Initial Cad pic.
Instead of pictures in this thread, I have chosen to give you a link to my Albums page.
Here below,
http://forums.azbilliards.com/album.php?u=21094
Anyway, it is just a radius turning attachment but a little different.
I have taken some pics along the way, and have some cad images of what it should sort of look like.
In Taking the last pic tonight, I have noticed I had forgotten to put the bearing release holes in the Base Plate, See Pic 3,4,and 7 when the penny dropped.
Pic 1 - turning the base, with the last side of the radial T slot been done.
Pic 2 -Indicated bearing diameter, then pitched out the clamp holes and dowels for adapter for Myford, Taig does not need the adapter plate.-This is where I forgot the bearing release holes.The 3 blocks on the table were to check the tram of the Mill head.The tube with a slot in them are just quick setting pieces. They are 25mm different in length.(just saves time winding the depth stop)
Pic 3 -Clearance for my Taig ER40 Collet nut. At this stage, the straight part has been finished milled, as a rectangular slot. The block in the middle
will be used as a fixture to make the Radial T nuts and other Radial T slot attachments.I have indicated the corner radius of the shape. This is the coordinate reference diameter being set by a DTI, for pic 5.
Pic 4 -Being careful not to bump or move the DTI from it's radial position, 2 pins have been placed in the dowel holes. Some dowels were used as spacers for the 30 deg angle block. Just carefully rotate block against the fixed jaw until the dti is close to zero along the block.A Sine bar can be used if the angle is real important. But I like to make the angles fairly close, as at a latter stage, it can be used for a reference for something.
Pic 5 -Now the reason for indicating the radius of the known point earlier in pic3. Now bring in the dti to zero on the radius. Takes less than 20 seconds. Zero your numbers, be it digi read out or Dial position.
When you take the finishing cut, with the cutter that made the radius to start with, it will all match up. No guessing where the Intersect of the angle runs out.There we have the finish position of both X and Y.
It is best to have a roughing cutter as well as the finish.
When I finish this side, take out the finish cutter, and put back the DTI. Wind to X,Y zero, and reset DTI. Same again for the other side.
These procedures can be used for a lot of things. It is just knowing about it.
Pic 6 -Trepand a T Slot ring. Cut the 2 od grooves to give the shape. The trepan tool goes in about 0.6 mm longer than the part . Then Part off to 0.1mm on diameter. Because of material deformation, the part usually stays attached. Only run 200 rpm or so with a carbide blade, have it set up in such a way, that if it does come off, no damage can be done.
Then use a chisel to cut it off the block. Very easy and is done on the bench.
Update-
Pic 8 -Top-Plate, Drilled a hole for approx position of the pivot point.Then set up in 4 jay chuck and trepanned for the 40x52 bearing. Inner diameter is clearance on the base plate. The Ø52 is bored with with a small boring tool. I sized off the inner 10mm reference hole, doing this first.
I made a couple of cuts to get the diameter 10, checking that what I set the dial to is what I was getting.Then finish turned the diameter for the 52 of the bearing. The 4 jaw chuck is balanced buy using an other jaw , so the short side has 2 jaws stacked up.Then turned the other side, for the small thrust bearing and washer.Forgot camera and phone so no pics of the milling, But, trimmed one edge to be a reference, then drilled holes to match the Taig slide that is going to be used. Made sure the dowel holes are parallel to the pivot center line. Sized side edges, and bottom edge. Just the top radius to do most likely on rotary table.
Top plate finished. Fettled the edges to hide the milling cutter marks.
Pic 9 -Assembled, Base plate with Steel T slot nut for the Taig cross slide. The top slide is adjusted to min forward travel.
The radial stops are yet to be made,and the stop adjuster.
Next is to make the Router mounting block.
Instead of pictures in this thread, I have chosen to give you a link to my Albums page.
Here below,
http://forums.azbilliards.com/album.php?u=21094
Anyway, it is just a radius turning attachment but a little different.
I have taken some pics along the way, and have some cad images of what it should sort of look like.
In Taking the last pic tonight, I have noticed I had forgotten to put the bearing release holes in the Base Plate, See Pic 3,4,and 7 when the penny dropped.
Pic 1 - turning the base, with the last side of the radial T slot been done.
Pic 2 -Indicated bearing diameter, then pitched out the clamp holes and dowels for adapter for Myford, Taig does not need the adapter plate.-This is where I forgot the bearing release holes.The 3 blocks on the table were to check the tram of the Mill head.The tube with a slot in them are just quick setting pieces. They are 25mm different in length.(just saves time winding the depth stop)
Pic 3 -Clearance for my Taig ER40 Collet nut. At this stage, the straight part has been finished milled, as a rectangular slot. The block in the middle
will be used as a fixture to make the Radial T nuts and other Radial T slot attachments.I have indicated the corner radius of the shape. This is the coordinate reference diameter being set by a DTI, for pic 5.
Pic 4 -Being careful not to bump or move the DTI from it's radial position, 2 pins have been placed in the dowel holes. Some dowels were used as spacers for the 30 deg angle block. Just carefully rotate block against the fixed jaw until the dti is close to zero along the block.A Sine bar can be used if the angle is real important. But I like to make the angles fairly close, as at a latter stage, it can be used for a reference for something.
Pic 5 -Now the reason for indicating the radius of the known point earlier in pic3. Now bring in the dti to zero on the radius. Takes less than 20 seconds. Zero your numbers, be it digi read out or Dial position.
When you take the finishing cut, with the cutter that made the radius to start with, it will all match up. No guessing where the Intersect of the angle runs out.There we have the finish position of both X and Y.
It is best to have a roughing cutter as well as the finish.
When I finish this side, take out the finish cutter, and put back the DTI. Wind to X,Y zero, and reset DTI. Same again for the other side.
These procedures can be used for a lot of things. It is just knowing about it.
Pic 6 -Trepand a T Slot ring. Cut the 2 od grooves to give the shape. The trepan tool goes in about 0.6 mm longer than the part . Then Part off to 0.1mm on diameter. Because of material deformation, the part usually stays attached. Only run 200 rpm or so with a carbide blade, have it set up in such a way, that if it does come off, no damage can be done.
Then use a chisel to cut it off the block. Very easy and is done on the bench.
Update-
Pic 8 -Top-Plate, Drilled a hole for approx position of the pivot point.Then set up in 4 jay chuck and trepanned for the 40x52 bearing. Inner diameter is clearance on the base plate. The Ø52 is bored with with a small boring tool. I sized off the inner 10mm reference hole, doing this first.
I made a couple of cuts to get the diameter 10, checking that what I set the dial to is what I was getting.Then finish turned the diameter for the 52 of the bearing. The 4 jaw chuck is balanced buy using an other jaw , so the short side has 2 jaws stacked up.Then turned the other side, for the small thrust bearing and washer.Forgot camera and phone so no pics of the milling, But, trimmed one edge to be a reference, then drilled holes to match the Taig slide that is going to be used. Made sure the dowel holes are parallel to the pivot center line. Sized side edges, and bottom edge. Just the top radius to do most likely on rotary table.
Top plate finished. Fettled the edges to hide the milling cutter marks.
Pic 9 -Assembled, Base plate with Steel T slot nut for the Taig cross slide. The top slide is adjusted to min forward travel.
The radial stops are yet to be made,and the stop adjuster.
Next is to make the Router mounting block.
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