'Pendulum' Stroke 'Sweet Spot' ?

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ENGLISH!

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Okay,

Chris put me onto the right highway & Neil just told me what side road to take to where he wanted me to go.:wink:

It's as though there are two parallel radius rods. As the cue goes back one rod disconnects as the other takes over. Then the process is reversed as that rod releases & the other takes over.

The proper cue connect & disconnect is vital.

I have several other questions as to how to keep the cue from flying but I think I now understand why many other things are sugggested.

If anyone is trying to use this with TOI, I can understand why you may be struggling.

Thanks to ALL that actually helped & tried to help.
 

Mark Avlon

Northwest Pool School
Silver Member
I did some calculations to determine how much the tip elevation changes with a perfect pendulum stroke from perpendicular to 1" forward.

Assumptions:
Arm length 14",
Bridge length 8",
Distance between the bridge and grip 44".

At 1" forward of perpendicular, the grip elevation goes up by .036", and the cue angles downward at 0.04797 degrees. The tip is now 9" past the bridge and the tip elevation changed 0.01" (0.254mm) downward.

The length that the cue moves forward during contact is less than 1", and the change in tip elevation is less.

It would be interesting to setup an experiment with ten players with a pendulum stroke and ten with a piston stroke, and measure the accuracy of contact at various speeds.
 

ENGLISH!

Banned
Silver Member
I did some calculations to determine how much the tip elevation changes with a perfect pendulum stroke from perpendicular to 1" forward.

Assumptions:
Arm length 14",
Bridge length 8",
Distance between the bridge and grip 44".

At 1" forward of perpendicular, the grip elevation goes up by .036", and the cue angles downward at 0.04797 degrees. The tip is now 9" past the bridge and the tip elevation changed 0.01" (0.254mm) downward.

The length that the cue moves forward during contact is less than 1", and the change in tip elevation is less.

It would be interesting to setup an experiment with ten players with a pendulum stroke and ten with a piston stroke, and measure the accuracy of contact at various speeds.

That is interesting. My question would now be did you do those calculations with my old grip or my new found understanding of a 'pendulum' grip?:wink:

Seriously though, did you do those calculation with the cue actually level as it probably never is or with a slight downward angle. Just kidding. The straight line tip movement would be angled down also so it is relative.

I'm sorry for causeing you so much trouble. It was a long hard process to an easy answer.

Thank you for your efforts to try to help.
 

GaryB

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
2"x1000 would then = 1 second.... That's about 113 mph..... but I think you have only known this recently....

2" is the distance that has been estimated. 1000th of a second is the amount of time of contact by the tip to the object ball that has been proven.

Maybe you have never known this but I think you knew what I was saying all along.
 

ENGLISH!

Banned
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2" is the distance that has been estimated. 1000th of a second is the amount of time of contact by the tip to the object ball that has been proven.

Maybe you have never known this but I think you knew what I was saying all along.

Actually, I believe the contact time is between 1/1000 & 2/1000 of a second, depending on the tip hardness. It is closer to 2/1000 of a second with a soft tip & closer to 1/1000 of a second with a hard tip.

I guess the 1/1000 of a second is generally used because:
1. it is quicker to say than 'between 1 & 2 /1000 of a second'
2. not too may people use a soft tip, I generally do.
3. it often suits a purpose for an argument's sake

Regards,
 

ENGLISH!

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I fell asleep last night thinking about this grip action thing & I woke up thinking about it...& playing around with it on the dining room table.

I have not actuallly tried hitting balls with it yet but I am sure that I will, if only to prove to myself that I for one will not be using it.

I know Mr. Avlon's calculaions show a minimal amount of tip elevation change but the difference is visible to me.

If I do as Neil suggested with the butt weight onto the pinky finger the butt raises even higher on the back stroke which means the tip 'drops' even more. So... when the cue weight transfers to the ring finger on the down swing the slope of approach does shallow out but it would do that anyway. So why increase the slope by making the weight support point be the highest point in the backswing?

When the hand then continues to the finish the cue weight support point shifts to the index finger which raises the butt even higher & the tip drops in elevation. I know, the ball is gone by then. But, that means it was arcing downward through contact.

Now if I do what Chris/Renfro said, & make the weight go onto the index finger in the back swing the butt stays lower which means that the tip does not drop as much. So... it approaches on an even more shallow slope than with Neil's ring finger. Then... if the weight support point of the cue transfers toward the pinky finger as the hand comes up, the butt end stays a bit lower which means that the tip did not arc down quite as much. This is similiar to CJ Wiley's hammer wrist action but without the power due to nearly nothing but a gravity connection to the cue.

