new shaft coating for maple shafts

How long do you expect the coating to last before re-application is required, assuming it is played with for a couple of hours each day?
 
AuntyDan said:
How long do you expect the coating to last before re-application is required, assuming it is played with for a couple of hours each day?
Click to expand...
If the player is not rough it will not wear off. I can see it on the shaft for years but a re coat is so easy after you are set up, it might get done occasionally or may be only once, so far my shaft is like the day I applied it,4 weeks old.
 
tomspoolrm said:
does you coating go over the ferrulle as well. i hate a discolored shaft and ferrulle.
Click to expand...
It will stick to the ferrule as well but again the wood must be free of all contaminates like wax and dirt. A very hard sanding will be needed unless the shaft is new or fairly clean.
 
gulyassy said:
Well lets see what are all the good points of the new shaft coating.

Most important is that it stops shaft movement or at least slows it down dramatically.
It stops oxidation.
It keeps out chalk and dirt.
It feels as slick as a professional cleaning by a repairman.
It is not affected by heat or cold but I must strongly suggest never leaving your equipment in the trunk, even though the coating stays adhered to the shaft does not mean that freezing or high temperatures in the summer will not affect the wood's straitness.
The coating is much harder than the wood so dents will be harder to attain.
It does not add noticeable weight.
Repairing the finish as easy as coating it.
It should be available this month.
Click to expand...

Hi Mike,
Where will you be able to apply this coating other than your shop? (specific tournaments etc.)
JoeyA
 
gulyassy said:
Funny you should mention this. I will have some new sneaky peats at the US Open with the new coating instead of a clear coat.
Click to expand...


I will track you down there, I'm really curious. I hope you do good with it. :) I bet it weighs 8-10 grams or .3 oz which is fine. I like new things.
 
JoeyA said:
Hi Mike,
Where will you be able to apply this coating other than your shop? (specific tournaments etc.)
JoeyA
Click to expand...
This coating is a permanent coating like the finish on the butt. It will be applied only in a cue makers spray booth.
 
I'm not sure if this was covered, but will the existing diameter and taper of the shaft be preserved if you're applying to a used shaft, after all the hard sanding?
 
BWTadpole said:
I'm not sure if this was covered, but will the existing diameter and taper of the shaft be preserved if you're applying to a used shaft, after all the hard sanding?
Click to expand...
The diameter of the shaft will be smaller with sanding. The coating will add a few thousands to the shaft so if it is not real bad it might even out.
 
Predator shafts (laminated shafts)

Edited,,, didn't read all of the posts... got the answer.
Thanks,
JoeyA
 
Last edited:
gulyassy said:
Well lets see what are all the good points of the new shaft coating.

Most important is that it stops shaft movement or at least slows it down dramatically.

Repairing the finish as easy as coating it.
Click to expand...

What do you mean by "SHAFT MOVEMENT"?

When would the finish need to be repaired?
thanks,
JoeyA
 
JoeyA said:
What do you mean by "SHAFT MOVEMENT"?

When would the finish need to be repaired?
thanks,
JoeyA
Click to expand...
Shaft movement is another way of saying warping, changing from dead strait after the final pass by the manufacturer to being not dead strait, shaft movement. The shaft has a moisture content usually 5 to 6%, this moisture when heated or frozen will cause the wood to move a little in one direction to change the shaft's straitness. Just regular humidity changes will cause movement. Changes in barometric pressure will cause movement also. The shaft is always been exposed to the elements and this is why it can move very easily, not like the butt that is air tight with a finish covering over the surface. If you notice some of wrapped style cues, the butt moves right at the top of the wrap section where the cue is joined. This is not air tight at this point on most cues, it has a little white glue or contact cement which makes it exposed the the elements. Air tight will keep the wood straiter than wood that is exposed. My new coating will keep shaft straiter because it is air tight except on the end where it screws in to the butt at the faced off surface, a little wood is exposed. I just got a coated shaft back from the place that is making the material. An experiment was done on an Earl taper shaft which means 13 mm for 18 inches back then tapered out to the joint size. This shaft was heated to 120 degrees, then immediately frozen to 32 degrees, then heated and froze 2 more times. It was accidentally left in the oven overnight at 120 degrees. I just got the shaft back and it is as strait as I sent it. To tell the truth I cannot believe it. I expected the shaft to be warped as we were just testing the adhesion of the material under extreme conditions. The shaft coating would only need repaired if dented or scarred by accident. Respray is very easy.
 
