one rail kicks

2.5 speed

With speed2,5 a speed of two a d a half table lengths is meant (if u stroke the cb and it rolls two and a half lengths of the table/ 20diamonds distance)

Gesendet von meinem GT-I9100 mit Tapatalk 2

Thats kinda what i was thinking but i wasnt sure.

I do ok on some of my kicks but it has takens years to get where i am at now.


I could do better if i could use a sheet rock square.


Thank you
Merry Christmas
MMike
 
I watched your video, the background noise was to much.

Very hard to follow or to understand your voice. no offence intended.

I see your kicks are some what right on and I am interested in learning your system but at this time I dont understand the 8.2 and the 3.1 stuff.
I will study your system more but this is my first impression.

And somtimes it takes the extra effort to get me to fully understand things,
Merry Christmas EKKES.

MMike
 
Hey Mike
I know the background was very loud...
Try it with the help of the diagram
and tell me where exactly I can help.
Ekkes
 
Hey Mike
I know the background was very loud...
Try it with the help of the diagram
and tell me where exactly I can help.
Ekkes

Hi EKKES,

Some really good information in that video. A lot is lost however due to the background noise. Any chance that you could redo that in a quiet setting so we could understand what you are saying while you are demonstrating?

We appreciate the help you are giving us.
 
Ekkes,

I have been looking for a more reliable one rail kicking system. After looking at your second diagram, listening to your video, and some practice, I am able to consistently kick in shots using lag speed.

Thanks for the information it is much appreciated.
 
I copied in your comments from the video. I took license to make it clearer for me.


Kicking 1 Rail Ekkes

Make up an aiming template to divide a diamond into tenths.

For lag speed use a 2:1 ratio and aim through the diamonds.

When using firmer speed, that is 2.5, adjust 1.6 tenths of a
diamond for this kick shot. That is 0.4 tenths of a diamond
for each diamond on the shooter's (from0 rail.
4 diamonds x 0.4 = 1.6 tenths of a diamond adjustment
(That is shorter).​

To locate the position of the cue ball, we have to find the
2:1 ratio line the cue ball is laying on.

We just put the cue over the cue ball and try to find a line
with a 2:1 ratio.

This means that the diamonds on the shooter's (from) rail
are exactly double of the diamonds on the opposite (to)
rail. They are both taken on the diamond line on the rails
of both from and to rails.

For side spin, we apply english at ca 1:30/ 10:30 and
adjust 0.5 diamonds when using lag speed. The 0.5 is
added to the 2:1 point on the to rail. This is true when
both balls are laying in front of the long/short rail.

When the cue ball is laying in front of the corner pocket at
8.3 and the object ball is located in front of the other
corner pocket at 0. our aim point at the rail is 4.15 aiming
through the diamonds and using lag speed.

8.3 /2 = 4.15​
Looks to be center ball horizontally with the bottom of the
cue tip at center cue ball vertically.

When the cue ball is in front of the corner pocket at 8.3
and the object ball is located in front of the other corner
pocket at 0, our aim point at the rail is 4.15 aiming through
the diamonds and using lag speed.
8.3 /2 = 4.15​


Remember: When both balls are laying in front of the same
rail, we only apply english at 10:30/1:30 using lag speed
and adjust 0.5 diamonds.

How to calculate the needed adjustment for firmer speed (2.5):

In the next situation, the object ball is laying 3.3 diamonds
away from the cue ball (red object ball in the diagram);

Divide the full diamonds by 2 and multiply the remaining
tenths ( 0.3) by 0.08 and add the result.
3/2 + 3 x 0.08 = 1.5 + 0.24 = 1.74​

When we want to make contact with an object ball that is
laying in front of a diamond on the short rail, while the cue
ball is laying in front of the long rail, we aim through the
diamonds again.

When we use lag speed we divide the numbed of the short
rail by 4.

Then we add the result to the numbers of the diamonds on
the rail we shoot from and divide the result by 2

In the next situation the cue ball is laying on a line 4
diamonds away from the corner pocket.

The object ball is laying in front of diamond #3 (1.5
diamonds from the pocket)

Diamond
#3 > (4 + 3/4 )/2 = 4.75/2 = 2.375​
#4 > (4 + 4/4)/2 = 5/2 = 2.5​
#5 > (4 + 5/4 )/2 = 5.25/2 = 2.625​
The cue ball is on a line 4 diamonds away from the corner
pocket. Object ball is laying in front of diamond location 6
on the sort rail.

When I use lag speed I divide the location of the object
ball by 4 and add the result to the diamonds of the cue ball
location.


I do not understand the numbers on the short rail.

Especially the numbers 6.6, 9.2 and 12.0 in the #5, #6,
and #7 diamond positions.


