New Maple Shaft Recommendations

FeelDaShot

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a mint condition Meucci Pro Series 2 that I got a great deal on. Here's a link to the cue for reference: http://meuccicues.com/pro-series-2.html

Unfortunately, the cue came with a low deflection Meucci shaft that I have no use for since I play with a standard maple shaft. I would like to get a new shaft for the cue and I'm looking for recommendations.

Do I buy a standard maple shaft from Meucci or would I be better off sending it off to a custom cue maker? Meucci said they would make a standard maple shaft with the matching ringwork for $200 shipped. I'm looking for something in the same general price range with a max of around $250.

What are some of the best custom shaft makers out there?

Also, do you think it will be difficult for a custom cue maker to match the ringwork?
 
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If you want that shaft to be conventional, all you need to is to have the ferrule replaced.
 
If you want that shaft to be conventional, all you need to is to have the ferrule replaced.

Why do you say that? Meucci offers 4 different shafts:

1. Classic No Dot
2. Red Dot (Low Deflection)
3. Black Dot Bullseye (Low Deflection)
4. "The Pro" (Low Deflection)

I have #4 "The Pro" shaft. I find it hard to believe that the ferrule is the only difference. But I'm no expert. Please explain.
 
Get the ferrule replaced and have a full tenon for the next ferrule.
It becomes a conventional shaft after that .
If there is a hole in the middle, it can be plugged up with maple as well.

Black Dot is plywood

The rest are one piece shafts.
 
Get the ferrule replaced and have a full tenon for the next ferrule.
It becomes a conventional shaft after that .
If there is a hole in the middle, it can be plugged up with maple as well.

Black Dot is plywood

The rest are one piece shafts.[/QUOTE

I appreciate the advice but I just called Meucci and they said there is a lot more than just the ferrule that makes it LD. Changing the ferrule will help but it won’t fix the problem.
 
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Get the ferrule replaced and have a full tenon for the next ferrule.
It becomes a conventional shaft after that .
If there is a hole in the middle, it can be plugged up with maple as well.

Black Dot is plywood

The rest are one piece shafts.[/QUOTE

I appreciate the advice but I just called Meucci and they said there is a lot more than just the ferrule that makes it LD. Changing the ferrule will help but it won’t fix the problem.



Correct. The ferrule is different. Also, the front end of the shaft is drilled out and plugged with a lightweight wood. I don't think it makes sense to attempt to "fix" all these issues when a simple piece of solid maple is easily available from any cue maker.

KMRUNOUT


Sent from my iPhone using AzBilliards Forums
 
Correct. The ferrule is different. Also, the front end of the shaft is drilled out and plugged with a lightweight wood. I don't think it makes sense to attempt to "fix" all these issues when a simple piece of solid maple is easily available from any cue maker.

KMRUNOUT


Sent from my iPhone using AzBilliards Forums
The Pro is kinda like a Mezz, solid with a lightened front-end as stated above. Have you even tried it? I was very impressed with how it played when a friend let me try his. To be honest the difference in LD and non-LD is not very much. I have my own informal, but consistent, test and the only shafts(wood) that showed marked defl. reduction were the conical OB and Predator.
 
The Pro is kinda like a Mezz, solid with a lightened front-end as stated above. Have you even tried it? I was very impressed with how it played when a friend let me try his. To be honest the difference in LD and non-LD is not very much. I have my own informal, but consistent, test and the only shafts(wood) that showed marked defl. reduction were the conical OB and Predator.

Yes, I tried it and it hits good. I just don’t want to change my aiming to play with a LD shaft. Four years ago I switched from a LD shaft to a maple shaft. Having a LD shaft makes it difficult to play with house cues. It also makes it difficult to shop for a new custom cue when you have to switch out the shaft. Otherwise it was okay but not any better or worse. Just different.
 
Plywood, that’s funny, But who knows.
Doesn’t matter, carbon fiber will make it all obsolete
 
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I’m surprised that I haven’t recieved one recommendation for a cue maker or at least an opinion on the quality of a Meucci maple shaft compared to a custom maple shaft. Is one more or less likely to warp over time than the other?
 
I would give Schmelke a call. They are easy to work with, have great products and great prices.
 
If you want that shaft to be conventional, all you need to is to have the ferrule replaced.

Exactly what I was going to say. Have Meucci do it for $200, then put a new ferrule and tip on locally. If you want matching ringwork that is the way to go.

I think the Meucci standard maple shafts play great. You'll get some good ones and some dogs. But, the same can be said of any cuemaker. I had a Scruggs cue one time that hit terrible. Beautiful cue that played like a dog. On the other hand, I've hit with Scruggs cues that were magical.

ANY shaft can warp over time. Wood is wood. Make sure it's straight when you get it, and take care of it. Even if you do that, it can still warp. It probably won't...but, no guarantees whether it's Meucci or Searing.
 
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Exactly what I was going to say. Have Meucci do it for $200, then put a new ferrule and tip on locally. If you want matching ringwork that is the way to go.

I think the Meucci standard maple shafts play great. You'll get some good ones and some dogs. But, the same can be said of any cuemaker. I had a Scruggs cue one time that hit terrible. Beautiful cue that played like a dog. On the other hand, I've hit with Scruggs cues that were magical.

ANY shaft can warp over time. Wood is wood. Make sure it's straight when you get it, and take care of it. Even if you do that, it can still warp. It probably won't...but, no guarantees whether it's Meucci or Searing.

Thanks Matt, good advice here. For $200, Meucci will make a new standard maple shaft with the matching ringwork so there is no need to change out the ferrule. This is the direction I'm leaning towards unless someone can tell me a reason why I should go to someone else.
 
Thanks Matt, good advice here. For $200, Meucci will make a new standard maple shaft with the matching ringwork so there is no need to change out the ferrule. This is the direction I'm leaning towards unless someone can tell me a reason why I should go to someone else.

I think that sounds like a great deal. I know others will say negative things, but I've had great luck with the Meucci's I've owned.

Better yet, order the new Meucci CF Pro with matching rings. It'll never warp, or dent, or wear out. :)
 
Thanks Matt, good advice here. For $200, Meucci will make a new standard maple shaft with the matching ringwork so there is no need to change out the ferrule. This is the direction I'm leaning towards unless someone can tell me a reason why I should go to someone else.

You change the ferrule because IMO Meucci ferrules are terrible and will crack very shortly. You might as well change it from the get-go.
 
The Pro is kinda like a Mezz, solid with a lightened front-end as stated above. Have you even tried it? I was very impressed with how it played when a friend let me try his. To be honest the difference in LD and non-LD is not very much. I have my own informal, but consistent, test and the only shafts(wood) that showed marked defl. reduction were the conical OB and Predator.



Yes, I've hit with the Pro shaft many times. It is certainly LD, but not in the same category as Predator or OB with regard to amount of deflection. It seems we agree on that fact that there are kinda LD shafts, and very LD shafts.

KMRUNOUT


Sent from my iPhone using AzBilliards Forums
 
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