My first tip installation. Went south

Fatboy said:
Same for me.

I couldn’t replace a tip if my life depended on it. I tried a couple times. All I did was cut myself and destroy the ferrel.🤕

Smart enough to know when I’m dumb,
Fatboy
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Nah… if you watched someone you could do it. Everything I learn is from someone else. I can’t figure anything out including pool.
 
GoldCrown said:
Nah… if you watched someone you could do it. Everything I learn is from someone else. I can’t figure anything out including pool.
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I’ve been watching guys do amazing tip work since 85. I’m fumbly and just don’t have the skills for that. I can cook, do math. Can’t spell lol.

Watching for sure is the best way to learn. I know what to do. But can’t execute. Patients is also a issue with me on doing things like tip work. I can crown a tip when it gets flat, but can’t cut the mushroomed sides off. With a lathe or razor.

Thankfully I don’t have to use my hands to earn a living.

Best
Fatboy
 
Bob Jewett said:
Evidently you didn't leave a reverse bevel as shown in Step 7 and didn't do Step 8 because there was no tip left to sand.

Start at 4:06 for Step 7.
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I did both steps but apparently, I did them wrongly......however today my second try is better, still I need to perfect step 7 because right now if you move your fingertips across the part where ferrule meets tip you will feel a very very tiny slight bump which is what step 7 also helps, so first try I did it very badly, the second try maybe I was too caution probably a bit too much where I left a slight nip in there. And now I'm a little scared to even try to remove it, the tip looks better this second time but this slight nip/bump between ferrule/tip is something I want to remove, ill try sanding it down with 2000 sandpaper tomorrow although I already tried it didn't remove that bump.
 
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lfigueroa said:
For your first couple of tips *always* experiment with a shaft you don't care about.

At Home Depot buy a decent quality utility knife, masking tape, some 400 and 1000 grit sandpaper, and a 34" bar clamp ($18).
Online buy a Tweeten Rapid Sander and some Loctite Professional Super Glue.

Cut the old tip off.
Line the inside of the sander clamp with a few pieces of masking tape to avoid denting your shaft.
Using the 60 grit round piece of sandpaper that comes with the sander cut a couple of matching disks from the 400 and 1000.
If there's old tip left on the cue start with the 400 and when you see ferrule switch to the 1000.
Using a piece of 400 carefully rub the bottom of your new tip back and forth on it to rough it up just a bit.
Apply glue, clamp, and let dry overnight.

Wrap the ferrule with masking tape, turn the shaft tip down on a hard surface, and using *a new blade* carefully trim the tip.
Cut a thin strip of 400 and wrap it around the edge of the tip and slowly rotate the shaft until the tip is almost flush with the ferrule.
Repeat with a thin strip of 1000 grit and burnish with a folded wet paper towel.

Now before anyone gets on my case about my glue or sandpaper grit recommendations or anything else, I just want to say that this has worked for me in the past. Of course you can vary the procedure if something works better for you. But if you're going to go commando on replacing your tips this is a start. Nowadays I use a Williards to trim my tips.

Lou Figueroa
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Thanks for the steps!! I'll keep all that in mind next time...I did a second try today and its better, I may upload a pic tomorrow but here in your text where I highlighted is what I feel the most difficult part. How do I perfect to make the tip and ferrule flush together. On my second try I feel that there's a little bit of bump when I move my fingertips across the ferrule and tip. So they arent flush still and sanding down with 2000 or 1000 grit isn't doing much I feel its making the tip more like a cone rather than making the tip/ferrule sit flush.
 
smoochie said:
Thanks for the steps!! I'll keep all that in mind next time...I did a second try today and its better, I may upload a pic tomorrow but here in your text where I highlighted is what I feel the most difficult part. How do I perfect to make the tip and ferrule flush together. On my second try I feel that there's a little bit of bump when I move my fingertips across the ferrule and tip. So they arent flush still and sanding down with 2000 or 1000 grit isn't doing much I feel its making the tip more like a cone rather than making the tip/ferrule sit flush.
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Flush together? The flat faced portion or the rounded circumference?
And Start out with courser sandpaper. 2000/1000 is for finishing...won't reduce dimension. There are good tools made for getting tip/ferrule flush. I'll post later.
 
