planer

Blue Hog ridr

Blue Hog ridr

World Famous Fisherman.
Silver Member
Hi guys,
A few days ago there was a discussion re how you true up your point stock.
I have a chance to buy this for a good price.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v56/trycky/planer.jpg
I'm just in the process of setting up my shop, minus a cue lathe at this time.
Was just wondering if this is an acceptable way of truing up your point squares.
Thanks for your input.
 
Blue Hog ridr said:
Hi guys,
A few days ago there was a discussion re how you true up your point stock.
I have a chance to buy this for a good price.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v56/trycky/planer.jpg
I'm just in the process of setting up my shop, minus a cue lathe at this time.
Was just wondering if this is an acceptable way of truing up your point squares.
Thanks for your input.
Click to expand...

Thats what I use to do mine. You do your first pass normal and then put the side you have just planed against the back panel for all the rest of the cuts. This ensures that it is square.
 
Thanks for your answer, I appreciate it.
Theres a cue maker who also posts on here that fashioned a plastic jig for the bandsaw for cutting the stock in two. Between both the planer and jig, I believe it will work out just fine.
 
I found that when I tried to true up mine with just a jointer like that, you get too much vibration on those small pieces.

The jig Bob Dzuricky sells is well worth the $50. Use it twice and you'll pay for it. I even lost mine once and wanted to do 4 sets of points the next day, so had him overnight me another one.
 
It will be quite some time before I'm ready to do points anyway. I have some nice equipment for a start. Space downstairs is limited. I plan on buying a lathe from Chris H, reading his book and watching his videos first.
The pool hall that sponsors my team gives me all the broken house cues, so I have a a good start on practice material. When I can learn the repair end and not be ashamed of anything I put out on the street, I'll try a few cues of my own. Baby steps all the way.
 
Blue Hog ridr said:
Hi guys,
A few days ago there was a discussion re how you true up your point stock.
I have a chance to buy this for a good price.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v56/trycky/planer.jpg
I'm just in the process of setting up my shop, minus a cue lathe at this time.
Was just wondering if this is an acceptable way of truing up your point squares.
Thanks for your input.
Click to expand...

They work very well. I have an old craftsman 4 inch I bought for $5.00 at a garage sale. I put new blades on it and it really works great. The motor is built into it and when you aren't using it it just goes in a closet. I just do a few practice cuts on some scrap till it is perfect and I am ready to go. I also cut two points from one piece so I am not working from such a small piece of wood and it is easier. I square up opposite sides of the piece then split it on the bandsaw with a jig for doing so. A small one like I have only cost around $150.00 new. It is pretty much all you need. I tried all kinds of ways of sanding them but it was not as good as a joiner. Just watch you fingers and get used to working with push sticks.
 
I bought one of those with the intent of using it that way. It used up way too much precious space. I ended up making a jig similar to the one that Pete Tonkin sells and using a fly cutter on my milling machine. I'd say that the precision is more than 10x better and when I'm finished I just throw it in a drawer. I got about half of what I paid for the jointer on craigslist.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
I found that when I tried to true up mine with just a jointer like that, you get too much vibration on those small pieces.

The jig Bob Dzuricky sells is well worth the $50. Use it twice and you'll pay for it. I even lost mine once and wanted to do 4 sets of points the next day, so had him overnight me another one.
Click to expand...
Tony, have you got a link to this jig?

Thanks,
Alan
 
Tony Zinzola said:
I found that when I tried to true up mine with just a jointer like that, you get too much vibration on those small pieces.

The jig Bob Dzuricky sells is well worth the $50. Use it twice and you'll pay for it. I even lost mine once and wanted to do 4 sets of points the next day, so had him overnight me another one.
Click to expand...

I do mine from full 11/2" squares. Then when I cut the points off them, I turn what is left down to a forearm or butt.
 
Rybord said:
Here's a link to his point blank section.

http://www.dzcues.com/point_blanks.htm
Click to expand...

I'm not easily impressed. I'm skeptical of everything until I've proven to myself that it's the nuts. Mr Dzuricky's method is just that, the nuts.

His sharing of his means & methods is truly magnanimous. I'm solidly convinced that Mr. Dzuricky is a tremendous asset to this industry.

Thank You Sir, you have my respect.
 
Although I would like to have and try one of those Jigs Im not necessarly impressed. I like the jig that holds the wood for skew cutting better.

He puts a block of wood that isnt square into a jig and then machines the top peices and then workes from that origional 1st machined peice. Now in order to have a perfect machine side everything else has to be square to one another. I am not clear how He is machining it. Table saw, planner, jointer, Radial arm saw. Even so the cutting apparetus has to square to the slot grove, or the fence. Here he has more possibilites of something being mis aligned, fixture itself, slot grove, cutter. Alignment is the most critical element to getting something square. There is added benefit of this jig from a holding stand point.

