My break is not week!

Colin Colenso said:
This is a funny guy! Weird, but kind of funny:p

I'm shocked some of you don't realize he is joke posting.

Check his other posts!
Click to expand...

I am not so sure...Since there are no... (JK) :D ;) :eek: :p :cool:... of any kind in the post...One would tend to think the post is serious...

I don't care about grammar and spelling......as long as you can make your point and relate your emotions correctly.... ;) :D
 
Snapshot9 said:
will put the cue ball behind the head string with their hand
over the cue on the cushion to break. The problem with this
is that the cue ball is too far away from where they are
bridging, and they wind up on the hit stroke to let go.
What happens is they lose their accuracy on hitting the
cue ball exactly where they want to, which causes a loss
of energy, maybe jumping of skipping the cue ball into the
rack.

Beginning players do this a lot because they fail to learn how
to bridge properly for a break shot, on the head string, with
their hand NOT on the cushion. As a player advances in skill,
I have noticed that their breaking method also changes from
bridging on a cushion to a free standing bridge on break shots.

For accuracy and power both, it is actually better to shorten
your normal bridge a little when breaking to have more consistency
in breaking the balls, and break from the headstring, not halfway behind
it. If you have a problem doing that, then get a highly rated player or
instructor to show you how.
Click to expand...

Scott...Most of the time I agree with your posts. This one is somewhat all wet. It makes no difference whether you break from the back rail, side rail, or head string...or anywhere else within the 'kitchen'. What matters, as you pointed out, is the length of the bridge, and even more important, the final set up and delivery of the stroke.
More advanced players do not generally break from the string, with their hand on the table. There is nothing wrong with using a rail bridge to break, provided you have the compensatory stroke and timing required to get the job done.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
 
Snapshot9 said:
will put the cue ball behind the head string with their hand
over the cue on the cushion to break. The problem with this
is that the cue ball is too far away from where they are
bridging, and they wind up on the hit stroke to let go.
What happens is they lose their accuracy on hitting the
cue ball exactly where they want to, which causes a loss
of energy, maybe jumping of skipping the cue ball into the
rack.

Beginning players do this a lot because they fail to learn how
to bridge properly for a break shot, on the head string, with
their hand NOT on the cushion. As a player advances in skill,
I have noticed that their breaking method also changes from
bridging on a cushion to a free standing bridge on break shots.

For accuracy and power both, it is actually better to shorten
your normal bridge a little when breaking to have more consistency
in breaking the balls, and break from the headstring, not halfway behind
it. If you have a problem doing that, then get a highly rated player or
instructor to show you how.
Click to expand...

Scott Lee said:
Scott...Most of the time I agree with your posts. This one is somewhat all wet. It makes no difference whether you break from the back rail, side rail, or head string...or anywhere else within the 'kitchen'. What matters, as you pointed out, is the length of the bridge, and even more important, the final set up and delivery of the stroke.More advanced players do not generally break from the string, with their hand on the table. There is nothing wrong with using a rail bridge to break, provided you have the compensatory stroke and timing required to get the job done.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Click to expand...


Please explain the bolded if you would...

I feel like I get a much better snap on the CB with a longer bridge length than I do with a short bridge length.......When I say longer, I mean slightly longer than a normal shot, I don't mean half way to the joint.

I do shorten the length between bridge hand and grip hand...(if thats what you mean)

I actually practice the break by moving my grip hand back on the cue.....for me this throws off the timing of the release of the break.......after I have suffered this way for a few breaks...I then move my grip hand forward to the postitions that I normally break from and both the timing of the break and control of the cue are greatly improved...

I am curious to know why you would recommend a shorter bridge length for the break.....(If you meant from bridge hand to the tip of the cue)

Thanks
 
cuetechasaurus said:
AN instuctor was at the pool hall today traning a nice lady and was teaching the break, and I can get the cueball the highest in air from thebreak, and my way to break is to use my birdge hand on TOP of the wood. The instuctror was watching me after he was done with her and he siad he could teach me. Well I didnt need no teahcing since my brake is powerful. He said that its not powerful and then I said well why does my white ball fly so high on the breake, and he said cause my bridge is on top of the wood, (I fogot what that part is on top of the cushion) and then he said something like my bridge makes it hop and jump higher but I said no because the white ball jumps when I hit it so hard, breakause my break is powerful. Well we argude about it and he just shook his head and said my breake is week and he left. I did some more brakes and yes its powerful, but why would he say that, an dhe is an instuctor.
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I concuree, your breake is not week, what he siad is wrong, he should not have argude with you. Your breake is powerful if you can get the cueball the highest in the air from thebreak with the birdgehand on TOP of the wood.

Wayne (I think I know who is posting this but I will keep it a secret)
 
wayne said:
I concuree, your breake is not week, what he siad is wrong, he should not have argude with you. Your breake is powerful if you can get the cueball the highest in the air from thebreak with the birdgehand on TOP of the wood.

Wayne (I think I know who is posting this but I will keep it a secret)
Click to expand...


There you go...hoarding pool secrets again.... ;) :D
 
Sounds like the guy was just trying to help,doudt the next lesson will be free.
 
Koop said:
Then it is clearly monthly!

Welcome back BJT!
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LMFAO! I'm so glad I wasn't in the middle of taking a drink.... it would've spewed for sure!


Colin Colenso said:
I'm shocked some of you don't realize he is joke posting.

