parts made from a CUE BALL
- Thread starter zippergun
- Start date
zippergun
Banned
took a look, thanks.
from dz cues webpage, joint collars and joint protectors which i really like
Hi,
I saw a cue a WCCS a few months ago that Joel Hercek created using cue ball stock. It had the Superman Logo on it and looked freeking amazing.
Rick
I saw a cue a WCCS a few months ago that Joel Hercek created using cue ball stock. It had the Superman Logo on it and looked freeking amazing.
Rick
Maybe not with the UV clear. I had CB ferulles at one time and they yellowed.
Cue Ball
I started using Cue Ball for my ferrules, joints and butt caps 20 years ago but after about 2 or 3 years i was having to replace them because the cue ball is a phonlic resin and it will shrink with time, Unless they have inproved their mixture.
I did like the look of them and very strong.
Thanks Gary
I started using Cue Ball for my ferrules, joints and butt caps 20 years ago but after about 2 or 3 years i was having to replace them because the cue ball is a phonlic resin and it will shrink with time, Unless they have inproved their mixture.
I did like the look of them and very strong.
Thanks Gary
How does phenolic shrink?
Cue Ball
Phenolic Resin is what a cue ball is made from, The Resin shrinks
but thats ok keep on using it dont say i didnt warn you. lol
Wow!!!!! i did not know phenolic shrink. This first time I heard of.
Phenolic Resin is what a cue ball is made from, The Resin shrinks
but thats ok keep on using it dont say i didnt warn you. lol
Were there any external conditions that you were aware of? I've never heard of this either. I know it's a long shot, but pics would be neat to see.
I think you can depend on having yellow parts. I kept a cue ball in a closed drawer for 20 years and it went in white and came out yellow. There was no UV in the drawer.
cueball parts
To those who asked:
I've never seen a cue ball ferrule, joint collar, butt cap, Hoppe ring or inlay shrink. A customer's cue I regularly see has a CB ferrule that is at least 18 yrs old. It still looks & fits just fine. As far as I know, the same is true with every other one I've installed.
Yellowing is another matter altogether. Based on my experience with this material, I believe the yellowing is caused by oxidation. It is "rusting". UV has absolutely nothing to do with it.
A cue ball sitting in a drawer will yellow but if you play with it for a while, it will brighten up again. Polishing it will also brighten it. In both cases, you are removing the oxidized surface.
A CB ferrule will remain white on a shaft that is used regularly. The simple act of handling it & chalking it regularly prevents a layer of oxidation from taking hold & discoloring it. However, the ferrule on the matching spare shaft will yellow if the shaft is unused. Fortunately, polishing it will make it white again.
CB joint collars, butt caps & inlays that are covered with clear coat will not yellow because the clear coat barrier prevents oxygen from reaching it. If the finish chips, it can yellow wherever oxygen can attack it. Polish it & re-shoot it & you're good to go again.
As I said, this has been my experience after installing several hundred CB parts. I might not have it exactly right but I think I'm pretty close.
To those who asked:
I've never seen a cue ball ferrule, joint collar, butt cap, Hoppe ring or inlay shrink. A customer's cue I regularly see has a CB ferrule that is at least 18 yrs old. It still looks & fits just fine. As far as I know, the same is true with every other one I've installed.
Yellowing is another matter altogether. Based on my experience with this material, I believe the yellowing is caused by oxidation. It is "rusting". UV has absolutely nothing to do with it.
A cue ball sitting in a drawer will yellow but if you play with it for a while, it will brighten up again. Polishing it will also brighten it. In both cases, you are removing the oxidized surface.
A CB ferrule will remain white on a shaft that is used regularly. The simple act of handling it & chalking it regularly prevents a layer of oxidation from taking hold & discoloring it. However, the ferrule on the matching spare shaft will yellow if the shaft is unused. Fortunately, polishing it will make it white again.
CB joint collars, butt caps & inlays that are covered with clear coat will not yellow because the clear coat barrier prevents oxygen from reaching it. If the finish chips, it can yellow wherever oxygen can attack it. Polish it & re-shoot it & you're good to go again.
As I said, this has been my experience after installing several hundred CB parts. I might not have it exactly right but I think I'm pretty close.
