My conclusions on Diamond Pro-Am vs. Brunswick Gold Crown V

[realkingcobra]

MDavis,

I think you should consider the Real wood (non dymondwood) 3piece Professional models.

It looks way better than the Pro-ams IMO and set up by a good Mechanic it will play IDENTICAL to a Pro-am. You would get the best of both worlds. Best playing table, that looks great.

The one thing I don't really care about with any kind of natural wood rail finishes....is that sooner or later they're going to have to be refinished again...and they'll show every dent from accidently dropping a ball on the rails....or any thing else hitting the rails....wood shows wear and tear no matter who builds the rails....Diamond's included, that is why the Dymondwood is so much better

 

[JoeyA]

By far the one piece slate, because it's much easier to level...and there's no seams to come apart

Glen

Thanks! :thumbup:

 

[ITguy]

I don't know Ian, the Pro Am kind of grows on you


jim

 

[DogsPlayingPool]

Thanks for the explanation Glen - that's the best yet.

The angle...larger contact area means a wider angle of reflection? So, wider banks.

Speed...I would think a larger contact area would decrease speed? So, as the contact area increases in thickness, the coeff of friction increases, and thus the balls slow down?

Sound...I have no idea...more ZZtop, less AC/DC??

Spin...I would think less, not more?

-mark

I was thinking that spin would increase with a larger contact area. Wouldn't a larger contact patch result in the spin "taking" more?

 

[mdavis]

By far the one piece slate, because it's much easier to level...and there's no seams to come apart

Glen

can
Glen-

At the end of a level...comparing a 1-piece and a 3-piece...What is more exact? It seems the gaps in a 3-piece would be non-optimal, yet it also seems that warping or thickness variation would be less of a problem on a 3-piece?

Does the BCA allow both?

Thanks, -mark

 

[mdavis]

I don't know Ian, the Pro Am kind of grows on you


jim

It looks a lot better in that photo -- that is the best I've seen...the wood looks less like a high-school shop class project

-mark

 

[mdavis]

The one thing I don't really care about with any kind of natural wood rail finishes....is that sooner or later they're going to have to be refinished again...and they'll show every dent from accidently dropping a ball on the rails....or any thing else hitting the rails....wood shows wear and tear no matter who builds the rails....Diamond's included, that is why the Dymondwood is so much better

Valid point. But I wonder how much abuse occurs in homes? I mean...people drop a ball on my rail and they never play on my table again

-mark

 

[realkingcobra]

Valid point. But I wonder how much abuse occurs in homes? I mean...people drop a ball on my rail and they never play on my table again

-mark

In that case....it'll be easy to keep track of how many people that have played pool on your table....wouldn't you think?

 

[mdavis]

I was thinking that spin would increase with a larger contact area. Wouldn't a larger contact patch result in the spin "taking" more?

Interesting problem. If the contact wasn't rubber, it would merely be a source of friction and with larger surface area, you'd see a larger degradation...

The complication is the rubber -- which COULD enhance it...since there are elastic forces involved and in that case, it would ADD more spin on the bounce....

So you compare the friction loss (which is larger, thus less spin) to the bounce gain (which is larger, thus more spin) and the one with greater magnitude wins...

I suspect some Physics ugrad could come up with the simple equations...I forgot all that shit.

-mark

 

[mdavis]

In that case....it'll be easy to keep track of how many people that have played pool on your table....wouldn't you think?

Hehe...My house certainly isn't a pool hall

Glen, you are allowing to play here though -- you can give me some lessons...seriously.

-mark

 

[Donny Wessels]

here's another thing to consider. Players who go from Diamond to Gold Crown's have no problem adjusting but Gold Crown players have a tough time on a Diamond.

 

[mdavis]

here's another thing to consider. Players who go from Diamond to Gold Crown's have no problem adjusting but Gold Crown players have a tough time on a Diamond.

That is an effect.

What is the root cause of this? I suspect they are covered above.

The shelf depth on the Diamond?
The rails (and we're talking Diamond blue here, which should be close to a GC V)?
The bumper speed?
The cloth...although, it's easy to put 860HR on both.

 

[Donny Wessels]

Valid point. But I wonder how much abuse occurs in homes? I mean...people drop a ball on my rail and they never play on my table again

-mark

when the ball bounces off the table on breaks, sometimes will hit the rail.

 

[Donny Wessels]

That is an effect.

What is the root cause of this? I suspect they are covered above.

The shelf depth on the Diamond?
The rails (and we're talking Diamond blue here, which should be close to a GC V)?
The bumper speed?
The cloth...although, it's easy to put 860HR on both.

Its the shelf.

the pocket angles are actually easier to pocket balls than a stock brunswick.

 

[mdavis]

Its the shelf.

the pocket angles are actually easier to pocket balls than a stock brunswick.

141 vs. 142/143 degrees?

 

[mdavis]

when the ball bounces off the table on breaks, sometimes will hit the rail.

Not with my terrible breaks.