Pin Size

JoeyInCali said:

Joey- funny you should mention the middle, I'm working on one with the chainlink at the handle joint also, so I need that running really tight. I got the ringwork on the forearm all faced to the pin and the centerhole, now I have to decide how I want to glue It to the handle & indicate.

Superglue one portion of bare wood and fine sand it.
Indicate from that.
I do that since I don't like C rings ( or B as some would call it ).
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That's a good idea and I actually thought of sanding or sealing, but If I was'nt indicated already, would'nt there be a possibility of changing the OD, and getting an inaccurate reading? I suppose that's why you mentioned fine sanding though.

I'm not a big fan of them in theory or the transfer of feedback either, but do like the looks, and wanted to try one with rings at all points. I'll see what It feels like when It's done I guess. I've only done one other with ringwork there, and It still has excellent feedback, but that was just one solid billet ring, and this one is yet to be seen. this cue has many thin pieces, and 2 sterling rings in the assembly. Your favorite kind I'm sure;) :p :D
 
> LOTS of good info here. Dave,if you teach me everything you know,I'll give you MY Interapid matched pair,or a Starrett Last Word,your choice :P. On stuff like this,is it better to cut your pins with the same threads on the end of the pin that goes into the butt as there is on the business end,so you don't have to use 2 different taps,or easier to just cut them 5/16-18,and tap them before re-boring for the bigger threads? Tommy D.
 
Tommy-D said:
> LOTS of good info here. Dave,if you teach me everything you know,I'll give you MY Interapid matched pair,or a Starrett Last Word,your choice :P. On stuff like this,is it better to cut your pins with the same threads on the end of the pin that goes into the butt as there is on the business end,so you don't have to use 2 different taps,or easier to just cut them 5/16-18,and tap them before re-boring for the bigger threads? Tommy D.
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Just don't ask me how to cook unless it comes with a shell or sez Campbells on the outside.

Without a doubt I believe your in better shape if your pins have the same threads on the back end as what is going into the shaft. I like the 11 tpi and have the threads on the butt side undersize cut just a smidge so they don't bind at all when going in. If your using the *shoulder* type pins all the threads in the back end are doing is giving extra holding power after the glue dries. The shoulder is doing all of the aglinment(sp) for you. You still have to make sure you are prepping the pin properly before the installation. If you are using a tap to cut the threads in the butt I think you'll be in better shape if you use the 10 or 11 as you will get better threads cut into the wood. I don't use taps so I have the ability to custom fit all the threads that are cut in my cues. I get a much cleaner thread cut and I can cut male and female threads in any size diameter I would like. For example, I cut 22tpi on all my collars. If needed for something out of the ordinary I can cut the same 22's on say a .700 dia. or a .656 dia or anything I may being experimenting with.
Good luck........
 
Cue Crazy said:
I have the round end, and My indicator is just a cheapo dial, even your mitutoyo is high class to me ;) :p That would explain alot to me thinking back now. Thanks


The scroll on My chuck needs to be deburred again, but after what you guys said, I wanted to do some shimming and see what I could get. I was just able to get a handle dialed in at between .001-.002, so I guess that's pretty safe, especially If My indicator tip could be causing some of it as you mentioned. I'm still using a lightweight machine also, and thinking I'm probably lucky to get that close. I dry screwed the forearm on to the handle, dialed the ringwork in that was glued, faced, and trimmed onto that, and got the same reading as the handle, so I must have My handle pin centered well.

Your correct about the collar running smoother.


Still If you guys are getting .001 or under on any material I'm impressed, no matter how solid the machine or true your chucks are;) :)

Thanks, Greg C
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Greg.......You'll probably be OK if you are getting it that close. It might just be the equipment won't allow you anything tighter. Your right though about wood it is a little different than working metals.
Good luck.......
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
Just don't ask me how to cook unless it comes with a shell or sez Campbells on the outside.

Without a doubt I believe your in better shape if your pins have the same threads on the back end as what is going into the shaft. I like the 11 tpi and have the threads on the butt side undersize cut just a smidge so they don't bind at all when going in. If your using the *shoulder* type pins all the threads in the back end are doing is giving extra holding power after the glue dries. The shoulder is doing all of the aglinment(sp) for you. You still have to make sure you are prepping the pin properly before the installation. If you are using a tap to cut the threads in the butt I think you'll be in better shape if you use the 10 or 11 as you will get better threads cut into the wood. I don't use taps so I have the ability to custom fit all the threads that are cut in my cues. I get a much cleaner thread cut and I can cut male and female threads in any size diameter I would like. For example, I cut 22tpi on all my collars. If needed for something out of the ordinary I can cut the same 22's on say a .700 dia. or a .656 dia or anything I may being experimenting with.
Good luck........
Click to expand...
tap, tap, tap
 
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BarenbruggeCues said:
Just don't ask me how to cook unless it comes with a shell or sez Campbells on the outside.

Without a doubt I believe your in better shape if your pins have the same threads on the back end as what is going into the shaft. I like the 11 tpi and have the threads on the butt side undersize cut just a smidge so they don't bind at all when going in. If your using the *shoulder* type pins all the threads in the back end are doing is giving extra holding power after the glue dries. The shoulder is doing all of the aglinment(sp) for you. You still have to make sure you are prepping the pin properly before the installation. If you are using a tap to cut the threads in the butt I think you'll be in better shape if you use the 10 or 11 as you will get better threads cut into the wood. I don't use taps so I have the ability to custom fit all the threads that are cut in my cues. I get a much cleaner thread cut and I can cut male and female threads in any size diameter I would like. For example, I cut 22tpi on all my collars. If needed for something out of the ordinary I can cut the same 22's on say a .700 dia. or a .656 dia or anything I may being experimenting with.
Good luck........
Click to expand...
As I said...That is why you get the big bucks David :)

That all sounds so familiar.... Giving lots of secrets away buddy...
 
billiardbum said:
As I said...That is why you get the big bucks David :)

That all sounds so familiar.... Giving lots of secrets away buddy...
Click to expand...
Call our buddy and make them ball pins with shoulder and bottom threads 5 thou under .375".;)
The blacks one are already that way.
Works great. Nice thing about the black one is it's easy to grind the glue channel on that barrel.
 
billiardbum said:
As I said...That is why you get the big bucks David :)

That all sounds so familiar.... Giving lots of secrets away buddy...
Click to expand...

But no matter how hard you try....you'll never get the ingredients to the special sauce from me!
 
JoeyInCali said:
Call our buddy and make them ball pins with shoulder and bottom threads 5 thou under .375".;)
The blacks one are already that way.
Works great. Nice thing about the black one is it's easy to grind the glue channel on that barrel.
Click to expand...

He'll probably make anything you want. He is the best in the business, I believe. Everything I've ever addressed to him he has made better than I asked for.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Call our buddy and make them ball pins with shoulder and bottom threads 5 thou under .375".;)
The blacks one are already that way.
Works great. Nice thing about the black one is it's easy to grind the glue channel on that barrel.
Click to expand...
Joey,

This is the way mine are made...works great your right...glue relief put in by him also, cause Im lazy... :)
 
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