I normally don't just come out and say things like this,but Bob's words are practically gospel,no bullshit and always on the money.
In my own experience using a cue ball as raw material,I wish I had found this post before I did what this story is about.
I had already been putting tips on with my repair setup for 8 years when I started machine shop school,so I KINDA knew what was involved in running a lathe. My original instructor was the type that didn't allow you to pick up a screwdriver until you did ALL the bookwork and tests involved. This showed him you were serious,mature,and knew enough to not get yourself hurt,or tear stuff up and possibly hurt others,and weeded out the horseplay types and the guys that want to make brass knuckles on a mill,LOL.
What I didn't have is basic shop knowledge,and the very first time I ever turned a full sized lathe on,this is what I did.
At home,all I ever did on my lathe was tips,but still hadn't done a ferrule for a customer yet. Even though I taught myself the Meucci ferrule replacement well enough I felt assured I could do one as a paying gig and hand him a quality product.
One of the local players had a plain jane Meucci Original that belonged to his late father,and the ferrule was cracked. I didn't have any more blanks,and honestly this was 2 years before I ever needed to buy rod,so I thought why not use a Red Circle? When in new form,that is a BEAUTIFUL material. I also figured since I had only seen ONE that had ever been damaged enough to be truly ruined,it should hold up ok as long as the guy doesn't have a monster break.
The first time my instructor called in sick,the more advanced people in the class were still working on projects for class or what they called "government jobs",stuff they tried to keep a secret.
I asked the most advanced student to keep an eye on me because I went out to my car and came in with a ball I went to the local poolroom and bought,and told him what I wanted to do.
My plan was to drill a 1/4 hole,put the ball between centers,and turn it down to 14mm,and leave myself a small rod to cut off and leave one perfect 1 1/4 long blank,LOL.
It worked out perfect,at least at first. I saw it a couple weeks ago for the first time in years,and the ferrule was cracked,but he thought the 20.00 I charged him originally was too high.
You can just imagine how much of a mess I had wasting an entire ball for that one blank. I also burned up the drill bit,and took me an hour to clean the lathe effectively. Tommy D.
In my own experience using a cue ball as raw material,I wish I had found this post before I did what this story is about.
I had already been putting tips on with my repair setup for 8 years when I started machine shop school,so I KINDA knew what was involved in running a lathe. My original instructor was the type that didn't allow you to pick up a screwdriver until you did ALL the bookwork and tests involved. This showed him you were serious,mature,and knew enough to not get yourself hurt,or tear stuff up and possibly hurt others,and weeded out the horseplay types and the guys that want to make brass knuckles on a mill,LOL.
What I didn't have is basic shop knowledge,and the very first time I ever turned a full sized lathe on,this is what I did.
At home,all I ever did on my lathe was tips,but still hadn't done a ferrule for a customer yet. Even though I taught myself the Meucci ferrule replacement well enough I felt assured I could do one as a paying gig and hand him a quality product.
One of the local players had a plain jane Meucci Original that belonged to his late father,and the ferrule was cracked. I didn't have any more blanks,and honestly this was 2 years before I ever needed to buy rod,so I thought why not use a Red Circle? When in new form,that is a BEAUTIFUL material. I also figured since I had only seen ONE that had ever been damaged enough to be truly ruined,it should hold up ok as long as the guy doesn't have a monster break.
The first time my instructor called in sick,the more advanced people in the class were still working on projects for class or what they called "government jobs",stuff they tried to keep a secret.
I asked the most advanced student to keep an eye on me because I went out to my car and came in with a ball I went to the local poolroom and bought,and told him what I wanted to do.
My plan was to drill a 1/4 hole,put the ball between centers,and turn it down to 14mm,and leave myself a small rod to cut off and leave one perfect 1 1/4 long blank,LOL.
It worked out perfect,at least at first. I saw it a couple weeks ago for the first time in years,and the ferrule was cracked,but he thought the 20.00 I charged him originally was too high
. You can just imagine how much of a mess I had wasting an entire ball for that one blank. I also burned up the drill bit,and took me an hour to clean the lathe effectively. Tommy D.