one piece cores
- Thread starter wabelly
- Start date
I believe he meant the butts, specifically.
Well Dick, you just made me spit my 3:48 am coffee out! That is funny, at least at this time of the night!!!
Hope all is well,
Dave
It may help if you give better description as to how it all went bad?
My bad!!! I don't know what planet I was on when I posted that. Let me get some more coffee down my gullet. SORRY.
Dick
I'll go out on a limb and say you should save the superglue for your tips
...with that said, for wood to wood joinery PVA glues like Tightbond are pretty hard to beat, both in bond strength and price.
If you decide to go with a PVA, the only advice I can offer is to turn your coring dowel down maybe fifteen to twenty thousandths under your bore<---learned that the hard way doing my first segmented handle
That's a huge gap.
8 to 10 thou is plenty.
I would prefer epoxy on segment handle. You can easily see if there's any void on 3-4" sleeves. I prefer a medium thick epoxy for that job.
I'll go out on a limb and say you should save the superglue for your tips
...with that said, for wood to wood joinery PVA glues like Tightbond are pretty hard to beat, both in bond strength and price.
If you decide to go with a PVA, the only advice I can offer is to turn your coring dowel down maybe fifteen to twenty thousandths under your bore<---learned that the hard way doing my first segmented handle
You probably needed that much clearance because of the PVA glue. As the wood starts to absorb the moisture in the glue, it starts to become thicker before you get the core in the piece.
With gorilla glue, you have 20 minutes working time and it is a little slicker. You might not need that much clearance. Plus gorilla glue expands 4 times to fill all gaps.
On a segmented handle cue I glued on each segment and the ring set for that section using gorilla glue. great stuff!!
Kim
I quit using Gorilla Glue (or any other expanding polyurethane foam glue) for coring - haven't for several years after I had a front fail while cutting V-points.
Some time ago (2007 ?) Fine Woodworking magazine conducted serious documented testing of various adhesives, as referenced in this video:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/Materials/MaterialsArticle.aspx?id=28853
If you have a chance to read the article you should. I know Gorilla Glue is very popular for coring because of its ease of use and apparent gap-filling capabilities, but after reading the test results not only am I convinced I made the right decision I also think it may actually be the worst choice for coring adhesive. The data doesn't lie.
TW
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DRPoolshooter
Registered
The test did not include dowels and cylinders.
I once gorilla glued 4 inch dowel on a hole about 3 inches long so I can hammer it.
Two days after gorilla gluing it, I chucked up the piece with the dowel sticking out.
I have hammered several times .
The dowel did not budge.
I bandsawed it after and examined the inside.
It was tight.
Imagine if you threaded the dowel on top or bottom . That glue will be nothing more than a gap filler as mechanically, the dowel shouldn't move.
The test didn't include dovetails, scarf joints, miters, or any number of other joining methods either. But I'm at a bit of a loss to understand how you might think any particular joint can somehow make an otherwise-questionable bond better. The end results had it rated the worst of the lot.
It's probably okay if no further cutting into the surface is intended. When cutting in V-points, however, the bond is potentially subjected to shearing and delaminating forces. Also, due to the expanding nature of its "gap-filling" properties, the gaps get filled with a less dense more foam-like fill, which under the stress and vibration of playing I would worry might become "crumbley" over time.
I quit using it prior to the FW article, but do believe their test results support that decision. This is, of course, just one man's decision.
TW
I have used PVA many times and still do but I had a bad experience on my first ring billet. I cut the slots in the billet and had the strips all ready to go in. I put PVA on everything and started to assemble it. By the time I got half way done it was a ball of sticky sht that looked like a pile of pick up sticks covered with alfredo sauce. I sht canned the whole sticky mess.
One of my many failures when learning to build cues............ I hope I live long enough to not make any more.
Now I use west system for billets and have plenty of time to assemble and it turns out hard as a rock.
Many CB's use gorilla glue for coring and it works great. Glue it up and let it cure over night and then bounce the end of it on the floor. It sings like a single piece of wood. If you can't get gorilla glue to hold a core in place when cutting in points, there is something wrong with the method of glue up or assembly.
l
Kim
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