Theamazing
New member
Seeking feedback from this platform about whether installing a pad between tip and the ferrule is beneficial or extraneous.
Pad between tip and ferrule
- Thread starter Theamazing
- Start date
I don't believe modern ferrule materials need a pad. The pad is more beneficial in preventing ivory ferrules from splitting.
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
Perfect timing.
A friend of mine was installing a Bulletproof tip on a break cue and it popped off. He re-installed it and tested it himself and it popped off again. He added a fiber pad and it hasn't popped off yet.
Do you think the pad has anything to do with this or was the installation the more probable cause and coincidentally he finally got it right?
I haven't seen any of the actual installs so I can't speak to what any of them looked like.
I have a White Diamond on my cue. It breaks well but I just haven't been happy with the feel of the hit when I break. I am planning on installing a Bulletproof my cue tonight to see if I like it better. Trying to decide if I should use the pad just in case.
A friend of mine was installing a Bulletproof tip on a break cue and it popped off. He re-installed it and tested it himself and it popped off again. He added a fiber pad and it hasn't popped off yet.
Do you think the pad has anything to do with this or was the installation the more probable cause and coincidentally he finally got it right?
I haven't seen any of the actual installs so I can't speak to what any of them looked like.
I have a White Diamond on my cue. It breaks well but I just haven't been happy with the feel of the hit when I break. I am planning on installing a Bulletproof my cue tonight to see if I like it better. Trying to decide if I should use the pad just in case.
They are better with carbon fiber pad. Sticks more.
Theamazing
New member
The poly carbon/bullet proof tips are tricky, butt mine is staying on. Two tries.
I'm inclined to think the fiber pad absorbs some of the energy intended fort breaking and it jumping. My success in gluing hinged on preparing the surfaces of tip and ferrule.
Some ferrules just don't stick well to clear breakers or even kamui .
Cf pads do not collapse much.
You're not even going to know it's there.
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
The one I did before had a carbon filber ferrule and a phenolic tip. I cut down the tip and left some to glue the tip to. So I guess that is like having a pad. Never came off. I’ll update when I’m done.
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
What is the best way to hold the pad to sand flat before gluing
In my experience with the bulletproof tips, the pad is not necessary, given the material used in the tip.
As far as adherance, make sure to put a few scores on the glue surface with a razor blade, it really helps the tip grip.
JMHO based upon about six installs is all.
As far as adherance, make sure to put a few scores on the glue surface with a razor blade, it really helps the tip grip.
JMHO based upon about six installs is all.
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
Not a cuemaker but in my experience, you need a perfectly flat faced tip (on flat sandpaper, 500 grit or so, and a perfectly flat ferrule. Gorilla glue gel (CA) and you will never have a tip pop. I've done this on bulletproof, phenolic, hard leather, and even the kamui clears. If your tip isn't flat (it isn't from the factory) then you risk stress causing fractures in the bond.
To flatten the tip by hand I find it useful to sand in figure 8s and rotate the tip a quarter turn after every 2-3 figure 8s. Sort of like an orbital sander to avoid any lopsidedness from the cutting action. Sandpaper flat to your work surface. Watch the tip and when it's all an even matte finish it is ready. Kamui clear especially are concave in the middle.
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
Just got back from trying the Bulletproof tip out. As for the tip I like it better than the White Diamond. Great action and the hit just feels better to me.
Sadly the other guys popped off again after two hits so maybe the pad wasn’t the answer.
Mine holding fine so far.
Sadly the other guys popped off again after two hits so maybe the pad wasn’t the answer.
Mine holding fine so far.
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Well, since this thread has turned into a discussion of Bullet Proof tips . . .
I like them and all of my customers who have tried them like them too.
I have never had one pop off. FWIW, I use Loctite 401 cyanoacrylate glue - it's industrial strength CA and no, you won't find it at your local brick-and-mortar store.
And, has been stated, it's imperative to have a flat surface on the glue side of the tip and the ferrule. Also, some ferrule materials just won't stick to CA.
A well-known cuemaker in a different forum told me he doesn't like Bullet Proofs because they mushroom easily. He said he replaced several at a tournament he serviced. I don't know if he was talking about the short tip as pictured above or the one-piece ferrule-tip that they sell.
Has anyone here had a problem with mushrooming? Do you have a picture?
Thanks!
Gary
I like them and all of my customers who have tried them like them too.
I have never had one pop off. FWIW, I use Loctite 401 cyanoacrylate glue - it's industrial strength CA and no, you won't find it at your local brick-and-mortar store.
And, has been stated, it's imperative to have a flat surface on the glue side of the tip and the ferrule. Also, some ferrule materials just won't stick to CA.
A well-known cuemaker in a different forum told me he doesn't like Bullet Proofs because they mushroom easily. He said he replaced several at a tournament he serviced. I don't know if he was talking about the short tip as pictured above or the one-piece ferrule-tip that they sell.
Has anyone here had a problem with mushrooming? Do you have a picture?
Thanks!
Gary
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
Did not mean to hijack with the Bulletproof. The pad was relevant due to my friend having issues with the tip and saying it was finally staying on with the pad. However last night his came off again so I believe it is more likely his installation technique. I had already added the pad so it is fine for me. It also looks better and defines the tip visually.
Having the White Diamond directly on a white ferrule was annoying because everyone kept asking if the tip was missing or worn down to nothing because they couldn’t see where the ferrule ended and the tip started.
I searched the pad issue previously and mostly found people think they are necessary to protect ivory ferrules but otherwise many do not think they are needed. They have an aesthetic value for some people and I think they can be helpful with avoiding overworking the end of the ferrule when facing it off especially if the tip is changed often. Facing off the pad for each install protects the ferrule so it only gets refaced occasionally when the pad gets replaced.
Having the White Diamond directly on a white ferrule was annoying because everyone kept asking if the tip was missing or worn down to nothing because they couldn’t see where the ferrule ended and the tip started.
I searched the pad issue previously and mostly found people think they are necessary to protect ivory ferrules but otherwise many do not think they are needed. They have an aesthetic value for some people and I think they can be helpful with avoiding overworking the end of the ferrule when facing it off especially if the tip is changed often. Facing off the pad for each install protects the ferrule so it only gets refaced occasionally when the pad gets replaced.
Theamazing
New member
Very clean and nice polish. Leather for clamping. I'll have to try that. Thank you
Theamazing
New member
Exactly! Something else to go wrong; why bother?
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
I use the leather straps a lot. They are easy on the wood and adjust to any diameter instantly. If you need more grip and less runout than the leather straps, I ordered these from Gary Langley (link). They work great, I like them better than the collets for most situations.
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SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
I agree simple is safer, but for when I do use one, I would still like some ideas on how to hold it to sand the first side flat. My first idea would be to make a block with a reassessed indentation that holds it enough to sand.
Since Mueller’s is out of their clear tip pads, I bought a rod of polycarbonate to make my own tip pads. Apparently, Kamui uses polycarbonate on their clear tips. I chuck the rod, face it, then use my parting tool to cut it a little oversized. I then put this piece on the ferrule, face this off to about 1/16th inch and install the new tip. So far, so good. I use the tip pad to keep from removing any more ferrule than is necessary when replacing a tip.