Need Some IDEA Help From Cue Makers

HawaiianEye

HawaiianEye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Aloha all,

I have come to the decision that I will "restore" this cue and get it back in my playing lineup. I have NO problem with changing the looks of it up a bit if it will "improve" its playing characteristics.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=273273&highlight=hawaiianeye+schmidt

The history of the cue is in the post listed. It has a "sentimental" value to me, but I like "playing" cues and not "wall" cues that are kept around as museum pieces.

I haven't played with this cue (save a few racks recently) in years, but it seems to hit a lot "harder" than my playing style cares for. I don't remember it ever hitting quite as hard when I first got it.

I know that one of the shafts may not be an "original" that was made for it when I bought it, but it was made by A.E. Schmidt as a replacement. From the pool hall owner's memory, he thinks he may have "snapped" one of the two original shafts after losing a BIG money match with it.

From my long-ago memory, I ordered BOTH shafts with 14mm specs, but they have since been turned down to 13mm or maybe even a bit less. The "replacement" shaft seems to have a "shinier" ferrule, which I'm sure is a different material than the other original shaft.

I think the harder hit of the cue may be the age, the metal joint with metal collars on the shafts, the tips, and the ferrules. I know the current tips (LePro) have to be years old and I'm sure leather hardens up with age.

Assuming all of the above can be "adjusted", what would you do to make a "softer" but "firm" hit? By firm, I mean 'solid"...I don't like the "plinkety plink" sounds or feel of really hard hitting cues.

I plan on having the butt cut down to a more modern size and I'm sure that will change the way it plays also.

I think the restoration-style of the butt sleeve will be dependent upon materials availability. I don't know if matching up the pearlescent rings can be easily done (I know one of them has a hairline crack).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Happy Holidays to ALL!
 
I would change the tip to a medium and probably the ferrule to a softer material. Juma would be a good choice. Do this on one shaft and check the hit. The stainless steel joint will definitely yield a stiffer hit, but I would change that as a last resort.

JMO,
Alan

Phelps Custom Cues
 
I don't see a bumper on this cue.
One of the tasks of a bumper is to dampen the hit/vibrations.
Install one and you'll soften the hit. Maybe try a 'Limb-Saver'.
Please don't muck with the structure of this cue.

KJ
 
HawaiianEye said:
Aloha all,

I have come to the decision that I will "restore" this cue and get it back in my playing lineup. I have NO problem with changing the looks of it up a bit if it will "improve" its playing characteristics.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=273273&highlight=hawaiianeye+schmidt

The history of the cue is in the post listed. It has a "sentimental" value to me, but I like "playing" cues and not "wall" cues that are kept around as museum pieces.

I haven't played with this cue (save a few racks recently) in years, but it seems to hit a lot "harder" than my playing style cares for. I don't remember it ever hitting quite as hard when I first got it.

I know that one of the shafts may not be an "original" that was made for it when I bought it, but it was made by A.E. Schmidt as a replacement. From the pool hall owner's memory, he thinks he may have "snapped" one of the two original shafts after losing a BIG money match with it.

From my long-ago memory, I ordered BOTH shafts with 14mm specs, but they have since been turned down to 13mm or maybe even a bit less. The "replacement" shaft seems to have a "shinier" ferrule, which I'm sure is a different material than the other original shaft.

I think the harder hit of the cue may be the age, the metal joint with metal collars on the shafts, the tips, and the ferrules. I know the current tips (LePro) have to be years old and I'm sure leather hardens up with age.

Assuming all of the above can be "adjusted", what would you do to make a "softer" but "firm" hit? By firm, I mean 'solid"...I don't like the "plinkety plink" sounds or feel of really hard hitting cues.

I plan on having the butt cut down to a more modern size and I'm sure that will change the way it plays also.

I think the restoration-style of the butt sleeve will be dependent upon materials availability. I don't know if matching up the pearlescent rings can be easily done (I know one of them has a hairline crack).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Happy Holidays to ALL!
Click to expand...

The cue hits hard does it? IMHO - it likely has a lot to do with those
big old stainless steel collars on the shafts.

My humble suggestion... get a new shaft made with an Ivorine III ferrule
and a milk dud tip. A plain old black linen phenolic collar should do just fine.
They worked pretty well for a couple of guys named George and Gus who
made mostly steel jointed cues.

I'm going to hop up on my soapbox one more time to proclaim: WELL MADE
stainless jointed cues do not hit hard - I've made bunches of them.

Dale
 
Last edited:
KJ Cues said:
I don't see a bumper on this cue.
One of the tasks of a bumper is to dampen the hit/vibrations.
Install one and you'll soften the hit. Maybe try a 'Limb-Saver'.
Please don't muck with the structure of this cue.

