you’ve taken it to a pro repair shop for a new tip installation.
 
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