New Product (Slip Stic)

I ordered Zardoz a while back and have been using it with success. However I can't say that the end result is significantly better than repeated burnishing with leather or something else... dollar bills etc.

I do like the Zardoz on the handle of my wood handle cues. I llke them slick and Zardoz is dammed sure slick. So...if your product is like Zardoz in that respect and is packaged similarily it ought to be sucessful..imo, as using it will eliminate the need for oft repeated burnishing.
 
Okie Al said:
Pete,
Have you experimented with SlipStic on fiberglass clad shafts?

Alan
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Yes. It is still slicker than wax wherever it is applied however the best results are on wood shafts. This was our primary focus. Instead of applying onto your fiberglass shaft, just add a drop onto your bridge fingers and it works great. I have been told better than a glove.
 
JimS said:
I ordered Zardoz a while back and have been using it with success. However I can't say that the end result is significantly better than repeated burnishing with leather or something else... dollar bills etc.

I do like the Zardoz on the handle of my wood handle cues. I llke them slick and Zardoz is dammed sure slick. So...if your product is like Zardoz in that respect and is packaged similarily it ought to be sucessful..imo, as using it will eliminate the need for oft repeated burnishing.
Click to expand...

SlipStic has some of the characteristics of that product and Zardoz is a great product indeed (best in the market), it is equal in slickness (we tested slightly better when applied to wood). We tested the Zardoz product in our early phase trying to find something that already existed. We fell in love with their packaging. Be careful though, Zardoz will pit your shaft as the chemicals will penetrate the wood, Additionally you need to be careful about getting product in your eyes or on your skin for to long. There are different variations, like with any compounds, were you can maintain certain characteristics just as in oil based products and how they are processed. Our product is different as it is meant specifically for wood cue shafts and more importantly to not harm you in any way. The most important priority was not to involve ourselves with chemical products in our formula that could even remotely affect anyone. For this reason alone we stayed away from petrochemicals. Additionally we required that the end product was as harmless as a non-allergenic skin lotion. This was a must. Sorry to bother you with this long post. But this is is very important to us.
 
I tried to order but what's this "print and call" as the only payment option garbage? I dropped the order...too much hassle. Maybe later.
 
JimS said:
I tried to order but what's this "print and call" as the only payment option garbage? I dropped the order...too much hassle. Maybe later.
Click to expand...

Hi Jim,

For a short period of time we are processing orders using this method. This is for quality assurance during our initial launch. This will soon change once we have proved order processing and product distribution are smoothly in sync. I will let you know when. Thanks.
 
pete lafond said:
Hi Jim,

For a short period of time we are processing orders using this method. This is for quality assurance during our initial launch. This will soon change once we have proved order processing and product distribution are smoothly in sync. I will let you know when. Thanks.
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If I buy this stuff, and after application, I don't like the feel, How much trouble is it to remove? Is there something that neutralizes this stuff or will a light sanding get rid of it?

Thanks.
 
sliprock said:
If I buy this stuff, and after application, I don't like the feel, How much trouble is it to remove? Is there something that neutralizes this stuff or will a light sanding get rid of it?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

It does wear off over time. 6 weeks or so. You can speed the process with a good shaft cleaner or if you want to be quick - light sanding.
 
pete lafond said:
It does wear off over time. 6 weeks or so. You can speed the process with a good shaft cleaner or if you want to be quick - light sanding.
Click to expand...
Pete, have you opened a Paypal account yet?
I think it'd make ordering much easier.
 
Sealers ?

Mike,

You mentioned that when you will use Slip Stic as part of your shaft cleaning process, you stated that after you clean the shaft you'll apply a shaft sealer, then Slip Stic.

What kind of sealer do you use on your shaft after you clean it? Is there a product that I could purchase for this purpose? I'm not a cue maker, I just really appreciate the performance of a good cue. I'm looking forward to useing Slip Stic and I want to make sure that I do everything possible to obtain the best result.

Thanks, Tom Richert
 
Tommyd said:
Mike,

You mentioned that when you will use Slip Stic as part of your shaft cleaning process, you stated that after you clean the shaft you'll apply a shaft sealer, then Slip Stic.

What kind of sealer do you use on your shaft after you clean it? Is there a product that I could purchase for this purpose? I'm not a cue maker, I just really appreciate the performance of a good cue. I'm looking forward to useing Slip Stic and I want to make sure that I do everything possible to obtain the best result.

Thanks, Tom Richert
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Hi Tom:
Do you have a lathe or just by hand. The chemicals I buy then add goodies to require a lathe.
 
