Need some input on this cue!
- Thread starter TheJCat54
- Start date
Nice start I always like snake wood points...clean design
Good effort for the first try. I would clean up the diamond inlays on the next attempt. You can see the seems of the outline and a little bit where the cutter goes beyond the inlay pocket. Nothing to be ashamed of and I tell you this to help, not discourage. 
It doesn't look like FLOATING POINTS to me. It looks like "V" cut points with inlaid diamonds at the tips...JER
The overall size of the inlays are a little too large for my taste, but that could just be me. IMO, the smaller the better, to a point that is...
I once ordered a case from Jack Justis that he said was "sadle brown." When it arrived, it was the most butt ugly color of orange that I could imagine on a cue case. I called Jack, and he took it back without hesitation, but asked that I ship it back to him quickly so that he could take it to a show he was attending the next weekend, which I did. Shortly after the show he sent me an e-mail to tell me that was the very first case that sold at the show, and said "I guess there is a lid for every pot." The moral of the story is that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, so you might as well make what looks good to you. I have probably ordered a half dozen more Justis cases since...
I once ordered a case from Jack Justis that he said was "sadle brown." When it arrived, it was the most butt ugly color of orange that I could imagine on a cue case. I called Jack, and he took it back without hesitation, but asked that I ship it back to him quickly so that he could take it to a show he was attending the next weekend, which I did. Shortly after the show he sent me an e-mail to tell me that was the very first case that sold at the show, and said "I guess there is a lid for every pot." The moral of the story is that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, so you might as well make what looks good to you. I have probably ordered a half dozen more Justis cases since...
I'm not a proponent of anything on the end of points especially if they are V-groove points. Builders normally use inlays on the end of points only because they haven't the knowledge or ability to get their V-groove points even. I don't know if this is the case in this instance but that is always the impression that these type of inlays leave me. I'm sure some folks must like them as I see them often but as Mr Hoppe stated, they're just not my cup of tea.
Dick
Dick
The execution looks good but I think the diamonds are too big. They would look better smaller and you may want to mix up sizes. In other words smaller inlays in forearm and slightly larger in butt sleeve etc. Of course it can be in the eye of the beholder, but take a step back when creating a design and try to see it through someone eases eyes. I would also avoid inlays at the tips of points, it gives the impression you are hiding something.
I like spear heads on points, but I do think yours are a tad large. I've seen other makers with caps just as big as yours, so don't think for a second that there's a rule as to how big they can be.
Are these INLAYED POINTS? And where did you get the idea that there were??????????????...JER
TheJCat54
Registered
First off Thank you all for your input. It is most welcome. I will be using your advice in many future cue's.
The design is the customers idea. I also suggested that the spearheads be slightly smaller. He must be a Seminole football fan. LOL.
The points are floating inlays. They were done using the inlay machine I purchased from Chris Hightower. (Many Thanks Chris) I used pattern #6 and created a few stylus's that would bring the snake-wood to a point. I also cut them in lower on the forearm to give the appearance of the V-grove point.
As far as cleaning up around the arrow head points, I can only blame myself for trying to speed things up a bit. I got into a rush and this is how I will pay for it.
With all that said I wish to hear more from you all. I is encouraging to know that the effort to build cues as a profession has a good future!
Thanks once again
John Clow
P.S. I will be posting more in the near future!
The design is the customers idea. I also suggested that the spearheads be slightly smaller. He must be a Seminole football fan. LOL.
The points are floating inlays. They were done using the inlay machine I purchased from Chris Hightower. (Many Thanks Chris) I used pattern #6 and created a few stylus's that would bring the snake-wood to a point. I also cut them in lower on the forearm to give the appearance of the V-grove point.
As far as cleaning up around the arrow head points, I can only blame myself for trying to speed things up a bit. I got into a rush and this is how I will pay for it.
With all that said I wish to hear more from you all. I is encouraging to know that the effort to build cues as a profession has a good future!
Thanks once again
John Clow
P.S. I will be posting more in the near future!
id have to say i dont believe the large points are inlayed in one of the pics you can see the glue line in the venner, and those are some sharp inner points, something you dont see from a panto without alot of work and experience adn added money to th machine to get it done.
Maybe you inlaid the short points i cant see those to well, either way the cue looks fine for a first attemp at least in pics. when i had a panto you would really see everything after you turned the cue down and got some finish on it, and i was never happy with the results.
Good luck in the future.
Maybe you inlaid the short points i cant see those to well, either way the cue looks fine for a first attemp at least in pics. when i had a panto you would really see everything after you turned the cue down and got some finish on it, and i was never happy with the results.
Good luck in the future.
It is hard to tell on that cue but if he adds more veneers you can tel in a second. They will all be the same and not really have that tapered out look. Billy Stroud made a few with mitered inlayed pointy points. But they didn't fool you it was easy to tell the point was an inlay. The whole point is built first then inlayed as one piece.
TheJCat54
Registered
Trent, I wish to thank you for your comments. To further explain how I cut the points, allow me to elaborate. As stated above, I used the #6 Hightower inlay template. I created stylus size that allowed the tool to cut to a fine point on the pocket piece. I cut the pocket out as usual using the recommended stylus and the .055 bit. Cut Arrow Heads in then glued the point wood and veneers into the pocket. Hand cut the tip of each point out to place the arrow heads.
If That can't explain what was done then I have Fooled allot of very good cue-makers. I will post a few pics that will show the points in the production once I return to the shop this evening.
Thanks once again
John Clow
P.S. Chris Your Inlay Machine is the Shiznit. Keep up the good work!
Attachments
Last edited: