Pin replacement question

obe1

obe1

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Hello

i have a old 1990 or so well made solid ebony butt with a 5/16x18 pin.

I want to have a 3/8 x 10 installed when it is in the shop for somer minor work.

Am i asking for problems by replacing a pin just to replace for size ?

Thank you for your input.

Richard
 
pin replacement

most any cuemaker can do this.hardest part is getting the old pin out.if you have a shaft that you are matching to it,i would send it with it.
 
The hard part is not going to be the pin. Your shaft probably has an insert that is larger than 3/8 so it will have to be removed, plugged, & threaded. I guess a new insert could be oversized then made 3/8. The difference will be the slight change in feel.

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
 
I wouldn't change it unless you are trying to match other shafts or changing for weight/balance

most of the time it is a pretty easy job but sometimes the cue doesn't want to cooperate
 
juspooln said:
I wouldn't change it unless you are trying to match other shafts or changing for weight/balance

most of the time it is a pretty easy job but sometimes the cue doesn't want to cooperate
Click to expand...

I agree with this. Unless you just have to have it changed i wouldn't either. I have had the finish damage from the stress of removal.

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Do this kind of thing all the time. As stated the hard part is getting the old pin out. It must be heated to around 450 deg for the glue let go. After the old pin is removed drill and tap for 3/8 x 10 pin. Sometimes you get lucky on the shaft and the brass insert is thick enough to just drill and tap. Have seen this on some older cues. If it does not work have to drill and bore out then plug, drill and tap for 3/8 x 10
 
As long as the butt and the shaft are straight, I haven't had much problem doing this.

My 2 cents

Gary
 
Brickcues said:
Do this kind of thing all the time. As stated the hard part is getting the old pin out. It must be heated to around 450 deg for the glue let go. After the old pin is removed drill and tap for 3/8 x 10 pin. Sometimes you get lucky on the shaft and the brass insert is thick enough to just drill and tap. Have seen this on some older cues. If it does not work have to drill and bore out then plug, drill and tap for 3/8 x 10
Click to expand...

I got a Meucci pin I still can't get out....... and I've had that pin glowing RED it has been so hot and it still won't budge,lol.
 
Dirtbmw20 said:
I got a Meucci pin I still can't get out....... and I've had that pin glowing RED it has been so hot and it still won't budge,lol.
Click to expand...

Yep, have had the same problem just have to keep heating for a few more minutes. Pin must glow cherry red and smoke starts to show big time around the wood as this is the glue breaking down. Have had to do a couple of times on some pins but they will come out.
 
Brickcues said:
Yep, have had the same problem just have to keep heating for a few more minutes. Pin must glow cherry red and smoke starts to show big time around the wood as this is the glue breaking down. Have had to do a couple of times on some pins but they will come out.
Click to expand...

Thanks Alex, I figured once I got it cherry red and it didn't budge, I would have to drill it out. I kinda set it to the side and haven't messed with it in about a week, trying to figure out what to do, trying NOT to have to drill it out.


Thanks for the encouragement, I will be persistant and keep at it.
 
Drilling it out is not fun. You have to cut it off first and then take a 3 fluke carbide bit and do the drilling out. The problem is the bits cost around $75.00 to $100.00 and when drilling out steel can sometimes chip a corner of the bit and then its time for a new bit.

As I said sometimes they are hard to get out and you have to heat cherry red more than once. Is best when they start to smoke up by the wood and then of course the smoke turnes into flame. Just blow it out and keep on heating.
 
To protect the joint, I slide on 2 or 3 squares of tin foil for a heat shield and keep the torch pointed away from the joint and towards the end of the pin. Take your time and let the heat soak into the pin and down into the butt. It will take a few minutes for the glue to break down. SS is not a great conductor of heat.

Kim
 
whammo57 said:
To protect the joint, I slide on 2 or 3 squares of tin foil for a heat shield and keep the torch pointed away from the joint and towards the end of the pin. Take your time and let the heat soak into the pin and down into the butt. It will take a few minutes for the glue to break down. SS is not a great conductor of heat.

Kim
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip Kim. The tin foil is a good idea.
 
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