absolutely. Pool is like life. If you make stupid choices it becomes much harder. Shoot stupid shots, take bad position routes, the game gets harder. That's a big reason why Efren was as great as he is. He was generally smarter than everyone else.
Non-Layered Tips
- Thread starter Island Drive
- Start date
Ba
Bartenders really had to work on the house cues cause people actually used them
He recently did a what’s in my case and is using a layered tip. Ko, I think.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've found the "clicking" noise is do to a glue problem. There isn't a 100% glue adhesion between the tip and the ferrule.Okay, here goes:
I don't like the ones that produce that loud "Click" at impact.
I don't like the "Squishy" ones.
I like the "Good" ones that have a nice solid "Doink" feel that you can feel through your hand and wrist all the way up to your elbow.
That's what "Good" means to me.
A lot of times those tips will pop off. Inspection after they pop off will usually show a spot where there was no glue, or was probably absorbed into the leather before it hardened.
Elk Master is the best. Consistent within the box, low cost. If Efren can play with them and do what he did, you have no excuse.
They are also amazing when pressed.
Snooker players play with tips similar to the Elk Master.
People claim non-layered tips are not consistent. Well, sometimes. But neither are layered tips and that's one of the issues they try to solve. It's just that most people can't afford to go through 25 tips that cost $40 each to get a basis. They're just happy with what they get because of how much they paid for it.
Anyway, the whole tip thing is just about as bad as the custom cue will make you play better mythology and other various equipment obsessions as a "buy skill" crutch people delude themselves into.
They are also amazing when pressed.
Snooker players play with tips similar to the Elk Master.
People claim non-layered tips are not consistent. Well, sometimes. But neither are layered tips and that's one of the issues they try to solve. It's just that most people can't afford to go through 25 tips that cost $40 each to get a basis. They're just happy with what they get because of how much they paid for it.
Anyway, the whole tip thing is just about as bad as the custom cue will make you play better mythology and other various equipment obsessions as a "buy skill" crutch people delude themselves into.
The reason I like single layered tips is because they don't delaminate, hold chalk better, don't glaze over and don't harden up to where you better make sure you have it chalked right or the tip will slide right off the cue ball. Both kinds hold their shape if taken care of, so that is not an issue.
FYI.... the single layered tips generally don't last as long with the newer/stiffer shafts.
I've found my good LePros, lasted about half as long as before.
Tip also flares out \MORE.... and needed more maintenance, which is annoying.
But an unexpected miscue, seems Always to be at the wrong time.
I've found my good LePros, lasted about half as long as before.
Tip also flares out \MORE.... and needed more maintenance, which is annoying.
But an unexpected miscue, seems Always to be at the wrong time.
Last edited:
that was for breaking or jumping (taom tips). for his playing cue he's using techno-dud
My criteria for good one/bad one is they are round and require no trimming. They aren't always circular and you end up with a Fraymaster.
I've had two single layer tips "accordian" on me. You could pull on the tip and spread it apart like an accordian bellows. One was a LePro, and the other came on a stick I got with a pool table. No idea what that one was.
I dont believe there are animal hides thick enough to make a tip out of a single piece of leather. Before pressing, they would have to be 1/2 inch thick or more. I would have to think they are multiple hides that are pressed under heat and pressure to form something usable
Anyone know the exact process of how single layer tips are made? No videos that I could find last time I looked.
Last edited:
I disagree on almost everything here. Been using Ultraskins for yrs. and they don't delam,glaze over and they hold chalk as good or better than any single-ply tip i've ever used. I did have one cheap layered tip come apart on install. Was cheap tip from Barringer's that fluffed on the lathe. Joe blamed my installer. Wrong. Tip was crap.
Yet when you see it occur it's often not a shot when excessive cue ball speed is needed.
Is the glue/adhesive that Mori uses, different than Ultra's?
It's just hard for my mind, that's run auto/truck repair shops to remove logic from the materials at hand.
When you add something between layers, and it's surface area is increased because of the curvature, there's interplay.
Yet.
Some mfg may be using a gluing, that has a grab/like leather to remove slippage.
Or maybe that $20 piece of chalk is worth it.
I just watched Shaw run the last five and never chalked once.
Tip? Chalk? yeah, but Shaw hits the Middle of the cue ball like 90% of the time, chalks not needed when your center punchin' whitey.
Jim Buss used to have the same feeling. The exposed glue could promote miscues.
My thinking is the glue simply needs to hold chalk and if so there's no contact between the glue and CB.
UltraSkin are nice tips. I think as good or better than the $30 tips.
SSDiver2112
2b || !2b t^ ?
Since I switched to Ultraskin tips I rarely have to mess with it and never glazes over. Solid and consistent
It has been a while since put a tip on for Rafael Martinez, but he had me put elk master tips on his cue, and was still using them last time I saw him. He liked to have the tip put on, then he would bounce it on the floor for a while to flatten it out.
Old School.
Reduces mushrooming and is similar to pressing in a vice.