Phenolic ferrule

Varney Cues said:
The tips will pop off sooner or later pretty much no matter what. I even used to use JB Coldweld and it worked pretty well...but still...often..."plink"...there went your phenolic tip. The way to cure this is do like I do. Create the tip with a 1/4 in. 5/16-18 threaded stem...and thread them down into an unbreakable ferrule thats drilled and tapped to accept the same. Then regular old CA gel will hold it on forever with no problems. I've never had one come off if installed in this fashion.
Now someone please hit me with some rep points for giving away top secrets to all on this forum!!!!;) :D
Oh Varney...You gave me your top secret ideas about the JB Weld, and it did not work :) I will try your method if someone wants the tip alone, but I try to sell them on the tip/ferrule combination. Thanks Kevin
 
Zims Rack said:
Actually, if the tip is installed properly, and the ferrule is not a cheap plastic (like some ferrules from China) it will not pop off! I've been using a canvas phenolic tip on my j/b cue for over a year now and it hasn't budged at all.

Just wanted to add my experience!
Zim
Zim - How do you suggest to install the tip only?
 
I install the Tip the same way I do other tips. Just be sure to rough up the surface of the tip first and use plenty of glue. I use the Loctite Super Glue Gel and haven't had any problems.

Good luck,
Zim
 
Zims Rack said:
I install the Tip the same way I do other tips. Just be sure to rough up the surface of the tip first and use plenty of glue. I use the Loctite Super Glue Gel and haven't had any problems.

Good luck,
Zim
You've been very lucky...or haven't done too many. CA simply will not hold the tip on...it WILL come off. If you don't want to stem/thread the tip into the ferrule then glue it on with Gorilla glue...just dampen one side first and let it sit with pressure overnight. ;)
 
Zims Rack said:
I install the Tip the same way I do other tips. Just be sure to rough up the surface of the tip first and use plenty of glue. I use the Loctite Super Glue Gel and haven't had any problems.

Good luck,
Zim
I've had nothing but problems with Ltte Super Glue gel on leather tips but it has held the phenolic tip on my breaker.:eek: :D Figure that out.
I use Loctite 409 now and it's been great.
 
Super Glue Gel

Zims Rack said:
I install the Tip the same way I do other tips. Just be sure to rough up the surface of the tip first and use plenty of glue. I use the Loctite Super Glue Gel and haven't had any problems.

Good luck,
Zim

I agree with you - I do it the same way for over 12 years with no problems either.
 
Busbee Cue said:
iT IS BETTER TO GET THE FERRULE AND SHAPE IT INSTEAD OF GLUEING A PHENOLIC TIP ONTO YOUR EXISTING FERRULE. iF YOU BREAK REALLY HARD THE TIPS CAN POP OFF.
I have a friend that has a J&J break jump cue. He has had it for a year and a half. The cue was sold to him with a lifetime warraty on the tip ferrule. He is already on his third shaft. The first two were black tip/ferrules. This last time they sent him a new shaft with a natural tip/ferrule. Is the natural more resistant to breaking?

Tracy
 
RSB-Refugee said:
I have a friend that has a J&J break jump cue. He has had it for a year and a half. The cue was sold to him with a lifetime warraty on the tip ferrule. He is already on his third shaft. The first two were black tip/ferrules. This last time they sent him a new shaft with a natural tip/ferrule. Is the natural more resistant to breaking?

Tracy

What happened to the black J&J tip/ferrule, did it crack, come off, or come loose?

In my experience, the ABS type capped ferrule really glues well with phenolic with loctite. I would recommend to keep the tip very thin to prevent the bending stress of prying the tip off the ferrule when a player bends and presses the tip on the table.

A canvas phenolic tip screwed into a ferrule will still crack, even though it may not come loose.
 
nipponbilliards said:
What happened to the black J&J tip/ferrule, did it crack, come off, or come loose?
Both of the black ones cracked. I was wondering, is the brown phenolic stronger than the black.

Tracy
 
RSB-Refugee said:
Both of the black ones cracked. I was wondering, is the brown phenolic stronger than the black.

Tracy

I have worked with both and I think the brown does seem stronger. I could be wrong but it sure seem's that way.
 
Busbee Cue said:
I have worked with both and I think the brown does seem stronger. I could be wrong but it sure seem's that way.
I think, it looks better. If it lasts more than 6 months, for him, then I'll know.

Tracy
 
I find that scoring a checkerboard pattern 10-12 lines across on both the back of tip and face of the ferrule helps resist the side-loading of a miscue. I make sure to go to the very, very edges of both, even if the score line is only a couple of mm long at the edges. I use the tip of an exacto knife to score in the grid, then gently plane the scored surfaces with the blade of the exacto knife held 90 degrees to the faces, to remove the burrs that raise during scoring. Blow the grid out well with compressed air to give the CA a place to go, and lay it on thick. I then place the shaft in a toggle-clamp fixture for at least two full minutes, and test the glue joint by trying to honestly pop the tip off with as much force as the pad of my thumb can take. Then I throw the shaft straight down so the tip strikes the concrete floor (like a dart thrown straight down) a couple of times for a quick stress test, then off to the lathe to cut the tip down flush with the ferrule.

Basically, this approach gives the CA interface "fins" that provide mechanical resistance to side impacts, and also effectively increases the overall surface area of the glued surfaces. It's about two minutes of additional work, but seems to work for me.
 
Busbee Cue said:
I have worked with both and I think the brown does seem stronger. I could be wrong but it sure seem's that way.

Brown is the "natural" color, and is the most stable formulation. When you load a polymer with pretty pigments (black OR white), the strength and stability will be compromised to some degree.
 
cuetique said:
Brown is the "natural" color, and is the most stable formulation. When you load a polymer with pretty pigments (black OR white), the strength and stability will be compromised to some degree.
Why would a pigment weaken the strength of the phenolic?
Thank you.
Richard
 
If I recall my chemistry correctly, the polymer molecules bond more tightly to each other when they aren't interspersed with pigment molecules. I know the same thing happens with paints when you tint them deeply -- the paint base needs to be a different formulation if it is to hold an intense color and maintain the same surface adhesion.
 
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