So, all I can say is that I think Chris's way keeps the cue on a more shallow slope & the transfer from index finger toward the pinky finger probably allows for a small amount of nearly straight line travel of the cue, maybe two(2) inches or a bit more for me. I have relatively small hands.

I will hit some balls with this method, but I doubt that I will be changing how I normally connect to the cue.

Also I should say that I may not have gotten what Neil mentioned correctly as he would not elaborate on his suggestion.

I know many of you don't care about any of this, but I think some do, especially based on a few PM's that I have received lately.

Regards,
 
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BeiberLvr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I fell asleep last night thinking about this grip action thing & I woke up thinking about it...& playing around with it on the dining room table.

I have not actuallly tried hitting balls with it yet but I am sure that I will, if only to prove to myself that I for one will not be using it.

I know Mr. Avlon's calculaions show a minimal amount of tip elevation change but the difference is visible to me.

If I do as Neil suggested with the butt weight onto the pinky finger the butt raises even higher on the back stroke which means the tip 'drops' even more. So... when the cue weight transfers to the ring finger on the down swing the slope of approach does shallow out but it would do that anyway. So why increase the slope by making the weight support point be the highest point in the backswing?

When the hand then continues to the finish the cue weight support point shifts to the index finger which raises the butt even higher & the tip drops in elevation. I know, the ball is gone by then. But, that means it was arcing downward through contact.

Now if I do what Chris/Renfro said, & make the weight go onto the index finger in the back swing the butt stays lower which means that the tip does not drop as much. So... it approaches on an even more shallow slope than with Neil's ring finger. Then... if the weight support point of the cue transfers toward the pinky finger as the hand comes up, the butt end stays a bit lower which means that the tip did not arc down quite as much. This is similiar to CJ Wiley's hammer wrist action but without the power due to nearly nothing but a gravity connection to the cue.

So, all I can say is that I think Chris's way keeps the cue on a more shallow slope & the transfer from index finger toward the pinky finger probably allows for a small amount of nearly straight line travel of the cue, maybe two(2) inches or a bit more for me. I have relatively small hands.

I will hit some balls with this method, but I doubt that I will be changing how I normally connect to the cue.

Also I should say that I may not have gottten what Neil mentioned correctly as he would not elaborate on his suggestion.

I know many of you don't care about any of this, but I think some do, especially based on a few PM's that I have received lately.

Regards,

If your pinky is on the butt of the cue, you need to relax your grip on the backswing. This will keep the cue level as you pull back.
 

BilliardsAbout

BondFanEvents.com
Silver Member
One more thought?

While I agree it would be fascinating to see which moves level longer, pendulum or piston (or J, etc.) across an average of top players, most strokes are ultimately angled somewhat downward, since "level cue" really means "angled downward over the interfering top of the rail".

A blend of level motion and downward angle does it through the ball. Another reason I think the "it goes level for several inches beyond the cue ball" makes little sense.

Thanks.
 

ENGLISH!

Banned
Silver Member
If your pinky is on the butt of the cue, you need to relax your grip on the backswing. This will keep the cue level as you pull back.

Thanks for the attempted help. But I don't connect to the cue in this way at all. I am just trying to undertand how any straight 'level' cue tip travel is possible for two(2) or more inches with a true pendulum stroke as randyG asserted in another thread.

Neil suggested the pinky to ring finger transfer of the cue weight support point as the means.

Personally I don't see his way working as well as the way Chris/Renfro suggested.

Either way, I'm not changing the way I connect to the cue. This was just an attempt to perhaps get a better understanding of the pendulum stroke even to the point of perhaps changing my opinion of it.

I understand what you are suggesting. I use a straight back & straight into piston & my connection is between two(2) points, one(1) on each side of the cue so that the cue can rotate or pivot as though a rod or axle runs between the two(2) connection points.

Thanks again,
 

Neil

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thanks for the attempted help. But I don't connect to the cue in this way at all. I am just trying to undertand how any straight 'level' cue tip travel is possible for two(2) or more inches with a true pendulum stroke as randyG asserted in another thread.

Neil suggested the pinky to ring finger transfer of the cue weight support point as the means.

Personally I don't see his way working as well as the way Chris/Renfro suggested.

Either way, I'm not changing the way I connect to the cue. This was just an attempt to perhaps get a better understanding of the pendulum stroke even to the point of perhaps changing my opinion of it.

I understand what you are suggesting. I use a straight back & straight into piston & my connection is between two(2) points, one(1) on each side of the cue so that the cue can rotate or pivot as though a rod or axle runs between the two(2) connection points.