Check his other posts!
Click to expand...
It NEVER ceases to amaze me when I see people reply to one of his posts seriously. :rolleyes: I haven't taken his bait. I just sit back, watch, & laugh. :p
 
Timberly said:
It NEVER ceases to amaze me when I see people reply to one of his posts seriously. :rolleyes: I haven't taken his bait. I just sit back, watch, & laugh. :p
Click to expand...
Yu aer ritgh. Ther's no wy thsi gey is syryus.
 
Colin Colenso said:
This is a funny guy! Weird, but kind of funny:p

I'm shocked some of you don't realize he is joke posting.

Check his other posts!
Click to expand...

hehe No doubt, a few chains are being jerked, a few legs are being pulled.
 
I was referring to ...

Scott Lee said:
Scott...Most of the time I agree with your posts. This one is somewhat all wet. It makes no difference whether you break from the back rail, side rail, or head string...or anywhere else within the 'kitchen'. What matters, as you pointed out, is the length of the bridge, and even more important, the final set up and delivery of the stroke.
More advanced players do not generally break from the string, with their hand on the table. There is nothing wrong with using a rail bridge to break, provided you have the compensatory stroke and timing required to get the job done.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Click to expand...

I was referring to the head end rail. Granted side rails are used for
breaking, but with more tournaments going to the 'box' to break,
you would normally have your bridge hand on the cloth.
The reason you shorten up your bridge hand closer to the tip, a little,
is because most people, especially good players, have a tendency to
'wind up' on the hit stroke when breaking to try to get a snap. Doing this
also decreases accuracy. A shorter bridge keeps this more in check,
and helps prevent your last stroke from doing like a pendulum in a
grandfather clock (raising your butt hand up on the back swing). Plus,
you really don't lose the power you think you do.
 
BRKNRUN said:
Please explain the bolded if you would...

I feel like I get a much better snap on the CB with a longer bridge length than I do with a short bridge length.......When I say longer, I mean slightly longer than a normal shot, I don't mean half way to the joint.

I do shorten the length between bridge hand and grip hand...(if thats what you mean)

I actually practice the break by moving my grip hand back on the cue.....for me this throws off the timing of the release of the break.......after I have suffered this way for a few breaks...I then move my grip hand forward to the postitions that I normally break from and both the timing of the break and control of the cue are greatly improved...

I am curious to know why you would recommend a shorter bridge length for the break.....(If you meant from bridge hand to the tip of the cue)

Thanks
Click to expand...

I don't recommend a shorter bridge length for the break.
However, if your bridge hand is a long way from the CB (longer than a foot), the chance that you may miss where you're aiming at on the CB increases exponentially. Timing and a smooth delivery are the critical factors for any stroke, the break included.

Hope this helps...

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
 
There you go I would have given positive points for that post but if negative is what you want, so be it.

oops! I thoughtI was posting on the thread in NPR!

...I need to get something to eat
 
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cuetechasaurus said:
but why would he say that, an dhe is an instuctor.
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Saurus,
If he really is a certified (or competent, or both) instructor; you should listen to him.

At DCC this year, several of us were present for a lesson that Jerry Briesath gave to Jeanette Lee on the 8-ball break. He had observed her play in the A.M., noted a significant flaw in her break; and told her that her break needed work. Her VERY FIRST RESPONSE (after considering the issue for almost an entire second) was, "let's go work on it now." Several of us were privileged to watch the lesson in the AZB room (not to mention the un-registered onepocket.org guy who kept trying to interject his profound thoughts on the break while Jerry was working with her).

Anyway, if you play at a higher level than JL, then please ignore this post. If you don't, you may have missed a golden opportunity to improve your game.

As Danny D. always says, "if you knew what you didn't know, then you wouldn't not know it." It could be you have a decent break that could be even better (you might not "know it"); sometimes we have to swallow our pride.
 
The BREAK SHOT is a complex shot

Williebetmore said:
Saurus,
If he really is a certified (or competent, or both) instructor; you should listen to him.
Click to expand...

The "OPEN" Break Shot in games like 8-Ball or 9-Ball require some accuracy along with some power. The shot should really be practiced.

Bouncing the cue ball into the air is caused by 2 scenarios. The cue ball is an downward arc into impact (after bouncing off the table surface) or bouncing off the table on an upward arc into impact. Either one of these scenarios are a loss of power (maybe very little on the Richter scale, but there is some loss) similar to hitting the lead ball off to one side.

Earl Strickland noticed a bouncing problem, on their break shots) at the Mosconi Cup & addressed the problem by moving the cue ball back from the heasd string (farther from the lead ball). In effect, he was timing the cue ball's bounce to the location of the lead ball position.
 
You were given good advice so why not take it and practice it a few hours a week for a month or two? While you're at it, stop braking while breaking. BTW, the white ball is the cue ball.
 
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Wow people, read the whole thread before you post, or at least beyond the initial post. This was a joke.
 
Secaucus Fats said:
You were given good advice so why not take it and practice it a few hours a week for a month or two? While you're at it, stop braking while breaking. BTW, the white ball is the cue ball.
Click to expand...

I believe cuetechasaurus posted this thread as a joke.
 
I messed up by bumping an old thread when Cuetechasarus was still "in character". He is actively soliciting negative rep points in the NPR forum. Since I got a kick out of this when he posted it I thought I would give the points for this thread (negative points, since that is what he wanted). I inadvertently posted here rather than the thread where is asking for negative points. My post above is the first on this thread since October when he was messing with all of us with that character.

My bad:o
 
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