Are these accurate for shooting off the cue ball line of 4 for
the following diamonds?

Diamond
#1 > (4 + 1/4)/2 = 2 + 0.125 = 2.125​
#2 > (4 + 2/4)/2 = 2 + 0.25 = 2.25​

#5 > (4 + 6.6/4)/2 = 2 + 1.65/2 = 2.825​
#6 > (4 + 9.2/4)/2 = 2 + 2.3/2 = 2 + 1.15 = 3.15​
#7 > (4 + 12/4)/2 = 2 + 1.5 = 3.5​

EDITED #5, #6, and #7

For hitting the red ball on the diagram, breaking apart the
units and tenths of a diamond results in preparative and
therefore consistent calculations. It makes perfect sense.

Now off to a table and confirm my understanding or return
to the drawing board.

I will have to retrieve my measure which is divided into
tenths of a diamond.



:)
 
Last edited:
A confusing matter in hitting the object ball when placed
on an end rail position is the convention used.

That is Ekkes seems to be measuring from the side pocket.

I think it is more natural and comfortable measuring from
the corner pocket.

This may just be a matter of convention or other means to
recall the method. Perhaps something German?

Thus the aim point through the diamond would be ...

TO POINT
The FROM point. ie side pocket value of 4 divided by 2.
I supposed a little more accuracy in determining the TO
value near the aim point.

OFFSET
The offset is the value provided on the end rail, with slight
rearrangement of terms, end rail value divided by 8.

Then the result is the AIM = TO - OFFSET

I am still interested in the development of the end rail
numbers. They changed from the original diagram.
Perhaps there is something basic between the two sets of
numbers.

The other numbers for hitting the RED ball are straight
forward, noting the convention Ekkes uses. Again a matter
of convention.

Shooting from corner value 8.3 is spot on.

Now to confirm the above one more time and then confirm
the adjustments for english and a hard hit.

Thanks again for providing a new window for kicking.


:)
 
Thanks for pointing out a simple and easily adapted
method. Many of us use such a method.

Using proportional points between two adjacent lanes is
good. I have drifted into spot on the wall for such shots
but will put your adjustment back in my standard.

I also prefer using the point on the rail groove versus the
diamond line even if it takes a bit of additional focus.


I like the portion of Ekkes in both hitting the red ball and
also in hitting a ball on the end rail.

His system seems to provide full ball contact for a
reasonable chance for a safe. Or adjust the point in an
attempt to make the ball.

The system seems to work fine say to his line 5 and nearly
to line 6. But beyond that, there is something missing or
the limits of useful portions of the table are exceeded.

Working out the detail of another's system can provide
insight and rediscovery of other related issues.

:)
 
Last edited:
Put me on the list of "I Like to know it!!!"

Duc.
Whom of you is interested in getting a system for one rail kicks without and with side spin different to any other published kicking system for free here on Az from me? (= E(kkes)-kicking system

I will be happy to post it here in case at least 15 people post here and saying they would like to know it!

EKKES
 
Love it ! Let's hear it....

Whom of you is interested in getting a system for one rail kicks without and with side spin different to any other published kicking system for free here on Az from me? (= E(kkes)-kicking system

I will be happy to post it here in case at least 15 people post here and saying they would like to know it!

EKKES[/QUOTE


I would love to hear about it!
 
Whom of you is interested in getting a system for one rail kicks without and with side spin different to any other published kicking system for free here on Az from me? (= E(kkes)-kicking system

I will be happy to post it here in case at least 15 people post here and saying they would like to know it!

EKKES[/QUOTE


I would love to hear about it!

Read the following from Ekkes in this thread.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showpost.php?p=3915334&postcount=19

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showpost.php?p=3917167&postcount=27

Several of Ekkes videos on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/user/ekkibaer/videos

Revised diagram and video link
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showpost.php?p=3925732&postcount=35

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showpost.php?p=3926923&postcount=42

My post rewording from the Ekkes video.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showpost.php?p=3932721&postcount=48


There still remains a few questions, but there is much of value
posted in this link.

I recommend reading the entire thread.

 
I want to learn

I am in, I would like learn.

I have been doing drills on my banks and kicks, It might be in my head but I would swear that every rail is a different hardness.

I would explain the systems that I use but I am not sure if that infomation is needed. Because my chances of making a object ball that is in the center of the table on a kick is low...

MMike
 
Whom of you is interested in getting a system for one rail kicks without and with side spin different to any other published kicking system for free here on Az from me? (= E(kkes)-kicking system

I will be happy to post it here in case at least 15 people post here and saying they would like to know it!

EKKES

If you have something interesting, just post it.
 
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