New power for old Porpers

conetip said:
You could always just turn down the existing to a smaller diameter if it is solid enough, or just get some ali bar and make one.
Fairly easy to make, might just take time.
Neil
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Neil- That's a good idea but there's not enough meat on the pulley to do it. Also, I'm nearing the practical limit as to how small I can go with this belt size, which I want to keep if I can.
I'm going to leave it as it is until I have a larger spindle pulley ready. It seems to run very well even geared a bit to tall as it is..

Robin Snyder
 
So now I've put a little milage on this new motor.

You know that feeling you get the first time you drive your car after some serious performance mods and you step on the accelerator hard ? It's like that.

I've been drilling .758" core holes all day in ebony, African and Burmese blackwood, hard curly maple, BI maple, assorted burls, bubinga, camatillo rosewood and two sneaky pete blanks, maple/ bubinga and maple/goncalo alves. It never hesitated.
This new motor was never anything other than cold the whole time.

The motor indeed needs lower gearing but if i changed nothing the thing is absolutely outstanding, and has vastly more power right through the rev range I used. I loaded it up very, very hard to stall it, which I could barely do. The fuse never blew and nothing got even warm.

Try about a 22-23 " belt with the stock spindle pulley and smaller than stock motor pulley, with the motor mount at stock height.
The motor runs 3450RPM flat out. I'm going to shoot for 2.3:1 reduction, giving a top spindle speed of 1500 rpm, perhaps even 2.5:1, which is 1380. The torque should be wild.

I think this is a good thing to contemplate for anyone who thinks their Porper B is underpowered when doing heavy duty work. It's so cheap , quick and easy.

For $130 for the motor + $5 for the smaller motor pulley. $5 for the new belt. 3 bolts shorter than those supplied for mounting. About 30 minutes total time.

Best thing I've done in a while.

Robin Snyder
 
Got mine today. To say I am impressed would be a gross understatement.. Comes with extra brushes, brake pad and fuse.

Looks like it would be easy to make a smaller pulley.

Not sure what I am going to do with it, but I am sure it will be up to the task!

Larry
 
They're monsters Larry. Oodles of power. The speed control is very good too with great torque all over the place.
I've never seen anything this nice even for lots more money.

Robin Snyder
 
Why do you say it's to big for a taig?Is it because it won't fit on top of the headstock or it has too much power?My deluxe has a much larger motor than that but it fits on the same deck that the bed sits on.Just wondering,It sure looks good.I think I'll spring for it....Rick.
 
rick9005 said:
Why do you say it's to big for a taig?Is it because it won't fit on top of the headstock or it has too much power?My deluxe has a much larger motor than that but it fits on the same deck that the bed sits on.Just wondering,It sure looks good.I think I'll spring for it....Rick.
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Thanks for posting on this. I'll bet you're not the only one rolling their eyes.
I'm pretty ignorant on Taig stuff.
I always thought that the motor on a Taig type lathe mounted on the headstock.
Now the pictures I've seen of a Deluxe make much more sense.
With that known, I would think it would be great for one of those lathes. I just couldn't see how it was going to slide anywhere hanging off that headstock.

I own some Taig type parts which I've accumulated that I was going to put together a lathe with but to tell the truth I have hardly researched it yet. It sounds like I'll be buying another one of these.

What kind of motor is on your Deluxe?
It's variable speed and more than 3/4HP? Tell me more!
There is no such thing as too much power.

If you do spring for one, gear it down as far as you can. The performance is much better. When my new motor pulleys arrive in a couple days, I'll post how it does. I don't know how big your spindle pulley is, but as fast as these motors will spin, you want to gear it right down. I'm beginning to think that around 2.5-3:1 is going to be the sweet spot.

Robin Snyder
 
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more ideas....

Another realization I had is that the motor would also fit in the back of a Porper instead of the top. You'd just have to slightly modify the original sheet metal. This might be the very best way to go because you could keep the stock tray top/collet rack which are handy.

Robin Snyder
 
The motor is a marathon 1/2 horse fixed speed.I change speeds by changing pulleys.There is three on the motor and three on the headstock.I'd rather twist a little knob.Thanks for all the info,very helpfull. After thinking about it I think I'll put the three pulleys on the new motor,It'll make it more versatile....Rick.
 
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As I recall, a deluxe has a pretty huge spindle pulley, so your gearing may well be in the ballpark right out of the box.
Besides not having to fool with pulleys and belts to change speeds, the difference in power is like night and day. It will be a whole new machine.

Robin Snyder
 
does it seem like it has braking resistor or does it take a minute to spool down?
 
other types of motor brakes...

The mechanical brake on these motors works well; I don't have mine working just yet.

If you are using some other motor without a mechanical brake, as far as I know, any permanent magnet field DC motor with brushes can be made to stop quickly by using dynamic braking, This is simply electrically connecting the + and- sides of the motor to each other after the power has been cut.

Use a double pole, triple throw of/on switch with a spring loaded momentary contact 3rd position. Top position is on... connects power to the motor, Center position is off...disconnects power from motor. Bottom position, which is spring loaded back toward off...connects the two sides of the motor together when pressed down against the spring and goes back to center(off) when released. Works great. Stop's 'em fast. Very old trick. I've known of it over 50 years.

It does not work on wound field motors or motors without brushes, or on AC motors.
Edit: someone just told me this works on universal motors too. Does anyone else know this?

Robin Snyder

PS- If you get more braking than you want, add a resistor between the two bottom terminals of the switch. Take a resistance reading across the motor brushes and start with this much resistance across the brake contacts on the switch, then go from there.
Less resistance = more braking.
 
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i saw one of these in person earlier...would probably be wise to get one now before the seller gets wise. If i built cue lathes for a living then i'd go ahead and buy them all.
 
The supplied pulley will fit a deluxe belt. With the largest pulley on the headstock. There is about 1/3 reduction of speed, but it is still to fast. With a smaller pulley this should be an easy bolt on, upgrade for older Deluxes.

Larry
 
Hey guys... Bringing an old thread to life.... Im going to be putting a new motor on my Porper B lathe. Wondering where Carguy got the rear chuck / pulley for his setup? Im not sure where I will mount the motor yet, but will need a pulley to power it. I have the rear chuck from Cuesmith. Anyone know where to pick up one of these pulleys? I sent Carguy a message but it said his inbox was full. Thanks for any info..
 
Chris himself posted pics a while back that showed he is indeed using these same motors on the Deluxe now,apparently for over a year now :thumbup:. Tommy D.
 
Tommy-D said:
Chris himself posted pics a while back that showed he is indeed using these same motors on the Deluxe now,apparently for over a year now :thumbup:. Tommy D.
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You are correct. I have one on my Taig based lathe. I want to add the same motor to my Porper B.
 
Is the pulley that is shown in picture the original that comes on the Porper B? I havent looked inside yet to see.. Porper B with sewing motor.jpg
 
Pulley

Hi captainjko,
My inbox is open now.
Yes, the pully on the lathe is the original one that comes on a Porper lathe. I made a small pully for the motor out of aluminium. It's still not geared low enough for my taste though and if I used this lathe more I would make a simple jackshaft to gear it lower, but a larger pully on the spindle would work too.
Someone else posted details of their installation of one of these motors on his lathe. His is rather nicer than mine and worth a look. I can't remember who it was. KC perhaps? Worth a look.

Edit...I think I would mount the motor on the back instead of the top if I did this again. It works fine as is though.

Robin Snyder
 
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