Opinion please

J.T.450r

Chesapeake Custom Cues
Silver Member
Yes this has been asked a million times..I have money in my hand to buy a lathe and try to make cues as a hobby maybe make a couple bucks. I already have alot of the woodworking equipment I will need what I am worried about purchasing is a Lathe and cnc. I noticed alot of cue makers on this site say they use these ready to go cue lathes Hightower deluxe, porper, unique lathes but alot of cue makers I speak to in my area say they never would use anything but full size metal lathe such as a JET or Grizzly lathe. I purchased Mr. Hightowers book and I love it, lots of info and think I might purchase a deluxe lathe from him or A conversion kit from him for a lager metal lathe. I have the money to go ether way but the cnc will have to wait so my questions are
1. in my shoes what would you do
2. what equipment are you using to make cues
3. what are the pro's and con's of each machine

thanks to all who reply, but cue makers only please
 

Bill the Cat

Proud maker of CAT cues
Silver Member
What to do

If money, shop space and time are not an issue, you can't beat the rigidity and accuracy of a full size metal lathe. Just be prepared to spend a lot of time and money to make your "metal" lathe a "cuemaking" lathe.

If you want to start working on cues (repairing and/or making) right away, you cant' beat Chris Hightowers machines!
 

Bill the Cat

Proud maker of CAT cues
Silver Member
Oops!

Sorry, forgot to answer questions 2 & 3.

Question 2....
I'm currently using a Hightower Mid-Size Cuesmith lathe that I modified to add tapering capability for butts and shafts.

Question 3
The pros of a full size metal lathe is increased rigidity and accuracy. The cons are more shop space required, increased electical requirements and the need for modifications to make it a "cuemaking" lathe.

The pros of the "ready-to-go" cue lathes are.......well, they're "ready-to-go" and cheaper than the cost of a full size lathe(plus modifications). The cons are the lack of rigidity and accuracy due to the reduced size (mass).
 

BLACKHEARTCUES

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This is only slightly off subject, but ALL people who are thinking of making pool cues should consider WHERE & HOW you are going to put the finish on them. The clear coat finishes that are used today, do not say they may cause health problems, they state right on the can that they WILL cause liver, kidney & bladder failure. They will cause CANCER & BRAIN DAMAGE. Nothing short of an outside air supply, a designated spray booth & the best mask you can get is a must. Making pool cues is much more than buying a lathe & making saw dust...JER
 

rhncue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This is only slightly off subject, but ALL people who are thinking of making pool cues should consider WHERE & HOW you are going to put the finish on them. The clear coat finishes that are used today, do not say they may cause health problems, they state right on the can that they WILL cause liver, kidney & bladder failure. They will cause CANCER & BRAIN DAMAGE. Nothing short of an outside air supply, a designated spray booth & the best mask you can get is a must. Making pool cues is much more than buying a lathe & making saw dust...JER

Excellent point. Finishing is a killer and it is seldom brought up. To be safe and legal, in most states, You need a self contained spraying booth and re-capture system which can cost much more than all of your other equipment put together.

Some use a dipping or brush on finish to try and get around it but it sure shows in their finished product. I've got 2 cues in my shop at this moment to be re-finished, that have never hit a ball that a soldier in Korea has just purchased from 2 different custom cue makers, 1 from here in the states and 1 from the Phil. that have been dipped or such and not rubbed out. They both have the worst finish I've ever seen on a cue. How someone could allow something that looks like these out their door with their name on them behooves me. I wouldn't want the trash man to see them. That is one of the bad things about the Internet. Things (garbage) can be sold to unsuspecting people as they can't get the clarity and perspective that they would obtain if the cue was in their hands.

Cue building, like most other endeavors in life, is not a cheap business to get into if you want a quality product.

Dick
 

Varney Cues

Handcrafted quality!
Silver Member
This is only slightly off subject, but ALL people who are thinking of making pool cues should consider WHERE & HOW you are going to put the finish on them. The clear coat finishes that are used today, do not say they may cause health problems, they state right on the can that they WILL cause liver, kidney & bladder failure. They will cause CANCER & BRAIN DAMAGE. Nothing short of an outside air supply, a designated spray booth & the best mask you can get is a must. Making pool cues is much more than buying a lathe & making saw dust...JER

Everyone wants to be a cuebuilder...until they spend a few days in the hospital from a lung full of toxic cocobola dust. And then like Jerry said...well...don't think that you are going to be spraying in your basement. Even just the dust from turning down a buttcap is killing your lungs...trust me.
 

J.T.450r

Chesapeake Custom Cues
Silver Member
This is only slightly off subject, but ALL people who are thinking of making pool cues should consider WHERE & HOW you are going to put the finish on them. The clear coat finishes that are used today, do not say they may cause health problems, they state right on the can that they WILL cause liver, kidney & bladder failure. They will cause CANCER & BRAIN DAMAGE. Nothing short of an outside air supply, a designated spray booth & the best mask you can get is a must. Making pool cues is much more than buying a lathe & making saw dust...JER

This is great info and I do have access to a spray both (my mentors) but for other people who aren't so lucky where and how did you spray your finish when you first started out?
 