Get yourself a all in one tip tool. I have a few shafts I like to change tips on often and try out new tips. I enjoy changing tips with it
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rexus31 said:
I decided to continue to use a local cue maker
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Yeah, I like to give him some business.

The way I look at it, if I had a lathe and was replacing a tip, would I use the lathe? Then I'll take it to someone who has a lathe. I can see the value of doing it yourself, though. You may not be able to wait or you may not be near someone who does it well.
 
Tools…A good start. The mushroom cutter is the best I have used so far. Adjustable so it does not cut into ferrule when reducing tip circumference. No reason why a tip can’t be put on properly by hand. As for a lathe. No limits. Aside from cues… pens, walking sticks, canes, bottle stoppers, there is a lot of creative items a person can produce.
 

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GoldCrown said:
Tools…A good start. The mushroom cutter is the best I have used so far. Adjustable so it does not cut into ferrule when reducing tip circumference. No reason why a tip can’t be put on properly by hand. As for a lathe. No limits. Aside from cues… pens, walking sticks, canes, bottle stoppers, there is a lot of creative items a person can produce.
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A mushroom cutter is what you use to align the tip and ferrule (On the flat side) to be flush? Is it this in the image ill put a circle in one of your images let me know if that's it.

3c7fRI5PST.png
 
smoochie said:
A mushroom cutter is what you use to align the tip and ferrule (On the flat side) to be flush? Is it this in the image ill put a circle in one of your images let me know if that's it.

View attachment 633259
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Yes ....that the mushroom cutter....used for side of tip/ferrule. Not the top of tip. Top of tip is a separate issue. Can I suggest (anyone please support or flame this) starting with LePro or the cheapest tip you can buy. Elk Master is loaded with chalk...does not bond great and nasty to trim on the side.
The mushroom cutter will get the tip close but I like to finish with various grade sandpapers ...starting around 150-220 That's just me...my technique.
 
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GoldCrown said:
Yes ....that the mushroom cutter....used for side of tip/ferrule. Not the top of tip. Top of tip is a separate issue. Can I suggest (anyone please support or flame this) starting with LePro or the cheapest tip you can buy. Elk Master is loaded with chalk...does not bond great and nasty to trim on the side.
The mushroom cutter will get the tip close but I like to finish with various grade sandpapers ...starting around 150-220 That's just me...my technique.
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Back when I did them by hand years ago I couldn’t bring myself to use a mushroom cutter, worries about getting into the ferrule corner haphazardly….You make a valid point on tips to start with. Triangle would be one like the lepro you mentioned. One thing I did do was hold the shaft vertically tip down when shaping elkmasters using a razor blade (exacto knife to be specific) slight pressure down on tip and I’d trim close and down in sections, kept me from pulling on the tip sides or flexing it causing distortion to it.

I always liked 15mm triangles they seemed to be denser…so with a typical shaft there was always a lot of over hang….so even today if I install one like that I’ll trim a lot off like I described before finishing it with the lathe.

If one isn’t careful and don’t set the backlash right the excess especially with a very soft side, will reach out and grab your tooling, pull the tool into it (the slack/backlash) as well as flexing the end of shaft and can snap or rip a ferrule and tennon off no problem.

Plenty of threads of this happening on here to various people over the past 2 decades. Happens real quick then you learn fast 😂.
 
Tweetens aka The Master Chalk folks make some simple accessories for retiring.

tweeten.us

Accessories - Tweeten Fibre Company Inc.

To get the Tweeten 2025 Catalogue click here Tenoning Machine with Regular Chuck No. 700 The easy way to cut the dowel. Flexible chuckcenters the cue accurately. Regular chucktakes cues from 11 to 15mm.Special chuck available for cues from 9 to12 mm. Two removable cutting blades. Sidecutter...
tweeten.us tweeten.us
 
CocoboloCowboy said:
Tweetens aka The Master Chalk folks make some simple accessories for retiring.

tweeten.us

Accessories - Tweeten Fibre Company Inc.

To get the Tweeten 2025 Catalogue click here Tenoning Machine with Regular Chuck No. 700 The easy way to cut the dowel. Flexible chuckcenters the cue accurately. Regular chucktakes cues from 11 to 15mm.Special chuck available for cues from 9 to12 mm. Two removable cutting blades. Sidecutter...
tweeten.us tweeten.us
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the one that looks useful is way overpriced iirc
 
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