Newbie Question- Changing a Tip?

gobrian77

gobrian77

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Just bought a few cues off AZ (McDermott, Schon, and Mike Stacey) and- while the tips on 'em are in good shape- I know I'm gonna have to replace 'em eventually, and I'm gonna order a tip tool and a few tips from Neilsen's.

I live outside of the US and don't have anybody local to help me out.

Using the Schon, i.e.- it's got a 13mm shaft, so I'm gonna order a 13mm tip (duh:p )- now, as I'm still learning which way is up on a pool table, would a medium tip be a better choice than a hard or soft tip? Am I wasting my $ buying an expensive Moori or Kamui tip when a cheap Le Pro is probably too good for me anyway, or will a better tip make a difference during the initial learning process? What adhesive should be used? How can I avoid damaging the ferrule when removing the old tip?

Any advice would be appreciated, and I apologize if this topic has been covered- I searched the database and couldn't find any useful info.;)
 
If anything, you want a larger tip to start with, as you will trim it down flush. Also, harder tips don't mushroom easily and last longer. Use a cyanoacrylic (ie. "superglue") and a razor blade to trim off the old tip. Sand both surfaces (bottom of tip and top of ferrule) to make the surfaces rough and flat. I use a disk that spins with sandpaper on it made by tweetens. I would get either a triangle or a layered tip such as Talisman, Moori, or my favorite, the Sniper.
 
Last edited:
belmicah said:
If anything, you want a larger tip to start with, as you will trim it down flush. Also, harder tips don't mushroom easily and last longer. Use a cyanoacrylic (ie. "superglue") and a razor blade to trim off the old tip. Sand both surfaces (bottom of tip and top of ferrule) to make the surfaces rough and flat. I use a disk that spins with sandpaper on it made by tweetens. I would get either a triangle or a layered tip such as Talisman, Moori, or my favorite, the Sniper.
Click to expand...


I wondered about that- so a 14mm would be my choice.:cool:

You make it sound easy...:o
 
i do my own tips using only hand tools and i get excellent results. it does take a bit of practice though, i would recommend practicing on some spare shafts or house cues before tackling your good cues.
 
McChen said:
i do my own tips using only hand tools and i get excellent results. it does take a bit of practice though, i would recommend practicing on some spare shafts or house cues before tackling your good cues.
Click to expand...

The problem for me is that I have neither- gotta start with the better ones.;)
 
British Instructions For Snooker Cues

1. Cut off old tip.

2. Clean off old glue and remains of old tip. ( scrape with craft knife blade )

3.Make sure top of cue and ferrule is perfectly level. (this can be done with cue top sander for best results.)

4.Level back of tip with abrasive paper, on a level surface holding tip between thumb and forefinger.

5.Apply glue to top of cue. ( Ideally 2-part epoxy resin glue, such as Araldite or gel superglue if in a hurry )

6.Gently place tip on glue and center up. Press down firmly. Wipe off excess glue then gently release pressure. Leave overnight for glue to cure.

7.Turn cue upside down on cutting board and trim off excess tip to size of ferrule.

8.With a flat file shape a rough dome on tip, filing from centre of tip to outside edge.

9.With fine abrasive paper smooth sidewall of tip into ferrule, making sure not to touch the wood of the shaft bellow the ferrule.

10.Finish off dome with a tip shaper.
 
Scaramouche said:
1. Cut off old tip.

2. Clean off old glue and remains of old tip. ( scrape with craft knife blade )

3.Make sure top of cue and ferrule is perfectly level. (this can be done with cue top sander for best results.)

4.Level back of tip with abrasive paper, on a level surface holding tip between thumb and forefinger.

5.Apply glue to top of cue. ( Ideally 2-part epoxy resin glue, such as Araldite or gel superglue if in a hurry )

6.Gently place tip on glue and center up. Press down firmly. Wipe off excess glue then gently release pressure. Leave overnight for glue to cure.

7.Turn cue upside down on cutting board and trim off excess tip to size of ferrule.

8.With a flat file shape a rough dome on tip, filing from centre of tip to outside edge.

9.With fine abrasive paper smooth sidewall of tip into ferrule, making sure not to touch the wood of the shaft bellow the ferrule.

10.Finish off dome with a tip shaper.
Click to expand...

Thank you!

I think I can manage that (and I printed it out as a guide:) ).
 
Hehe- this site is a wealth of information, and nobody knocks the new guys- I dig it.

Now if I could just learn to pocket more than two balls in a row...:p
 
I'd be happy to show you personally, it will take about a week or two, send tickets and room number!! :p
 
rayjay said:
I'd be happy to show you personally, it will take about a week or two, send tickets and room number!! :p
Click to expand...

Yep- I get those same offers when I have motorcycle trouble and post on my bike board.;)
 
gobrian77 said:
Yep- I get those same offers when I have motorcycle trouble and post on my bike board.;)
Click to expand...

Koh Samui... Wasn't that the future in-laws honeymoon destination in Meet the Parents?
 
After you put the tip on and it is somewhat dry, stand the cue on the tip in a corner on a wooden floor overnight. Make sure it is vertical. I found the tips stay on better and longer with this added pressure.

The tip holders tend to slip and mark the stick. They are not really needed with the newer glues mentioned above.

Personally, I like LePro tips they hit well and need little maintenance after the initial break-in period.
 
Last edited:
JoeW said:
Personally, I like LePro tips they hit well and need little maintenance after the initial break-in period.
Click to expand...

Using Nielsen's prices, 50 Le Pro tips are less than $20- one Moori tip is $11.50- is the Moori tip nearly 30x better?:confused:
 
Perfectly Flat Surfaces are Key

The most important part of replacing tips yourself is being absolutely sure the prepared surfaces (end ferrule and back side of tip) are *perfectly flat*. I think not being careful about this is the main reason that self-installed tips pop off during play.

When I used to replace my own tips I'd get the two surfaces flat by (1) using a fine-grit flat file on the ferrule and (2) laying the tip on the same file and rubbing it back and forth. The tip is easy, but the ferrule is harder because your hand might allow the file to rock as you use it, making the ferrule surface a little rounded - off pops the tip after a few sidespin shots.

Tip replacement tools usually include something to help get a perfectly flat ferrule surface - choose one that looks solidly made and test the ferrule's flatness after using it and before gluing the tip on (say, by holding something hard and flat against it).

pj
chgo
 
Well not really....

gobrian77 said:
Using Nielsen's prices, 50 Le Pro tips are less than $20- one Moori tip is $11.50- is the Moori tip nearly 30x better?:confused:
Click to expand...


I think the layered tips are significantly better, 30X wow thats kinda tough.

One of the big advantages is you wouldnt have to change the tip as often. I only change 1 or 2 times a YEAR! verses probably twice that with a Lepro.

The Lepro has performed well for me, it does mushroom a little, and I mean little. But the big advantage for me is the life.

I get Moori-Soft put on locally for $20, a Lepro is $10, so I use Moori-S on about everything.

My opinions only, but you asked.

Good Luck!

ken
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top