new collets, anyone try this???

BHQ

BHQ

we'll miss you
Silver Member
i meant NEW to me :D
i ran into an old friend i used to shoot league with a few years ago
i never knew he is a machinist
he stopped over to my place and said to try collets like this
turned to a #5mt
i've made 5 different sizes
have to make some for thru the spindle yet
i'll let you all know how it works out

DSCF3069.jpg
 
Most of my collets are straight OD and have a tapered ID that matches my cues.

I don't have much experience with collet closers as of yet.....I would assume that there is a collet closer that threads on over the exposed threads shown?

A tapered OD collet that fits inside a tapered spindle would give you the most contact and prolly the best accuracy?!! IMHO>
(ER collets, etc.)

Can you elaborate more on your set-up?
Thanks.
Chris
 
Poulos Cues said:
Most of my collets are straight OD and have a tapered ID that matches my cues.

I don't have much experience with collet closers as of yet.....I would assume that there is a collet closer that threads on over the exposed threads shown?

A tapered OD collet that fits inside a tapered spindle would give you the most contact and prolly the best accuracy?!! IMHO>
(ER collets, etc.)

Can you elaborate more on your set-up?
Thanks.
Chris
Click to expand...
i mentioned i still have to make the tapered collets for inside the spindle. there is no need for a closer with this setup. i just tap it in with a hammmer and slide shaft thru the tapered ID. all of this is at my buddies suggestion. he says he's been using collets like this for years, so i figured i'd give it a try
 
Are you using Delrin or Teflon?
Do you have a chuck on the other end of the spindle?

If not, I could foresee some slipage without the collets being split, and possibly denting the wood??

Have you seen the article posted here from DZ Cues? He did a great write-up on using a steady rest for facing the shaft and other machining operations...works well, trust me! :)

Keep us posted on your results....;)

Chris
 
Poulos Cues said:
Are you using Delrin or Teflon?
Do you have a chuck on the other end of the spindle?

If not, I could foresee some slipage without the collets being split, and possibly denting the wood??

Have you seen the article posted here from DZ Cues? He did a great write-up on using a steady rest for facing the shaft and other machining operations...works well, trust me! :)

Keep us posted on your results....;)

Chris
Click to expand...
these are delrin. i'm worried about it slipping also. that's why "the let ya know how it works" ;) i can push the shaft in there pretty doggone tight with live center.where that i have to tap it back out with a hammer
 
BHQ said:
these are delrin. i'm worried about it slipping also. that's why "the let ya know how it works" ;) i can push the shaft in there pretty doggone tight with live center.where that i have to tap it back out with a hammer
Click to expand...

Actually, the use of the spindle Morse Taper for non adjustable collets is a very bad idea. That taper is put there to accommodate other appliances to run true with the spindle. It's mainly used for turning between centers with a face plate and dogs. If you intend just using collets then you would need many hundreds of them. Someone like Joe Gold who makes all of his cue components to an exact size and never deviates from these sizes can benefit from a set-up like this but if you are limited to less than 10 or 12 lathes and all your components haven't been turned to within a .001 or so it will be a waste of time. I can't hardly believe a machinist would recommend this route for a lathe that is going to be doing more than one operation over an extended period of time.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
Actually, the use of the spindle Morse Taper for non adjustable collets is a very bad idea. That taper is put there to accommodate other appliances to run true with the spindle. It's mainly used for turning between centers with a face plate and dogs. If you intend just using collets then you would need many hundreds of them. Someone like Joe Gold who makes all of his cue components to an exact size and never deviates from these sizes can benefit from a set-up like this but if you are limited to less than 10 or 12 lathes and all your components haven't been turned to within a .001 or so it will be a waste of time. I can't hardly believe a machinist would recommend this route for a lathe that is going to be doing more than one operation over an extended period of time.

Dick
Click to expand...
i should have explained more thouroughly. just using these for shafts joints only
 
I wonder?

If even for shaft joints it is worth using the Morse taper collet to hold the shaft? I am assuming that you will depend on the rear chuck to keep the shaft from pulling out a little then running loose?
I still use the center rest with a bearing for the more critical boring tasks like joints. I am sure there are many ways to do the job though, let us know how you like it after using it for awhile please. I am curious.
 
olsonsview said:
If even for shaft joints it is worth using the Morse taper collet to hold the shaft? I am assuming that you will depend on the rear chuck to keep the shaft from pulling out a little then running loose?
I still use the center rest with a bearing for the more critical boring tasks like joints. I am sure there are many ways to do the job though, let us know how you like it after using it for awhile please. I am curious.
Click to expand...
sent you pm
brent
 
Collets

BHQ,
You might try this. Cut some slits in your collets so you can give them some 'range', that way you won't need so many of them. Next, make a cap that screws on to the threads of your spindle which, as it is tightened, will draw your collet into the spindle thereby tightening it on the shaft or whatever.
Depending on how accurately you make the collets will
determine how true the shaft spins.
I think the idea has merit & if done correctly, you could realize reasonable accuracy. KJ
 
KJ Cues said:
BHQ,
You might try this. Cut some slits in your collets so you can give them some 'range', that way you won't need so many of them. Next, make a cap that screws on to the threads of your spindle which, as it is tightened, will draw your collet into the spindle thereby tightening it on the shaft or whatever.
Depending on how accurately you make the collets will
determine how true the shaft spins.
I think the idea has merit & if done correctly, you could realize reasonable accuracy. KJ
Click to expand...

Or, get some real MT collets...

Dale
 
pdcue said:
Or, get some real MT collets...

Dale
Click to expand...
Will "real " morse taper collets dent wood? I don't know and was wondering...

I would think Teflon or Delrin would be the way to go....Morse taper collets made from it that is...

I was thinking he should split the collet he has shown and use the nut as well...................??

Chris
 
Poulos Cues said:
Will "real " morse taper collets dent wood? I don't know and was wondering...

I would think Teflon or Delrin would be the way to go....Morse taper collets made from it that is...

I was thinking he should split the collet he has shown and use the nut as well...................??

Chris
Click to expand...

Dents, schments, unless you are at final size, they will be turned out
by later machining

Otherwise, metal collet - thin Delrin sleeve

Dale
 
olsonsview said:
If even for shaft joints it is worth using the Morse taper collet to hold the shaft? I am assuming that you will depend on the rear chuck to keep the shaft from pulling out a little then running loose?
I still use the center rest with a bearing for the more critical boring tasks like joints. I am sure there are many ways to do the job though, let us know how you like it after using it for awhile please. I am curious.
Click to expand...
did two shaft joints today with this setup.
so far so good.
it held tight , no slippage or movement.
by the way, i'm not saying this is any better or worse than any other method.
it was just something a friend suggested, thought i'd give it a whirl and see
can always learn something from everyone then apply what works for me :D
 
Last edited:
BarenbruggeCues said:
I was thinking why not just use a chuck?
5C?......6 jaw adjust?.....3 jaw adjust?.....2 jaw adjust?.......
Click to expand...

Terminal fugwithititis?

Dale<cue dectective doctor>
 
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