Thanks again,

Rick, several things... First, there are no magic bullets. Nothing you learn will make you a great player overnight. Not going to happen. Second, you can't spend 5-10 minutes, not even a couple of hours, and say this works or doesn't work for me.

Anything new that you try will feel awkward at first. It takes training, and a lot of training (notice I said training and not just using) to add something new to your game and have it work properly.

I'll go on record as saying that I feel that 90%+ of people that don't like the pendulum stroke never really trained with it properly. I'm also pretty sure that 90%+ of those that try it concentrate too much on not dropping there elbow in game time and thereby start missing because they aren't concentrating on the proper things at hand, then they say they play worse with the pendulum stroke.

Each persons actual "feel" in the hand can be different. That will depend on how you grip the cue, how loose or tight you grip it, where on the cue you actually do grip it, what angle you actually hold the cue at, ect. You have to find for YOU what it feels like when you stroke the cue properly, and then train to duplicate that without any conscious thought.

Many also do not use the pendulum stroke properly, although they think they are. At address, the tip needs to be right at the cb, not several inches away. The forearm has to be hanging straight down, not forward or backward of 90 degrees. The shoulder has to be positioned properly for each individual so it does not come into play. For me, it's a simple matter of raising my shoulder slightly which "locks" it in place.

With training, which as with anything can take time, the pendulum is the most repeatable stroke there is. And, that is what we are after- repeatability. That it also happens to be the easiest to teach is just a bonus.

No one is saying that you or anyone else has to use the pendulum stroke to play well. You don't. But, if you aren't playing at the speed you want to now, then you have to change something to get better. Spending a few minutes on change isn't going to do anything for the better, usually only make things worse for you. Change requires actual training, which very few are willing to do. It's rare to find someone, especially that doesn't have a home table, that will actually train on something without just wanting to get their monies worth and start pocketing balls instead.

If one wants to learn a new stroke, whether that be pendulum or elbow drop, they need to work on just that. First, look at the goal, a straight , repeatable, stroke. Now, pay attention to details, what works for you, and what isn't right now, IOW, what needs to be tweeked a little for ME. Once you get that, add a cue ball, work with actually hitting the cb. Make what does work become habit for you so that you don't even have to think about it. Make it "natural" for you. THEN, and only then, add it into actual play.

But, to say something can't work without even trying it, and that goes for not trying it at all to not trying it by giving it a serious try and putting thought into it, is disingenuous. It only makes one look like a knocker and not a serious poster. Many times this is nothing more than someone unwilling to admit that there are better ways of doing something that they have been doing for many years. To admit to a better way means that the way you have been doing something was not as good as it could have been, and that you were wrong about something that cost you a lot of time. Easier to say something new doesn't work, is snake oil, a ripoff, ect., and say your way is the only correct way than start over with the new material. Who wants to admit that their way is less efficient than it needed to be?? Easier to say that it takes natural talent and have an excuse for not being at the level you want to be than to actually spend a lot of time training.
 

ENGLISH!

Banned
Silver Member
One more thought?

While I agree it would be fascinating to see which moves level longer, pendulum or piston (or J, etc.) across an average of top players, most strokes are ultimately angled somewhat downward, since "level cue" really means "angled downward over the interfering top of the rail".

A blend of level motion and downward angle does it through the ball. Another reason I think the "it goes level for several inches beyond the cue ball" makes little sense.

Thanks.

Hi Matt,

Thanks.

I realize that we are not actually 'talking' 'level'. I doubt that randyG literally meant 'level' & have substituted 'straight' at or near the transfer of the arm swinging from down to up.

But since you have brought it up in your wording, would it be better for the arm to be angled a bit back away from the ball at the set position or would it be better for it to be angled a bit forward toward the ball at the set position to get a more consistant contact?

If one strives for a perfectly perpendicular position one will invariably error to one side or the other. So would it be better to choose one side over the other & know to what side the variation will be?

Best Regards,
 

ENGLISH!

Banned
Silver Member
Rick, several things... First, there are no magic bullets. Nothing you learn will make you a great player overnight. Not going to happen. Second, you can't spend 5-10 minutes, not even a couple of hours, and say this works or doesn't work for me.

Anything new that you try will feel awkward at first. It takes training, and a lot of training (notice I said training and not just using) to add something new to your game and have it work properly.

I'll go on record as saying that I feel that 90%+ of people that don't like the pendulum stroke never really trained with it properly. I'm also pretty sure that 90%+ of those that try it concentrate too much on not dropping there elbow in game time and thereby start missing because they aren't concentrating on the proper things at hand, then they say they play worse with the pendulum stroke.

