What is the reason some cue makers prefer 3/8-11 over 3/8-10? - just curious. I have a 3/8-11 pin which seems to make finding shafts for my cue a bit harder. I am guessing Kersenbrock started this trend but am not sure. Does that extra thread/inch really make a difference?
Pin Size
- Thread starter Scooter
- Start date
It's not the number of the threads that's really different on that pin.
It's the square-looking or ACME type threads that it has. It's not V-shaped. More like a l_l shaped.
It's the square-looking or ACME type threads that it has. It's not V-shaped. More like a l_l shaped.
it has to do with the contact between the pin and the wood. The "11" is made to contact more wood within the shaft, which transfers more energy, thus a better "feel." That is why Radial pins are such a hot item right now. I beleive I read somewhere that they have 97% contact as opposed to the 3/8-10 having around 65%.
The main difference, is that the points of female thread are much sturdier. Like joey said, they are not V shaped, but instead more flat-topped, and not nearly as fragile. The Tpi is pretty much irrelevant, unless you have something oddball to intentionally make it harder to reproduce.
I used to be, as a rule, a flat-faced with a 3/8-10 pin fan...until now. I very recently picked up a Josey s/p with the flat-faced wood/wood joint with a Radial pin...and I'm in heaven! Had I known that this pin would help provide me with one of the most solid feeling, stable cues...with excellent feedback from tip to bumper...I have ever had the pleasure to experience, I would have switched much sooner.
Lisa
Lisa
It's not the SIZE of your pin that matters...........it's what you do with it!!
BarenbruggeCues said:
Wink, Wink, Nudge, Nudge...
Couple of Additions
IMO, the 3/8x11 pin has more force when cue is screwed together, which IMO makes the cue hit more solid. This is one of the reasons McDermotts loosen up when played with. Now you can have the 10 pitch pin made like Joey noted early, without the V bottom pin. This also makes the 10 pitch pin hit a little better, but keeping it together might come to play... My choice of pin is 3/8-11 and when I tap in the shaft it is very tight, this also will make the hit a little sweetier than a looser shaft. Just my $.02 cents...
IMO, the 3/8x11 pin has more force when cue is screwed together, which IMO makes the cue hit more solid. This is one of the reasons McDermotts loosen up when played with. Now you can have the 10 pitch pin made like Joey noted early, without the V bottom pin. This also makes the 10 pitch pin hit a little better, but keeping it together might come to play... My choice of pin is 3/8-11 and when I tap in the shaft it is very tight, this also will make the hit a little sweetier than a looser shaft. Just my $.02 cents...
billiardbum said:
I must be doing something wrong, I offer 3/8X10, Radial and 5/16X14, Never had one loosen up yet, The first problem that should be looked at is the hole is the wrong size versus the screws, which will vary depending on where you buy them, the second is the tap that is being used, IT"S TO BIG! for the screw that is offered.
Example
If the 3/8X10 is actually a .369 or .370 OD, why do you need a tap that cuts .384! If the pitch is .280 why do you need the hole to be 5/16.
Actually, I am not suggesting anyone is doing anything wrong, I am just giving my opinions on the difference on the pins. McDermott 3/8-10 pin will come loose very often when playing with them. I have actually replaced collars that have been broken during a break, because the joint loosened during play. I personally do not like to use "V" bottom pins myself, because I like my pin to ride on a Bore of the pin, not on the actual tapped hole. This allows me to drill and bore the hole to exact size, and then tap the hole to my desired tightness. If the pin calls for .280 bore, that is where I would bore, not to .3125.Michael Webb said:
On the other hand I like the Radial pin, because you have a guided Pin when inserting in the butt of the cue. Also when you bore the hole in the shaft and butt, you have a guided tap to follow the bore.
Lastly... Reminds me of the post where I posted why I like the Ball pins to accurately place the pin, and the flat bottom pitch on the shaft side, to accurately bore the shaft... I do not believe you can accurately drill a hole, I believe you have to bore the hole to make a precise hole in the butt or shaft of the cue. This is where I personally want my Pin to ride on the butt and shaft of each cue I build. And with 11 pitch you definately get more force on the joint when tightened... Just opinions on my part... This is the pin I like to use, notice it is flat bottomed threads...
JoeyInCali said:If 3/8 10 are so inconsistently, I dunno why makers still use them.
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The never ending conversation of WHY versus BECAUSE. (Individualism)
You have to compare apples to apples and oranges to oranges. You can build 3/8-10 pins the same way as billiardbum has pictured. So if the only difference is pitch then it would be hard to tell which one hit better. Style of pin and fit is a much larger variable then pitch by itself IMO.
DAMN, CC!Canadian cue said:You have to compare apples to apples and oranges to oranges. You can build 3/8-10 pins the same way as billiardbum has pictured. So if the only difference is pitch then it would be hard to tell which one hit better. Style of pin and fit is a much larger variable then pitch by itself IMO.
That is some pin.
Did you make it?
Btw, has anyone used the radial connecting screw ( instead of their barreled pin ) as a joint screw?
Thanks Joey, yes this is my version of the Kersenbrock style pin. I am thinking of building stainless and anodized aluminium ones to.
Those would be great.Canadian cue said:
I like the way you put in the glue channel in there.
Very clean.
If you make them in 3/8 11, lemme know.
I know someone who might buy some.
Very nice pin, and exactly on the thread pitch...Canadian cue said:
Exactly...Remember that you and I might be able to get our pins to center perfectly (if there is such a thing), but the next guy cannot... This pin I use, and lots are using, makes it much easier. I have helped many customers that cannot get a traditional 3/8-10 pin to run true in the butt of a cue, to use the ball style pin, and accurately put in the butt of the cue.Michael Webb said:
Different strokes for different folks, but if it is not working for you, better change the way you are doing it.
Happy Holidays Mike.
Jim
Very nice pin...I like the Black G-10, got some on the way also... If everyone else would quit ordering from himJoeyInCali said:If 3/8 10 are so inconsistently, I dunno why makers still use them.
I like your pin Jim.
I just got some G10 ball type pin. I like em too.
I actually step drill to .3125 then thread it then bore for the guide about 1 thou under for snug fit.
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Happy Holidays Joey...Jim