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Bill the Cat

Proud maker of CAT cues
Silver Member
My bad!

I usually make a point about dust collection when giving advice to anyone about cue building tools. Everybody wants to get the lathe and start making chips, but the first purchase should be a good dust collector and air filtration system.

As for finishing, the previous posters are absolutely correct. Many (most) of the automotive clear coats that some cuemakers use are EXTREMELY dangerous. They require great care and a great deal of expense for a suitable (safe) spray booth. That is why I chose to use a water based finish. It's safer, it allows simple soap and water cleanup and, IMHO, it gives an excellent finish.
 

josie

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Epoxy finish

I don't want to spray in my garage so I use epoxy to finish. I have used finish cure epoxy and cue cote. The finish cure dries in about 2-3 hours and the cue cote takes about 4-5 hours, but I think the cue cote dries a little clearer maybe.

Just another option.
 

Cue Crazy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I don't want to spray in my garage so I use epoxy to finish. I have used finish cure epoxy and cue cote. The finish cure dries in about 2-3 hours and the cue cote takes about 4-5 hours, but I think the cue cote dries a little clearer maybe.

Just another option.


I've never used epoxy as a top cote just as a sealer, but My guess is You won't be completely satisfied with an epoxy finish. Epoxy alone is too soft IMO unless maybe UV cured, and It is a pain to buff out.

CA is another option that can be applied By hand, but as with anything has It's share of issues too. The good points are You can buff the stuff out to a clear finish that looks very close to automotive clear with common compounds that are easily obtained locally, It tends to stay clearer then epoxy alone, and It is a harder finish then epoxy, but There are many bad points, like It burns the crap out of your eyes & lungs, takes many thin coats to build up enough to sand and buff out without wiping through to the wood, Trash gets in It very easily, chemical reactions can take place, and create white patches if You lay too many thick cotes down in one setting, before sanding. It can also be very brittle, so proper prep work is vital. If You do good prep work the stuff can handle minor dings, and may just ding like auto finish, but heavy hits to the cue will most definitely pop loose and blister, so If You have a customer that treats his/her cue badly, then You will be constantly fixing chip outs on their cues. As nice as a finish as It can produce, It's just too much of a PITA to use on a regular basis IMO.

The auto finish people are referring You to in this thread is one of the best ways I know to finish, but as mentioned very bad stuff, so even find a body shop where It can be done at night or someone with a spray booth, or make yourself a good plan for building a self contained booth. I myself haven't finished Mine, but I have been buying stuff here and there to capture the particles and filtrate, to spray with, as well as building a spinner to spin the cues as I spray. at some point I will build a small self contained booth dedicated to spraying cues that will house all this stuff. Some may consider this overkill, but like others have said the finishes are deadly, and at a minimum can make everyone around sick. Not only do you risk family & neighbors health, but Can't work on cues if you can't get out of the bed. I've been there when It comes to breathing in dust and other chemicals, so I'm not gonna play around with this stuff, I also want this room self contained to keep the dust contaminates out, and down to a bare minimum. The more problems You have with stuff getting into the finish, the more It knocks You a step back each time, which in turn cost you more time, and material, which turns into dollars lost. I'm setting up to spray dupont clear, But it could be used to spray other types of finish like water base, if i ever try a product That I like. Or I could set a UV up in there if i ever wanted.

Some people use UV, but from My understanding, only certain types of product work well for that, and is very expensive to set up.

Some people Use hand rubbed oil finishes, and i think these looks great on some cues, where it suits the design of a particular style of cue, but then I don't feel it works with every design, and It really doesn't create much of a protective shell to time capsule the cue (so to speak).

Some people use water based finishes, I love the idea of this, but I have not had any luck using them Myself, I have heard there are some great water based products out there these days, but I have not had the chance to try them out, so can't form an honest opinion either way on those.

Again, I have not used all the products out there, so nothing I am saying is intended to knock any finish someone may or may not be using, Just my opinions based on my knowledge, hear say, or on what limited products I have tried. There are a lot of products out there, and would be near impossible to try them all out.

The thing is you want a durable finish, you want It super clear & to stay that way, you want it to buff out easily, be easy to repair, and you want it to stick well to the cue. Sub par finishes will only keep you refinishing cues on a regular basis, instead of building and designing more cues. If You acquire a steady customer base for repair work too, then that only leaves you less time. If you have all these things going on at once, and have a regular job or any kind of personal life too, then forget about, cause there just ain't enough time in a day for all of It.

Either way You slice It, like others having mentioned, how the cues will be finished is a huge consideration.:wink:
 

RSCue

Russ Schilling
Silver Member
I recently finished three cues with Chris Hightowers water based finish with a spray gun. Took them to the pool hall and nobody could tell the difference between these cues and some of the auto finishes. Another cue maker that sprays auto said he will switch right away because my finish is as good as his. If this finish holds up, and I am pretty sure it will because I have been spraying water finishes on other products for the last 15 years, then I will never spray the auto finishes. These cues turned out very shiny and beautiful.
 
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