Each persons actual "feel" in the hand can be different. That will depend on how you grip the cue, how loose or tight you grip it, where on the cue you actually do grip it, what angle you actually hold the cue at, ect. You have to find for YOU what it feels like when you stroke the cue properly, and then train to duplicate that without any conscious thought.

Many also do not use the pendulum stroke properly, although they think they are. At address, the tip needs to be right at the cb, not several inches away. The forearm has to be hanging straight down, not forward or backward of 90 degrees. The shoulder has to be positioned properly for each individual so it does not come into play. For me, it's a simple matter of raising my shoulder slightly which "locks" it in place.

With training, which as with anything can take time, the pendulum is the most repeatable stroke there is. And, that is what we are after- repeatability. That it also happens to be the easiest to teach is just a bonus.

No one is saying that you or anyone else has to use the pendulum stroke to play well. You don't. But, if you aren't playing at the speed you want to now, then you have to change something to get better. Spending a few minutes on change isn't going to do anything for the better, usually only make things worse for you. Change requires actual training, which very few are willing to do. It's rare to find someone, especially that doesn't have a home table, that will actually train on something without just wanting to get their monies worth and start pocketing balls instead.

If one wants to learn a new stroke, whether that be pendulum or elbow drop, they need to work on just that. First, look at the goal, a straight , repeatable, stroke. Now, pay attention to details, what works for you, and what isn't right now, IOW, what needs to be tweeked a little for ME. Once you get that, add a cue ball, work with actually hitting the cb. Make what does work become habit for you so that you don't even have to think about it. Make it "natural" for you. THEN, and only then, add it into actual play.

But, to say something can't work without even trying it, and that goes for not trying it at all to not trying it by giving it a serious try and putting thought into it, is disingenuous. It only makes one look like a knocker and not a serious poster. Many times this is nothing more than someone unwilling to admit that there are better ways of doing something that they have been doing for many years. To admit to a better way means that the way you have been doing something was not as good as it could have been, and that you were wrong about something that cost you a lot of time. Easier to say something new doesn't work, is snake oil, a ripoff, ect., and say your way is the only correct way than start over with the new material. Who wants to admit that their way is less efficient than it needed to be?? Easier to say that it takes natural talent and have an excuse for not being at the level you want to be than to actually spend a lot of time training.

Neil,

Thank you for that post.

I understand & agree with very much of what you said in there.

But... I've never said that the 'pendulum' stroke can't work. I just don't see it as any better or even more repeatable due to the near perfect set up requirements that you outlined & for all of the arcing that the tip goes through. I am not being disengenuous. I am merely trying to investigate what is so often made out to be the savior of everyones pool game, so to speak.

I have an open mind. I have an inquiring mind. That is why I ask questions. I may not be easily or even ever convinced because I am not a follower of Pied Pipers. I will make my own determination when I have ALL of the objective info that I can gather.

I did not 'see' any straight line tip travel in a 'pendulum' stroke. That is why when Randy made his assertion in the other thread, I made an inquiry, twice. Since there was no response in that thread, I opened this one.

I now 'see' a possible mechanism that could allow for the straight line tip travel that he asserted. I doubt that I have a very good understanding of it or how to implement it or how to allow it to happen properly.

No offense, but you always seem to assume that I am asking a question just for me & my game. That is not always the case. I am fairly happy with my game but I am always open to anything that might improve it. Sometimes I am just trying to clarify some aspects for all those that just read here on AZB & never even post or ask a question.

Again, thank you for that post & I would welcome you elaborating on what happens as the cue is being delivered, either in the thread or in PM if you would prefer. I will also understand if you decline.

Regards,

PS Edit: I've had my own Sport King Table since I was 13. I moved it to my son's house after Hurricane Katrina. It will be on it's way home shortly as he has a baby on the way to his house.

Also, it would be foolish for one to throw away many many years of fine play to change just for the sake of change based on other's opinions without actually seeing any potential benefit & just based on another's say so, especially if that one wants you to pay them for that process. I am not knocking instructors. I am merely putting things into perspective. Obviously if one needs or wants help, one should seek out some qualified help, namely an instructor.
 
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Neil

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Here's Bob Jewett and Dr. Dave at real speed and slo-mo. http://billiards.colostate.edu/threads/stroke.html#acceleration

Roger Long
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWaMJQyXBAU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOyYou-f1XU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0a4-gg_RgwY

I must ask the forums forgiveness for this one, but it does have the "graphs" on it. Notice how little the cue arcs. Look at his grip and you can see why. Again, forgive me, never thought I would post anything of his on here.:sorry::eek:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A65VWWtzI9k

Andrew Green
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmRcYLVZdVI
 

Mark Avlon

Northwest Pool School
Silver Member
If one strives for a perfectly perpendicular position one will invariably error to one side or the other. So would it be better to choose one side over the other & know to what side the variation will be?

