nelsonite
- Thread starter the breed
- Start date
Just thin down some good sanding sealer and wipe a thin coat between turnings. Doesnt soak in like nelsonite but it helps regulate moisture exchange.
Dipping outside of the shop would be good enough.
30 seconds will be long enough.
Wear a respirator and gloves.
Let the woods dry outside or in a sealed drum inside the shop.
It's a nasty chemical.
You can still smell it after taking a MM off the dowels.
Quit dipping at 14.25 MM IMO.
You will need a very good dust collection on your taperin
machine if you use it. You have to wear a respirator or second air
when turning dipped dowels. Get rid of that dust right away.
Treat it as hazmat.
30 seconds will be long enough.
Wear a respirator and gloves.
Let the woods dry outside or in a sealed drum inside the shop.
It's a nasty chemical.
You can still smell it after taking a MM off the dowels.
Quit dipping at 14.25 MM IMO.
You will need a very good dust collection on your taperin
machine if you use it. You have to wear a respirator or second air
when turning dipped dowels. Get rid of that dust right away.
Treat it as hazmat.
I second the recommendation of sealer between cuts. I use bullseye wax free shellac sealer, it is much safer and easy to use.
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I don't use any dip or sealer between cuts. I let the wood do what it wants to. If it goes bad I want to see it happen and I cull it. I like to let a finished butt hang around a few weeks before I seal and finish it.
I treat the shafts and the butts the same. no treatment.....
Kim
I treat the shafts and the butts the same. no treatment.....
Kim
We sold Nelsonite at one time and it is still used by many top cue makers. We carried a product called Resolute which was equivalent to Nelsonite but with must less of the Naptha and hence much less odor. The chemical diapates after a couple weeks but you will still get the odor through cutting the shaft down through the sizes. Both products did an excellent job and work well; they still do. If you are set-up for them then the odor is not an issue. If not, it's dangerous. We no longer sell either product because we have found successful alternatives.
We have since turned to an excellent product which is water bassed and earth friendly. It works real well and stays clear.
Some fellows are using sanding sealers, shellacs and God only knows what else. These products are fine for sealing wood but tend to turn the wood darker because some are amber in color and others yellow due to their chemical composition. This is fine for some and not for others. There are many choices out there.
We have since turned to an excellent product which is water bassed and earth friendly. It works real well and stays clear.
Some fellows are using sanding sealers, shellacs and God only knows what else. These products are fine for sealing wood but tend to turn the wood darker because some are amber in color and others yellow due to their chemical composition. This is fine for some and not for others. There are many choices out there.
I tried Joe's new shaft sealer, and promised a honest review. If sponged on liberally it soaks in a little and hardens the surface slighly. It does a good job of sealing. I think dipping an inch or so of the two ends of shaft in it far a minute or so before starting the turning process is a good idea. That would totally seal the ends of the shaft through the whole turning process. It raises the grain slightly, but that sands out easy enough. I am not sure if it stabilizes the cue as well as Nelsonite, but it is a real good sealer to use after the final cut before sanding.
So I am using it before sanding. Then I final seal with my shaft sealer, sand with 600 and wax. It works out really good. I would not think it is the right sealer for repair work when reconditioning the shaft, (although it might work for that), but is more of a replacement for Nelsonite. I have not tried it under the cue cote yet, but plan too. I suspect it will stop the wood from breathing into the finish causing unwanted bubbles.
So I am using it before sanding. Then I final seal with my shaft sealer, sand with 600 and wax. It works out really good. I would not think it is the right sealer for repair work when reconditioning the shaft, (although it might work for that), but is more of a replacement for Nelsonite. I have not tried it under the cue cote yet, but plan too. I suspect it will stop the wood from breathing into the finish causing unwanted bubbles.
Chris...
Thanks very much for that as it was greatly appreciated and a breath of fresh air. We no longer sell Nelsonite or Resolute. The product we're discussing here is an excellent product and a great substitution for Nelsonite and Resolute. In fact, it's great for all wood products. If you need specifics, please email us directly.
For the record, Nelsonite and Resolute are not HazMat products.
Thanks very much for that as it was greatly appreciated and a breath of fresh air. We no longer sell Nelsonite or Resolute. The product we're discussing here is an excellent product and a great substitution for Nelsonite and Resolute. In fact, it's great for all wood products. If you need specifics, please email us directly.
For the record, Nelsonite and Resolute are not HazMat products.
It'll probably give them cancer too.
But, as one infamous retired cue factory owner said, everything in cue making is a health risk.
http://www.conwaycleveland.com/wood_stabilizers.html
There is no mention of termite protection.
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Duroseal sounds interesting and may be a good substitute if it wasn't for the fact that it takes 30+ minutes or more to dry. That's too bad as it's priced right. But, what good is a product if its priced right when it doesn't do what you need it to do. Oh well.
It's best to buy Nelsonite directly from the manufacturer and not any reseller unless they are selling it at the same price as the manufacturer. You can reach the manufacturer at: (616) 456-7098.
But... I'm still thoroughly amazed! :shocked2:
It's best to buy Nelsonite directly from the manufacturer and not any reseller unless they are selling it at the same price as the manufacturer. You can reach the manufacturer at: (616) 456-7098.
But... I'm still thoroughly amazed! :shocked2: