Pin Heater.

aphelps1

Phelps Custom Cues
Silver Member

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Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
The demo video looks promising, please give a review once you receive it and try it.
Dave
 

aphelps1

Phelps Custom Cues
Silver Member
Sorry for being so dumb but do you need a separate power supply to run it. Thanks....Rick.
Although the requirements are quite sketchy, the module needs a 5-12VDC. power supply. It also looks like 100W would be minimum Fortunately, I have two 240 watt switching power supplies that are doing nothing.

Alan
 

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Although the requirements are quite sketchy, the module needs a 5-12VDC. power supply. It also looks like 100W would be minimum Fortunately, I have two 240 watt switching power supplies that are doing nothing.

Alan

In the demo video it showed a 12 volt dc with 6 amps, which equates to 72 watts, so if you have a 100 watt output at 12 vdc, you should be fine. If one only has a couple of say 12 vdc 4 amp supplies, they can be paralleled to make an 8 amp, or 96 watt supply. I just wonder how long can the unit run without damage to the circuit. If this can run for a good period of time, the uses expand greatly, IMO. Like when stripping a cue for refinishing, a hot blade is better than a cold one. An epoxy type finish will peel like a banana with a hot blade vs a cold one. If all one has to do is plug it in and insert the blade into the coil and no open flame is needed, sounds like a winner to me. At the cost of these, I may just order 2 of them.....they seem safer than a battery charger.....:eek:
Dave
 

john coloccia

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Two tricks us guitar guys use on frets is:

1) file a round depression into a large soldering tip, plenty of solder, and touch it to the fret for a second

2) cut out a section from the tip on a gun type soldering iron, filing a couple of round depressions, and touch it to the fret. The fret completes the circuit and heats up quickly.

This blasts right through the superglue and epoxy some guys use on their frets and they actually come out pretty cleanly.

Anyhow, I'm in no way suggesting this. I'm just trying to learn and I'm curious if these same techniques work for what you guys do.
 

conetip

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
We use an induction heater at work for shrink tooling to hold the carbide cutters. It has quite a box of tricks to monitor the heat output somehow. It is all covered in so can't see the coil. But it sure does get the shank of the holder real hot real quick. To remove HSS from the holders, we put them into the deep freeze 1st. Then heat on the max size setting, Pliers onto the cutter body and pull on it as it heats. Gets them out real well. Without the cooling 1st, the HSS gets too hot and does not release very well.
Anyway, I am keen to see the outcome of what you are doing and how well it works. I have a cue with an epoxied pin that will benefit from such a device.
Neil
 

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
I got mine in a few weeks ago and finally hooked it up. I am using 2 - 12 VDC supplies hooked in parallel to provide the proper amount of amps. The recommendations I read said to turn on the PS first, then give it a few seconds before turning on the coil unit. The joint pin is a 3/8x10 at 3.5" long embedded in a defective blank. It took about a minute to get hot enough, but I went about 25 seconds more and the heat from the pin discolored the wood edge a little. The pin also got discolored from the heat. Over all well worth the $10 each price. I bought 2 just in case. The coil does get very hot, so watch what touches it after.
Dave

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