KJ
Click to expand...

Since this discussion isn't about elephants, I will, once again, be marching
in lock step with Mr. KJ. Except I doubt a bumper will make enough of a change
to make you a happy cue owner/user.

In general, I applaud your preference for using cues to actually play pool
with. However, please don't futz around with this cue. It is a bit of history
and can't be un-converted once the deed is done. This is a re-worked
Hoppe or Titlist - as were soooooo many cues of that era.
I would be tempted to give you one of my Hoppes If you are so tempted
to redo something.

This is the 3rd time I have made the same plea - so I solemly swear I won't
do it again...

Dale
 
Last edited:
In the link you provided about this cue, it is identified as an A.E Schmidt S-12. since you bought it from them, that is kinda technically what it is...But they bought cues from cue company's such as Huebler, Viking, Adam National, and many cheapo Asian imports as well then gave them there own model number.

So it is still an A.E. Schmidt S-12, But is also a line cue made by someone else. I personally am 90% + certain it is a National.
 
HawaiianEye said:
Aloha all,

I have come to the decision that I will "restore" this cue and get it back in my playing lineup. I have NO problem with changing the looks of it up a bit if it will "improve" its playing characteristics.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=273273&highlight=hawaiianeye+schmidt

The history of the cue is in the post listed. It has a "sentimental" value to me, but I like "playing" cues and not "wall" cues that are kept around as museum pieces.

I haven't played with this cue (save a few racks recently) in years, but it seems to hit a lot "harder" than my playing style cares for. I don't remember it ever hitting quite as hard when I first got it.

I know that one of the shafts may not be an "original" that was made for it when I bought it, but it was made by A.E. Schmidt as a replacement. From the pool hall owner's memory, he thinks he may have "snapped" one of the two original shafts after losing a BIG money match with it.

From my long-ago memory, I ordered BOTH shafts with 14mm specs, but they have since been turned down to 13mm or maybe even a bit less. The "replacement" shaft seems to have a "shinier" ferrule, which I'm sure is a different material than the other original shaft.

I think the harder hit of the cue may be the age, the metal joint with metal collars on the shafts, the tips, and the ferrules. I know the current tips (LePro) have to be years old and I'm sure leather hardens up with age.

Assuming all of the above can be "adjusted", what would you do to make a "softer" but "firm" hit? By firm, I mean 'solid"...I don't like the "plinkety plink" sounds or feel of really hard hitting cues.

I plan on having the butt cut down to a more modern size and I'm sure that will change the way it plays also.

I think the restoration-style of the butt sleeve will be dependent upon materials availability. I don't know if matching up the pearlescent rings can be easily done (I know one of them has a hairline crack).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Happy Holidays to ALL!
Click to expand...
Removed, answered wrong post
 
jayman said:
In the link you provided about this cue, it is identified as an A.E Schmidt S-12. since you bought it from them, that is kinda technically what it is...But they bought cues from cue company's such as Huebler, Viking, Adam National, and many cheapo Asian imports as well then gave them there own model number.

So it is still an A.E. Schmidt S-12, But is also a line cue made by someone else. I personally am 90% + certain it is a National.
Click to expand...


This information is from Fred Schmidt (great great grandson of A.E. Schmidt) and the Schmidt brochure:

If you look at the top of the brochure it identifies who made the cues...V before the stock number indicates Viking...A indicates Adams...and S indicates a Schmidt cue. Schmidt cues were made in St. Louis at the company by Lloyd Bennett and there was also another guy names Bill Vanhoos.

Fred has a cue exactly like mine, except I think the pearlescent is green.
 
pdcue said:
I would be tempted to give you one of my Hoppes If you are so tempted
to redo something.

This is the 3rd time I have made the same plea - so I solemly swear I won't
do it again...

Dale
Click to expand...

What would it take to "tempt" you out of a Hoppe? Do you have blanks?

Aloha.
 
HawaiianEye said:
This information is from Fred Schmidt (great great grandson of A.E. Schmidt) and the Schmidt brochure:

If you look at the top of the brochure it identifies who made the cues...V before the stock number indicates Viking...A indicates Adams...and S indicates a Schmidt cue. Schmidt cues were made in St. Louis at the company by Lloyd Bennett and there was also another guy names Bill Vanhoos.

Fred has a cue exactly like mine, except I think the pearlescent is green.
Click to expand...

You made me dig out an old catalog. That is absolutely correct.
 
I have to agree with Mr. Perry on this stainless hit thing. I got to hit a few balls with a Balabushka many years back. The most amazing thing about it was how soft it hit. I was a relative newbie, but had been playing with a Schuler for a few years. The GB hit like a marshmallow in comparison.
 
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