Need Help With A Newer "Viking" Cue Clearcoat Problem !!!

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Need Help With A Newer "Viking Cue" Clearcoat Problem !!!

I'm having a technical issue with a pre-existing newer Viking cue's clearcoat.....

I wetsanded a few scratches with 1500g as I usually do and when I used my "3m finesse-it II" polishing paste to buff it out as I do with every other cue and also use the same for my new finishes as well... but this time it remained hazy ????

I repeated the process several times but with no luck.....

Does anyone have any advice or knowlege regarding viking cue switching urethanes or if there is some special polishing paste I now need for their cues....

This is a customer's cue, and all help would be greatly appreciated !!!!

Thanks a bunch !


- Eddie Wheat
 
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Jewelers Rouge

You might try buffing it out with jewelers rouge at a slower speed or by hand. I have also had good luck with 3000 polishing compound... it is supposed to have no grit just warms the surface.
 
My guess would be that it's a UV finish and not acrylic urethane as you believe it to be. Some of them will not buff to a hi-gloss. It's for this reason that you see a lot of 'orange peel' in the finish of some production cues, particularly McDermotts. They have to rely on the last coat applied to give them the gloss and leveling of the finish. Quick & easy ain't always better. Worst case scenario, you may have to apply a top-coat of acrylic urethane if you can't find a suitable polishing compound. I seem to remember reading where our own Mr. Dickie Neighbors uses a similar method in finishing his cues. UV as a base coat, then acrylic urethane as a top-coat. Maybe he can give you some direction.
 
Viking went UV eons ago I though.
It was well documented on Pool and Billiards.
High speed buffing wheels r the only ticket on those I was told.
 
After reading the post, UV finish was what first thing that crossed my mind also. That's one of the few finishes that seems impossible to buff out. To get the haze out could just be a matter of using the correct compound, but I haven't found It if so. The 3m stuff doesn't seem to work very well at all. Urethanes, Ca's, or laquers You don't even have to sand down that fine to get the 3m to shine them up, Ofcoarse some sand marks may be left if you buffed at a coarser grit, but the point is It works well for removing the haze on most finishes, unless the haze is trapped between cotes of clear. UV finishes I'm lost as far as buffing/polishing goes.
 
KJ hit the nail on the head. It was never intended to be buffed in the first place. It can be done, but you'll need to begin rubbing with heavier grit paste than you'd use for urethane, and work your way up to the fine stuff. Would be a good idea to use a buffing wheel, too. You won't get it with a microfiber towel on your sanding/polishing lathe.
 
I've used 4 different brands of U.V. and have never been successful in rubbing any of them out to their original, pre-polished shine. There is one group who say they have found some that rubs out easily but I've never tried it as they re bottle it and sell for about double the original price. It may be worth it but I'm hard headed about things like that. I know of a couple of cue-makers who used German polishes to rub out U.V. finishes and they looked O.K. but not nearly as good as they should. The bad part of this is that this stuff only polishes, it doesn't rub out. So, even though the cue looks O.K. when first finished, on down the road when the polish starts to wear a little the finish under is very dull and the cue looks horrible. I know of one cue-maker who got almost a hundred cues back to refinish over these issues.
I still use the U.V. system but just for a filler, which it is great for. Very quick to put on and builds quickly. I put on a Urethane afterwards as it is so easy to rub out and looks as good as any finish on the market. It takes less than an hour to spray three cues and six shafts with three coats of Urethane and then it takes less than ten minutes to rub it out and I know I'll have a great finish.
Some one said that it takes a high speed buffing wheel to buff out the U.V. but I have two sets of 4, 10 inch buffing wheels for compound that run at around 1700 rpm that never worked and I've got a 3,000 rpm rotary 7 inch buffer that I use while the cue is rotating around 1200 rpm in the lathe and it also wouldn't rub out the stuff as good as it should be. Probably someplace has the tricks and proper compounds to use but I haven't located them. None of the companies that I bought the U.V. from had any recommendations.

Dick
 
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rhncue said:
I've used 4 different brands of U.V. and have never been successful in rubbing any of them out to their original, pre-polished shine. There is one group who say they have found some that rubs out easily but I've never tried it as they re bottle it and sell for about double the original price. It may be worth it but I'm hard headed about things like that. I know of a couple of cue-makers who used German polishes to rub out U.V. finishes and they looked O.K. but not nearly as good as they should. The bad part of this is that this stuff only polishes, it doesn't rub out. So, even though the cue looks O.K. when first finished, on down the road when the polish starts to wear a little the finish under is very dull and the cue looks horrible. I know of one cue-maker who got almost a hundred cues back to refinish over these issues.
I still use the U.V. system but just for a filler, which it is great for. Very quick to put on and builds quickly. I put on a Urethane afterwards as it is so easy to rub out and looks as good as any finish on the market. It takes less than an hour to spray three cues and six shafts with three coats of Urethane and then it takes less than ten minutes to rub it out and I know I'll have a great finish.
Some one said that it takes a high speed buffing wheel to buff out the Urethane but I have two sets of 4, 10 inch buffing wheels for compound that run at around 1700 rpm that never worked and I've got a 3,000 rpm rotary 7 inch buffer that I use while the cue is rotating around 1200 rpm in the lathe and it also wouldn't rub out the stuff as good as it should be. Probably someplace has the tricks and proper compounds to use but I haven't located them. None of the companies that I bought the U.V. from had any recommendations.

Dick
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Excellent help !!!!! thank you all !!!

I really appreciate everyone else who took the time to offer their advice and insight to me on rectifying this problem I'm currently having here....



Sincerely, Eddie Wheat
 
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tsp&b said:
You might try buffing it out with jewelers rouge at a slower speed or by hand. I have also had good luck with 3000 polishing compound... it is supposed to have no grit just warms the surface.
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They have different types of rouge. I might also suggest a crystal rouge. This is normally used for the soft plastic of watch crystals. Doesnt wear down too quickly. Just my 2 cents.
 
MikeJanis said:
It is absolutely, 100% UV finish.

Call Barry at Viking he might be able to give you better instructions.

1-800-397-0122

Mj
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Thanks Mike, I appreciate the contact info !


- Eddie Wheat
 
VIKING CUES suggested I try this.....

I Left Barry @ Viking cues a voice mail and followed up with an e-mail earlier this week regarding this situation...

Rick contacted me by phone earlier today and discussed the following:

They're polishing compound is custom made for them overseas, so obviously he Won't divulge the info. however he suggested that I use "MEGUIAR'S #83 MIRROR GLAZE (CUT-6)" to rectify the problem....

He stated the repair dept. uses it with great results and that would be my best choice due to the fact that viking has not found anything else that's available to the public that will put the shine back on !

So this is straight from the horse's mouth !!!!

I will be obtaining some Maguir'es shortly, and will let you guys know the results !!!



Thanks again, Eddie Wheat
 
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