New small tool for my shop

Thanks Joey.

Would be fun to try it out on some proper wood. Waiting for pictures of different woods to select from and then hopefully I have some proper wood to test out.

Have not dear'ed to make some inlays yet though, but that would come next time.

Any news in you're end Joey in respect of you're system ?

Kent
 
Newton said:
Thanks Joey.

Would be fun to try it out on some proper wood. Waiting for pictures of different woods to select from and then hopefully I have some proper wood to test out.

Have not dear'ed to make some inlays yet though, but that would come next time.

Any news in you're end Joey in respect of you're system ?

Kent
Not much news here.
I get back to working in 6 days.
 
I'm starting work tomorrow:(
If only those summer holidays could last a little longer..

K
 
JoeyInCali said:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=8151
Hi Kent, I recommend the 3-wing Whiteside slot cutters. Absolutely the best of all I've tried.
Stick to 7/8 diam and at least .080 thick. The arbor they have is very good as well.
I'm gonna check Camaster, thnx.

Thank's Joey for the tip.

I have done some initial tests with the straight backed bit on the pictures to turn the squares round. Then I did try my idea on the KJ saw mandrels and they worked very well for the finnish passes.
The Whitesides looks very beefy so I guess these could stand a beating...
Do you dear to use them before you have turned something round or do you use them on the finishing passes ?

Kent
 
Newton said:
Thank's Joey for the tip.

I have done some initial tests with the straight backed bit on the pictures to turn the squares round. Then I did try my idea on the KJ saw mandrels and they worked very well for the finnish passes.
The Whitesides looks very beefy so I guess these could stand a beating...
Do you dear to use them before you have turned something round or do you use them on the finishing passes ?

Kent
I use them for roughing and finishing. 30 inches per minute feed on roughing.
5-10 on slow passes.
They take a beating. 200 shafts later and is still ok.
I tried Freud 3/4 bits. No contest.
Tried Everlast and CMT too. I like Whiteside so much more.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I use them for roughing and finishing. 30 inches per minute feed on roughing.
5-10 on slow passes.
They take a beating. 200 shafts later and is still ok.
I tried Freud 3/4 bits. No contest.
Tried Everlast and CMT too. I like Whiteside so much more.

Great to hear. No need to look any further than :)
Have you tried different V cutting bit's as well? Have looked at Grizzly but there's so much out there so I'm not sure where to start.

Kent
 
Bit Dia

JoeyInCali said:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=8151
Hi Kent, I recommend the 3-wing Whiteside slot cutters. Absolutely the best of all I've tried.
Stick to 7/8 diam and at least .080 thick. The arbor they have is very good as well.
I'm gonna check Camaster, thnx.
Joey is that 1 7/8" dia. I couldn't find it in 7/8".
I am always out to try new bits that can do better than what I have been working with.
 
ddcuerepair said:
Joey is that 1 7/8" dia. I couldn't find it in 7/8".
I am always out to try new bits that can do better than what I have been working with.

Same with me David.

I made a adapter with the same Morse Taper as the metal one which I use on the rotating 4th axis. It has the same MT but goes out then to a half circle (looking in to the axis) so I can always manually move my CNC with the DSP control to the center of the axis.

In this way I don't need to compensate for which ever tool I decide to use in the program. Just touch the center with the tool in use and hit EDIT: XY->0 and I'm done :wink:

Kent
 
Newton said:
Same with me David.

I made a adapter with the same Morse Taper as the metal one which I use on the rotating 4th axis. It has the same MT but goes out then to a half circle (looking in to the axis) so I can always manually move my CNC with the DSP control to the center of the axis.

In this way I don't need to compensate for which ever tool I decide to use in the program. Just touch the center with the tool in use and hit EDIT: XY->0 and I'm done :wink:

Kent
INGENIUS!!!
 
JoeyInCali said:
INGENIUS!!!
Give me some minutes and I'll edit the pic and upload here.
Really simple to make, and so easy to use :happydance:

Kent
 
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Here is a look at the one I made.
Just copy you're MT and make the same if you have a similar setup.

Note that I had some flex in my vice setup and the correct portion is the "flat" part of the "half moon" :wave3:


Kent
 

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Results with finnish pass using KJ saw blade..

First try gave me this result. Smooth as anything and no sanding has been done on this.
Note: This is some scrap wood I cut from a board just to try it out.
Wood is very soft and is not optimum for this purpose, but it was just to get a feeling on how this would work out..

Kent
 

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Sorry for bringing this alive again...

But I'm proud like a peacock which has slipped in to the farmers fence and
done some good work on all hens :D

I started this quest in EDIT :July 2007 by asking Chris about converting a wood lathe
and now I have finally got my own metal late.

It arrived today and I have been busy packing out all the stuff. As usual
I shoot pics in case something is wrong (insurance issues during transport)
which I share with my friends up here.

Nothing unique with the machine, I guess many of you use several of these
but now I'm there, soon making dust.

Kent
 

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Damaged wood container

There was some additional "hits" bellow the trailer fence at the bottom
of the box... I had butterflies and was afraid some damage had occurred
 

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First look

I opened the front of the box where the damaged plates where in case
something went down the drain during transport...
 

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Extras

I ordered a lot of additional extras which was in 3 separate boxes...
 

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Just got rid of all the walls

The plastic was sealed all around the machine. Have no idea how the Chinese
did this :scratchhead:but it has for sure kept the machine clean and nice ..
 

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