nut plates vs t nuts etc.

matcase

Blondie's #1 fan
Silver Member
Hopefully, this will help educate prospective table purchasers.
Mechanics; manufacturers and dealers all have information about the tables rail mounting method. Some use 3 t nuts some use 4 and others use floating nut plates. All say their method makes the rail and table perform as a single unit. All say their method is the best, and in the case of the floating nut plate, they say it allows for more torque to be applied. Questions: first are any of these methods really better? or are all of them proven and sound?
Second, nobody seems to put killer torque on the rail bolts in the first place, so have I misundrstood the claims about the floating nut plates? thanks.
 
There is a huge difference between a properly secured rail and one that uses a faulty method ie; lags, screws etc... Both the t nut and the floating nut plate are likely the best method for securing the rails over more inexpensive methods. I prefer t nuts over nut plates. T nuts allow a more secure initial grab to prevent cross threading, whereas floating nut plates are exactly that... Floating! It makes it a lot harder to get a rail bolt started if the bolts have not been inserted prior to rail mounting. T nuts have teeth that bite into the wood making it almost impossible to pull through if it is used in combination with a proven hardwood like poplar. As for the number of rail bolts etc... Its kinda like lug nuts on a tire... When is enough enough?

Good Topic!!!
 
My opinion is this. I've repaired all kinds of so called rail mounting systems from t-nuts, to floating nuts, nut plates, and inserts. Let me tell you what, if you're ever in a situation that you're working on rails that the rails are laminated, and the t-nuts are inserted below the laminate, and you're following someone else's work, and they cross threaded the rail bolts, or broke some of them off causing the t-nut to spin...you are in deep trouble...period! There is almost no way to repair the t-nut without replacing the laminate, because that's how the t-nut comes out....through the laminate...and any manufacture that build rails like this...are f**$#@ idiots..Period!

Next, floating nut plates, like on Brunswick's, cross thread a bolt in one of them, get out the drill and drill out the shank of the bolt until you've removed enough of the remaining bolt so you can then peel off the rubber and pull out the floating nut plate and replace it with another one...if you even have one on hand.

Next, nut plates, they're only as strong as the wood screws holding them in, which in most cases won't hold very strong if you tighten the rail bolt to tight, but you'll never really know how tight you're tightening the rail bolt...because all you're doing is tightening the nut plate down on the slate like a big washer even after you've pulled the wood screws out.

Then, there's the insert that Diamond uses. Folks, let me tell you first hand, if someone ever screws one of these babies up...no problem...just back out the cross threaded bolt...and the insert comes out with it, then replace the insert with another one and you're back in business.

That's all I have to say.

Glen
 
The floating nut plates Brunswick uses are the strongest, period. You cannot spin it or break it loose, I guess it could be stripped somehow but never over tightned. The slate or the stud will break first before you drive it thru almost an inch of wood or break it lose from the staples(more like nails) that stop it from spinning.

The only dis- advantage is if you do have to replace one the cushion has to be removed as it sits in a small cavity in the rail.
 
mechanic/player said:
The floating nut plates Brunswick uses are the strongest, period. You cannot spin it or break it loose, I guess it could be stripped somehow but never over tightned. The slate or the stud will break first before you drive it thru almost an inch of wood or break it lose from the staples(more like nails) that stop it from spinning.

The only dis- advantage is if you do have to replace one the cushion has to be removed as it sits in a small cavity in the rail.

My point exactly, they are a pain in the butt to replace, but...I've never had to replace one for being overtightened. My point about the insert that Diamond uses, is that it has tremendous holding strength, and is the easiest to replace should that need to be done. They'll both hold at least 18ft lbs of torque, and that's enough for any rail bolt, I can't say that about the other kinds of ways of securing rails to the slate.

Glen
 
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