gulyassy said:
Shaft movement is another way of saying warping, changing from dead strait after the final pass by the manufacturer to being not dead strait, shaft movement. The shaft has a moisture content usually 5 to 6%, this moisture when heated or frozen will cause the wood to move a little in one direction to change the shaft's straitness. Just regular humidity changes will cause movement. Changes in barometric pressure will cause movement also. The shaft is always been exposed to the elements and this is why it can move very easily, not like the butt that is air tight with a finish covering over the surface. If you notice some of wrapped style cues, the butt moves right at the top of the wrap section where the cue is joined. This is not air tight at this point on most cues, it has a little white glue or contact cement which makes it exposed the the elements. Air tight will keep the wood straiter than wood that is exposed. My new coating will keep shaft straiter because it is air tight except on the end where it screws in to the butt at the faced off surface, a little wood is exposed. I just got a coated shaft back from the place that is making the material. An experiment was done on an Earl taper shaft which means 13 mm for 18 inches back then tapered out to the joint size. This shaft was heated to 120 degrees, then immediately frozen to 32 degrees, then heated and froze 2 more times. It was accidentally left in the oven overnight at 120 degrees. I just got the shaft back and it is as strait as I sent it. To tell the truth I cannot believe it. I expected the shaft to be warped as we were just testing the adhesion of the material under extreme conditions. The shaft coating would only need repaired if dented or scarred by accident. Respray is very easy.
Click to expand...

While this test indicates that the coating may have stopped movement with this shaft, it's not necessarily the case. Was this shaft tested prior to coating to see if it moved after going through the same heating a cooling cycles? If not, then it's impossible to predict what would have happened. I'm sure you've seen shafts that don't move because of the structure of the wood in that particular shaft.

I look forward to seeing this coating first hand. Sounds fascinating!

Brian in VA
 
Brian in VA said:
While this test indicates that the coating may have stopped movement with this shaft, it's not necessarily the case. Was this shaft tested prior to coating to see if it moved after going through the same heating a cooling cycles? If not, then it's impossible to predict what would have happened. I'm sure you've seen shafts that don't move because of the structure of the wood in that particular shaft.

I look forward to seeing this coating first hand. Sounds fascinating!

Brian in VA
Click to expand...
I totally agree with you but like I said this test was for adhesion not straitness but consider a shaft at 12.7mm for 18 inches heated to 120 degrees and immediately frozen to 32 degrees times 3. Now this coupled with my personal experience with this coating over the last year seeing my shaft go from 50% to over 90% good. You are absolutely correct but this stuff is the nuts.
 
gulyassy said:
I totally agree with you but like I said this test was for adhesion not straitness but consider a shaft at 12.7mm for 18 inches heated to 120 degrees and immediately frozen to 32 degrees times 3. Now this coupled with my personal experience with this coating over the last year seeing my shaft go from 50% to over 90% good. You are absolutely correct but this stuff is the nuts.
Click to expand...
I can see that Mike, believe me. That's why I'm excited to see it at the Open next week. I just was pointing out that the test was not conclusive as had been stated. I also look forward to meeting you!

Brian in VA
 
Mike, any approximate idea as to what your shaft coating will cost per shaft (just the coating process, as I know if sanding is needed the cost will rise) when you're ready to roll with it?

Thanks, Chris.
 
Devilish48 said:
Mike, any approximate idea as to what your shaft coating will cost per shaft (just the coating process, as I know if sanding is needed the cost will rise) when you're ready to roll with it?

Thanks, Chris.
Click to expand...
The cost to coat a shaft is $40.00 for new and $50.00 for a used shaft. I am ready to roll right now. I will be at the US Open on the 24th but my booth will be open on the 19th. I have shafts that are done with the new coating to sell and look at.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top