Any feedback? Especially as it relates to:
* overall quality
* hit
* shaft (standard dayton taper
Thnx, in advance
* overall quality
* hit
* shaft (standard dayton taper
Thnx, in advance
Paul Dayton Cues
- Thread starter kasparovII
- Start date
Stiff, high quality, worth every penny
I have a Dayton Sneaky, and it is one of the stiffest hitting cues out there. Paul is an under the radar, high quality cue craftsman, and knows his stuff. I am pretty sure I read somewhere that he used to make furniture, and his knowledge of woods is extensive.
My sneaky shaft is the original, 12.65mm with a pressed lepro (mason style), and it hits like a truck. I shoot and break with it. The joint screws together tighter than any cue I have ever tried, and in speaking with Paul at Valley Forge this past year, he said he makes every joint that way. It gets harder with every turn to screw together, and it is worth the effort.
Also, check out this thread.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=28250&highlight=paul+dayton
I have a Dayton Sneaky, and it is one of the stiffest hitting cues out there. Paul is an under the radar, high quality cue craftsman, and knows his stuff. I am pretty sure I read somewhere that he used to make furniture, and his knowledge of woods is extensive.
My sneaky shaft is the original, 12.65mm with a pressed lepro (mason style), and it hits like a truck. I shoot and break with it. The joint screws together tighter than any cue I have ever tried, and in speaking with Paul at Valley Forge this past year, he said he makes every joint that way. It gets harder with every turn to screw together, and it is worth the effort.
Also, check out this thread.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=28250&highlight=paul+dayton
Nothing but the best.....
Paul Dayton cues are very good player for the money. Best wood you can buy for the money.:grin:
Paul Dayton cues are very good player for the money. Best wood you can buy for the money.:grin:
Although I've only played with one of his deluxe sneaky petes, I love Pauls shaft taper and detailed build quality. He is a highly skilled cuemaker with excellent attention to detail including how the cue balances. He uses well seasoned woods and select components in all his cues. I've been wanting to be a dealer of his cues for a few years at least, but it hasn't happened yet. 
You can't go wrong with a Paul Dayton cue, IMO.
Martin
You can't go wrong with a Paul Dayton cue, IMO.Martin
Paul Dayton cues
Appreciate the feedback so far, gentlemen...most helpful.
Appreciate the feedback so far, gentlemen...most helpful.
I own a Paul Dayton J/B see review here. Paul's craftsmanship and materials are top notch.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
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Great Cues
I used to deal with Paul on cues, very solid players. His taper is not the stiffest but very playable. He can use his billiard taper which I had on one of my cues and it was a bit stiffer. That cue had his old growth shafts, approx 12mm and still weighed 3.8oz, wood to wood.
I used to deal with Paul on cues, very solid players. His taper is not the stiffest but very playable. He can use his billiard taper which I had on one of my cues and it was a bit stiffer. That cue had his old growth shafts, approx 12mm and still weighed 3.8oz, wood to wood.
dayton cues
thanks for your input, speedy. rearding old growth shafts, i've read about them but it's never been made clear to me what the major advantages are over other premium shafts. I here about there may be a density difference but it woud seem to me that if they are heavier than a regular rock hard maple shaft it would also deflect the cue ballmore..i.e., more weight in the tip = more deflection. If you've had experience with old growth or the lake wood shafts. Any difference in the "hit"? But you know how the opinions vary. So I'd appreciate your take on the subject, if you'd be kind enough to take the time to do so.
KII
thanks for your input, speedy. rearding old growth shafts, i've read about them but it's never been made clear to me what the major advantages are over other premium shafts. I here about there may be a density difference but it woud seem to me that if they are heavier than a regular rock hard maple shaft it would also deflect the cue ballmore..i.e., more weight in the tip = more deflection. If you've had experience with old growth or the lake wood shafts. Any difference in the "hit"? But you know how the opinions vary. So I'd appreciate your take on the subject, if you'd be kind enough to take the time to do so.
KII
I had a 4 pt 4 veneer Rambow style Dayton cue which was stolen that had ivory diamond inlays and an ivory half joint with a Radial pin. Everything about the cue was magnificent except there was a bubble in the finish. I didn't want to give up the cue long enough for Paul to refinish it but he wanted to. Those shafts were 12.75mm and about 3.8 and 3.9. Not old growth but very good stuff. The shaft taper gets thicker very slowly and you would think it was a pro taper but it actually is a gradual increase in thickness. None better that I have ever tried. I later took delivery of an ebony sneaky from Paul. Similar shaft. Similar monster player. Paul's cues are about as much bang for the buck as you will find. His wraps are perfectly applied also. I can't say enough good about his work...Tom
P.S. A cue that would cost $1200-1500 from Paul would cost you $3000 from Hall Of Fame cuemakers and they wouldn't be a lick better...nuff said !
P.S. A cue that would cost $1200-1500 from Paul would cost you $3000 from Hall Of Fame cuemakers and they wouldn't be a lick better...nuff said !
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Thanks...your feedback is apprecated. I've heard nothing but great reviews from those who have played Daytons.