Sealer

Mike,

I will be doing this by hand.

I researched some of the forums regarding shaft cleaners/sealers, etc. in the," Ask the Cue Makers Forums", after I wrote that question to you, and I did get a lot of information from you guy's.

Zim's Rack wrote that Chris Hightower's web-site had some good products, but I did'nt see anything listed.

I have been using, Q-SMOOTH Micro-Burnishing slips for some time now and I like the way they leave my shaft after the final burnishing (Yellow Slip).

Like I said, I'm going to try Pete Lafonds new product and I want to obtain the best performance I can.

I currently shoot with a Richard Black-Bushka, love it. I went to your web-site and your cue's are beautiful. I'm going to start saving!!!

In my past life, I have owned a cue by Craig Peterson, that he made for me in Evansten Ill. ( It was a Titlist-House Cue, cut in half and a joint added-Brass, and white linen w/green specs ) and two Rambows.

I went to Herman's shop just outside of the Loop in Chicago, I believe it was on Wabash, second floor, I think about 1964. I won one in a game and bought one from Rambow. Don't ever play when you don't feel like it, guess where those beautiful cue's went, bye! :(

Thanks so much for all your help, I really appreciate it.

Tom Richert-Michigan ;)

Oh yeh, Ive learned a lesson-Never put up your cue when you loose all your money. :D
 
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That's a good story. Thanks for sharing. The last sentence help me learn a lot about cues. I use to buy when players went off, then take them apart.
 
Question for Mike or Pete?

Mike,

I was notified by Pete today that he will be shipping the Slip Stic soon. My question to either you, or Pete is this.

I have an Ivory Ferrule on my shaft. I know that Ivory has to be able to breath and have some moisture to it. I was told by Richard Black to apply,
" Baby Oil " once in a while to keep it in good shape. Will Slip Stic cause it any harm if some gets on it? If Slip Stic repels moisture, will the Ivory Ferrule dry out?

Looking forward to your comments.

Thanks, Tom R
 
Hi Tom
It will not harm the ivory, I have always played with ivory and I have never put anything extra on it because it was ivory.
 
Hi Pete,

I would like to try your product. Hope you'll have PayPal as a payment method.

Thanx
 
I'm interested in this Slip Stic stuff. However, I'm currently using a product that works just fine for me, I've had no problems with it, it repels water and humidity, and makes the shaft very slick, too. Most of the shafts for my cues have been retapered, and after I did the retapering and sanding and so on, I'd "whisker" them to get the grain ends to rise, then remove them, sanding down to 640 wet/dry paper. After all this I took the product I'm writing about and sprayed it on, and let it soak in for several minutes, then wiped all the excess off. Followed with paper towels to remove any excess. Worked and works like a charm. What is this product? WD-40.

No complaints about it.

How is Slip Stic better?

Thanks!

Flex
 
newo9277 said:
You use WD-40 on a shaft?
Does it discolor it?
Click to expand...

I've used it on many of them. Discolor isn't the word I'd use to describe it. It gets a bit darker, just as it would if you put water on raw wood. The color just looks normal to me. It certainly doesn't make it "dark" or anything like that. To get an idea what it looks like, if you have an old cue that you don't care about, or a piece of maple, sand it down like I did and make it really smooth as if you're going to use it for a shaft and spray some WD-40 on it, let it soak in for a few or more seconds and wipe the excess off. The color will not change much at all, I bet.

And I can tell you it really does work, too. If you're going to use it on finished, lacquered or polyurethaned wood, that is a different story. In that case, it will just make if feel slick. Not oily or greasy, just smooth. And shouldn't change the color at all.

Flex
 
Flex said:
I'm interested in this Slip Stic stuff. However, I'm currently using a product that works just fine for me, I've had no problems with it, it repels water and humidity, and makes the shaft very slick, too. Most of the shafts for my cues have been retapered, and after I did the retapering and sanding and so on, I'd "whisker" them to get the grain ends to rise, then remove them, sanding down to 640 wet/dry paper. After all this I took the product I'm writing about and sprayed it on, and let it soak in for several minutes, then wiped all the excess off. Followed with paper towels to remove any excess. Worked and works like a charm. What is this product? WD-40.

No complaints about it.

How is Slip Stic better?

Thanks!
Flex
Click to expand...


I never thought about WD 40, mainly because it's not a wood care product, next is it works like a magnet for dust and dirt. I am glad that it works for you but you can't honestly say it's good for your shaft. Only that it gives you a smooth stroke.
 
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