My Magic Eraser Experience

yally

yally

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So, after seeing all the posts about the Magic Eraser, I decided to give it a shot. Hope the cuemakers on the board won't fry me, but for years I just used a drop of windex to wipe down my shaft and clean off the gunk.

Well, whipped out the trusty windex again with my eraser and went to town on one of my Jensen shafts. Check out the results...

1. Wipe down with moist (Windex) Magic eraser
2. Rub down with dry eraser
3. Microsand with ol McMagic
4. Seal and burnish with Karseal Cue wax

BEFORE

beforeeraser.jpg


AFTER

aftereraser.jpg


Total time: 5 Min

Sweet.....:D
 
You can also use it on the doorknob. :)

I know the cue makers don’t particularly like it, but IMO it’s worth using every so often.

Rick
 
a fellow azer showed me the process last year at valley forge. works great with water to for those afraid of using windex.
 
I was tempted to use water also. On another thread a few people mentioned that water might be absorbed by the wood and raise the grain. Never had that happen with windex on me!
 
Door Knob

hustlefinger said:
You can also use it on the doorknob. :)

I know the cue makers don’t particularly like it, but IMO it’s worth using every so often.

Rick
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I can't stop laughing!!!! :D :) :D :) :D :)
 
You should not use water for sure. Denatured alcohol will work fine and evaporate quickly and not raise the grain.

Kelly
 
Might be a silly question, but what "exactly" is denatured alcohol? Rubbing alcohol? Thanks.
 
The Magic Erasers raise the grain, no matter what you use. That's the only way to get a shaft that clean without sending it to a cuemaker, from what I've been told.
 
Cleaning Shafts

Kelly_Guy said:
You should not use water for sure. Denatured alcohol will work fine and evaporate quickly and not raise the grain.

Kelly
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Denatured alcohol Not recommended at the same time as lighting up your cigars or cigarettes.
 
I use alcohol with them. I just go to the drug store and buy the highest % of alcohol they have. Works just fine, and also seems to do a good job on linen wraps without raising it up much if at all.
 
hustlefinger said:
You can also use it on the doorknob. :)

I know the cue makers don’t particularly like it, but IMO it’s worth using every so often.

Rick
Click to expand...

Now that's funny!
 
Denatured alcool..

yally said:
Might be a silly question, but what "exactly" is denatured alcohol? Rubbing alcohol? Thanks.
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99% + alcool
Something is added to make it poisonous. Not for drinking!

It's one of the best solution to clean a shaft without raising the grain much. I also use it with the magic eraser.
 
Ok, as I have mentioned this before when people ask what to do when cleaning thier shaft.

Buy some baby wipes and use them to clean your cue shafts. But if you also let it get dirty like this guy did in the thread, its kinda pointless to even clean the shaft.

I know several guys who use baby wipes once a month on thier cue shafts and they've had thier cues for several years and the cue's still look brandnew!
 
StormHotRod300 said:
Ok, as I have mentioned this before when people ask what to do when cleaning thier shaft.

Buy some baby wipes and use them to clean your cue shafts. But if you also let it get dirty like this guy did in the thread, its kinda pointless to even clean the shaft.

I know several guys who use baby wipes once a month on thier cue shafts and they've had thier cues for several years and the cue's still look brandnew!
Click to expand...


Hmmm....feels like I am being accused of cue negelct....:confused: . What does that mean, " it would be pointless for me to clean the shaft"? Those 2 shafts have seen 10 years worth of playing. They get wiped down each time, and treated each month.


With all the pores filled with chalk, the cue plays incredibly smooth (as I think most players would agree).


The Magic eraser was an interesting test.
 
> Standard drug-store rubbing alcohol is 79% pure,meaning it has 21% water. Denatured alcohol,like you find at stores like Lowe's,is 90%,with 10% water. It cleans better,and dries quicker. Depending on where you live,there might be a hassle buying it though. The last time I bought some at the local Lowe's,I had to sign a registry in accordance with State laws that are used to track purchase of chemicals that can be used for making meth. According to the list,denatured can be used,along with some other shockingly common items such as paper coffee filters,and most places are forced to make you sign for them,or maybe it's a random thing and I just happened to be there at the time. I use the Eraser with a citrus-based household degreaser called Orange Clean,and don't use a whole lot of it either. When I get done with the Eraser,the shaft is ready for 600 as soon as it's dry. It works really well by hand,but spinning in a lathe is really where it shines. Tommy D.
 
Normally I use 90% alcohol with the Magic Eraser. A friend of mine uses lighter fluid, and it seems to work well also.
 
Cheez Dawg said:
Normally I use 90% alcohol with the Magic Eraser. A friend of mine uses lighter fluid, and it seems to work well also.
Click to expand...

I tell any customer who asks how to clean his shaft about the Magic Erasure. I keep them in the shop just for demonstrations as they need to be used running with the grain so they do little when using a lathe. I don't think keeping your shaft clean yourself bothers many cue mechanics. It's the one thing in cue repair/building I don't enjoy. I haven't cleaned one of my own shafts in over 10 years. I tell customers to use a cleaning agent such as Windex, alcohol or better yet ammonia, if you can stand the smell.

Dick
 
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Well ....

I use 'Orange' by Kroger, and Pledge - works just fine.

When I need it done real good, cuemaker only charges $10 to clean it up.
 
Snapshot9 said:
I use 'Orange' by Kroger, and Pledge - works just fine.

When I need it done real good, cuemaker only charges $10 to clean it up.
Click to expand...


I agree. I have found Pledge works great as the final step after any microsanding and burnishing.
 
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