Because of the sweet spot, being slightly before (farther from the cue ball) or after (closer to the cue ball) perpendicular wont cause a problem. The farther from perpendicular in either direction, the more change in tip elevation will occur over the same distance.

There are times that being after perpendicular helps to make the shot. When the cue ball is frozen to the rail and you're shooting perpendicular to the rail is an example.

Too far before perpendicular will create significant issues with the stroke.
 

ENGLISH!

Banned
Silver Member
Here's Bob Jewett and Dr. Dave at real speed and slo-mo. http://billiards.colostate.edu/threads/stroke.html#acceleration

Roger Long
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWaMJQyXBAU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOyYou-f1XU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0a4-gg_RgwY

I must ask the forums forgiveness for this one, but it does have the "graphs" on it. Notice how little the cue arcs. Look at his grip and you can see why. Again, forgive me, never thought I would post anything of his on here.:sorry::eek:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A65VWWtzI9k

Andrew Green
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmRcYLVZdVI

Neil,

I & I'm sure others thank you for posting those.

The only one I don't remember seeing before is the one by Andrew Green, but I may have.

Now here is the thing that I have to say about them & perhaps I am wrong here or there.

The grip action that "Oyster', Mr. Green & even Mr. Long does to a bit of a lessor degree is nearly exactly what I do. However that is not what I thought was the prescribed grip for the SPF Pendulum stroke.

I thought a 'craddle' grip was the prescribed grip for a pendulum stroke, where the cue basically sits in the curve of the fingers. With that grip there is no feathering open of the grip as the hand swings up. Mr. Long's cue butt raised more than either of the other two because he did not or could not actually feather open.

I have often said that it is the path of the cue that tells what was done in the stroke. If the cue goes straight back & straight into the ball then, to me, that is not a true pendulum stroke as I have understood it & seen it in the past. That would be a piston type stroke.

I'll say it again, if the cue moves straight back & straight into & straight through then it is a piston like stroke.

If the butt of the cue moves up as the arm swings back that is the first part of a pendulum stroke which makes the tip go down. Then when the arm swings back down & the butt drops the tip comes back up. Then when the arm swings back up taking the butt with it, the tip goes back down. That is a true pendulum stroke.

That did not happen with the strokes of 'Oyster' or Mr. Green. It did somewhat with Mr. Long. So... there were two different cue & tip paths in those three(3). Two were pistion like & one was a pendulum motion.

For what it is worth I would not classify the strokes of Oyster or Mr. Green as a true 'pendulum' stroke.

If one wants to call them a modified or hybrid 'pendulum' stroke, I guess I could agree with that but I would really not want to do so. Not that "I" or my opinion matter at all. But then whose opinion really does matter?

So... it seems to me that we are back to square one. If that is what randyG meant & was talking about then I would say that he was not talking about a pendulum stroke at all unless one want's to call it the 'piston/pendulum hybrid'.

If the entire cue moves as a piston in a straight line then it is a piston stroke.

If the cue is arcing like a pendulum then it is a pendulum stroke.

If there is mix of some sort either on the back or front end then it is a hybrid stroke of some sort & I would guess it would make sense to describe the back end first as it happens first. So... a piston J stroke would better be described as a pendulum/piston hybrid. And one where the cue goes back & forth straight & then arcs down toward the cloth would better be described as a piston/pendulum hybrid.

Thanks again for posting those & making some things more obvious to me & I hope others as well.

Regards,
 
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ENGLISH!

Banned
Silver Member
Because of the sweet spot, being slightly before (farther from the cue ball) or after (closer to the cue ball) perpendicular wont cause a problem. The farther from perpendicular in either direction, the more change in tip elevation will occur over the same distance.

There are times that being after perpendicular helps to make the shot. When the cue ball is frozen to the rail and you're shooting perpendicular to the rail is an example.

Too far before perpendicular will create significant issues with the stroke.

Thanks,

I understand the margin of error aspect but my point is that if one is not perfectly perpendicular, one will be off one way or the other & that direction might vary from time to time. So, my point was to consistently favor one side a bit over the other so as to be more consistent.

I'm not sure I fully follow your last two paragraphs. Could you please rephrase them or elaborate.

Please keep in mind that I am not a pendulum player. I am a pistion type.

Thanks again & regards,
 
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FranCrimi

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What kind of a person does an instructional video in his underpants? Just wondering what kind of personality that would be.
 
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