Phenolic Inserts?

waynewrc

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Anyone using phenolic inserts for 5/16ths, 3/8th 10 or 11 joints? I am curious as to how they holdup compared to brass or wood for the latter.
 
Seems to work very good.
My experience is based on a limited amount of jobs, but all the shafts I have plugged holds up well.
 
I love phenolic inserts, just make sure you drill your hole to the correct size.

I also love using ebony or Blackwood for inserts. Very sturdy. Natural oil keeps the threads smooth.
 
All of my shafts have phenolic inserts versus a steel pin, 3/8x10 and x14 (Cuetec).
The Cuetec is wonderful, very snuggly.
The Universal ist 2nd, very tight.
The Tiger one is a bit loose to screw in, but has no wiggle at all and a great hit.
All run on silicone grease and have zero damage or change in character.

Plus, the balance of the shaft is really nice (due to different weight).

My advice is: do the thread a little thinner than normal, that way it will really hold tight.
And use silicone grease so there is no wear at all.
 
Hi,

Here's a little tip for installing inserts.

Use .500 nominal size material cut it 1.75" long and drill a 1/8" center hole for glue relief.

Hold the insert in the chuck 1/4" with the other side in a live center and turn down to .494.

Step drill the shaft to .500 to a depth of 1.600".

File v grooves on the insert for foundation keyways and sand it to fit the hole so there is some room for epoxy.

Hold the insert in the chuck and taper sand the 1/4" end so there is a tight fit on the hole when you glue and press the insert. If the insert bottoms before the tapered area seat, face cut the other end a little until the taper seats tight in the hole.

When the epoxy cures and you cut off the insert end and face the shaft there will be zero glue line. If Dennis or Ernie inspects one of you shafts visually they will approve. LOL

Glue lines on the outside of inserts are ugly and by spending 5 extra minutes that detail will look like a million bucks.

Happy cue making,

Rick
 
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You can buy them at unique.
They sell 1/2 20 tpi phen inserts.
 
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They work well. I have inserts on my daily used cue and break cue shafts over 10 years now. 3/8 10
Never had a problem with any of the others I have installed probably 50 shafts. This refers to 3/8 10 only.

Mario
 
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I buy 1/2 in garolite with a 1/4 in hole in it from Mcmaster Carr. a 40 inch length ... about $12

Drill a 1/2 in hole in the shaft, sand the 2 in length of garolite to fit, put some glue rings on it with a file.
Glue it in the hole with 5 min epoxy.
Drill and tap it....... put a nice chamfer on the hole for a turning center.

Simple and Never had a problem on at least 200 shafts..............

Kim
 
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I fabricate mine from Garolite tubes too.
1/2 18TPI but I keep the top a little over sized .
 
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I fabricate mine from Garolite tubes too.
1/2 18TPI but I keep the top a little over sized .

Joey,

Just for the record, the Garolite LE rod is a totally different material code than the Garolite LE tube. Attlas Fiber the parent company of Atlas Billiards sells it to McMaster Carr.

The rod is much denser and it machines and threads way better than the tube.

I used the tube for a while and went back to the rod and drill the small hole at 450 rpm using "Tap Free" the oil less environmental cutting fluid because the heat build up in the blind hole.

The rod is the nuts. My finished product looks way better too with the rod. IMO Night and day!

The rod is a darker reddish brown and the tube is tan.

Rick
 
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It is my understanding that Garolite is a fiberglass material and as such will wear the pins out.

Dick
 
It is my understanding that Garolite is a fiberglass material and as such will wear the pins out.

Dick

Garolite is McMaster's brand for phenolics .
The paper based one ( XX ) machines the best .
They have them in LE and CE as well.
Good for the A-joint as well if you're into Bushka thingy.
 
Joey,

Just for the record, the Garolite LE rod is a totally different material code than the Garolite LE tube. Attlas Fiber the parent company of Atlas Billiards sells it to McMaster Carr.

The rod is much denser and it machines and threads way better than the tube.

I used the tube for a while and went back to the rod and drill the small hole at 450 rpm using "Tap Free" the oil less environmental cutting fluid because the heat build up in the blind hole.

The rod is the nuts. My finished product looks way better too with the rod. IMO Night and day!

The rod is a darker reddish brown and the tube is tan.

Rick
The XX tube is fine too.
I don't use them much these days .
I'm fine with no inserts for 3/8 11.
 
this is from wikipedia concerning g-10:

"NEMA is the regulating authority for FR-4 and other insulating laminate grades. Grade designations for glass epoxy laminates are: G10, G11, FR4, FR5 and FR6. Of these, FR4 is the grade most widely in use today. G-10, the predecessor to FR-4, lacks FR-4's self-extinguishing flammability characteristics. Hence, FR-4 has since[when?] replaced G-10 in most applications."

Dick
 
The XX tube is fine too.
I don't use them much these days .
I'm fine with no inserts for 3/8 11.

XX is a fiberglass type material and the LE is like Bakelite / Phoenlic I believe.

The XX will destroy your wood bandsaw blade stat.

Very hard material.
 
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XX is a fiberglass type material and the LE is like Bakelite / Phoenlic I believe.

The XX will destroy your wood bandsaw blade stat.

Very hard material.

Hard and Strong Garolite (XX)

Color: Opaque tan to brown, except sheets are also offered in opaque black
Maximum Temperature: 265° F
Tensile Strength: Excellent
Impact Strength: Poor
Electrical Insulator: Good
Machine: Use carbide tooling
Hardness: M100-M105

Lighter than metal but dense and strong, this paper-based material absorbs less moisture than Impact-Resistant CE Garolite. Sometimes called paper-grade industrial laminate, phenolic, or Bakelite, it is often used for gasketing and gears. All meet MIL-I-24768/11. Sheets, strips, and rods also meet UL 94HB for flame retardance.

I don't band saw them.
XX is paper based.
 
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Hard and Strong Garolite (XX)

Color: Opaque tan to brown, except sheets are also offered in opaque black
Maximum Temperature: 265° F
Tensile Strength: Excellent
Impact Strength: Poor
Electrical Insulator: Good
Machine: Use carbide tooling
Hardness: M100-M105

Lighter than metal but dense and strong, this paper-based material absorbs less moisture than Impact-Resistant CE Garolite. Sometimes called paper-grade industrial laminate, phenolic, or Bakelite, it is often used for gasketing and gears. All meet MIL-I-24768/11. Sheets, strips, and rods also meet UL 94HB for flame retardance.

I don't band saw them.
LE is paper based.
If LE is paper based instead of Linen, which code is for Linen based?
I was thinking from memory that in other company brands CE stood for Canvas Based and LE stood for Linen Based?
 
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