If one is getting to much vibration from a jointer then I would say that something isnt right. Either you are taking to much off, feeding to fast, dull blades ect, ect,. In reality this guy is doing the same thing but has a better hold of the peice he is working on.

I sure wold like to try one to have a better prespective, im sure its much safer.
 
Ok, done some reserch. Pete Tonkin (sp) has a very similar item. Why would milling it make it more accurate. I would think that some one could built this for a table saw slot and use a table saw blade and do the exact same thing. Even if you have a cheep table saw, you could buy a nice blade for aroud $300. Do a little trial and error untill you get the results you want. Even with milling you still need to make sure everything is square in relation to the cutting plane.
 
bubsbug said:
Ok, done some reserch. Pete Tonkin (sp) has a very similar item. Why would milling it make it more accurate. I would think that some one could built this for a table saw slot and use a table saw blade and do the exact same thing. Even if you have a cheep table saw, you could buy a nice blade for aroud $300. Do a little trial and error untill you get the results you want. Even with milling you still need to make sure everything is square in relation to the cutting plane.
Click to expand...
Since the jig is dead straight and flat at the bottom, and you flip the wood after one side is cut, it'd be dead nuts.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Since the jig is dead straight and flat at the bottom, and you flip the wood after one side is cut, it'd be dead nuts.
Click to expand...

Not so! The bottom actually has nothing to do with its accuracy. Again a square blank is put in the jig in a rough state. I seriously doubt at this time any side is flat straight or true. This jig is set up for over head cutting, meaning cutting above the jig. The cutter now makes a pass. It is this pass that makes the top surface clean, straight, flat and even.

(Just like a planner. You plane one side. Now this one side becomes your refference point from which to work from. Assuming that the cutting plane is true and square to the fence plane. Even the jig itself is acting like a fence sort of speak)

Now this peice is roated to plane the adjacent side not the opposite side. This is continued untill all sides are done. Eventhough the bottom is flat and even on the jig, you couldnt take the square blank and plane the top side, then rotate it 180 degrees to do the bottom, then 90 degrees, then 180 degrees to do the opposite and get the same results. It is the cutting plane in relation to the 90 degree plane in relation to the longtatudal (sp)plane of both sides. Now if you go adding more tooling ie jig you have more potential things that could be misaligned.

Here is an experment for someone. Adjust you cutting axisis by 10 degrees. now adjust your 90 degree plane (fence) by the exact same amount. You will get the same results eventhough you bottom isnt true anymore.
 
Why would you need a jig for squaring point wood or mitering veneers anyway? Even though that's not what this thread was about, it seems to have migrated to that topic. You can build your own jig for doing veneers for $5 and you don't need a $300 blade to cut them. Most have their own methods for squaring up point stock. That was discussed in a thread here a week ago.

The original poster was just asking if that planer would work.
 
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squareness

bubsbug said:
Not so! The bottom actually has nothing to do with its accuracy.
Click to expand...

Ok, the bottom and side of the jig are square to each other. The screws hold a blob of wood against the side. Gravity holds it down. You fly cut the top perfectly smooth. Now loosen the screws and rotate the blob 90 degress so that its flat side is on the square side of the jig. Tighten the screws to hold it flush. Fly cut the top.

Now the side of the blob is a perfect 90 degrees from the top. Rotate 90 degrees. One faces the (not so worthless) perfectly square bottom of the jig and one faces the square side. The screws hold everything tight while you fly cut the top.

Rotate and repeat one more time and you no longer have a blob. You have a perfectly straignt and square point part. I'm sorry if you can't grasp it. If I had a planer instead of the nuts, I could make it work. Nuts are better.
 
dchristal said:
Ok, the bottom and side of the jig are square to each other. The screws hold a blob of wood against the side. Gravity holds it down. You fly cut the top perfectly smooth. Now loosen the screws and rotate the blob 90 degress so that its flat side is on the square side of the jig. Tighten the screws to hold it flush. Fly cut the top.

Now the side of the blob is a perfect 90 degrees from the top. Rotate 90 degrees. One faces the (not so worthless) perfectly square bottom of the jig and one faces the square side. The screws hold everything tight while you fly cut the top.

Rotate and repeat one more time and you no longer have a blob. You have a perfectly straignt and square point part. [B]I'm sorry if you can't grasp it. [/B] If I had a planer instead of the nuts, I could make it work. Nuts are better.
Click to expand...




Oh, I grasp it all right. I am fully awear of the process. Im just stating that is not the bottom that makes it square. If this were so you wouldn't need to keep planning the adjacent sides, but you do.

"Since the jig is dead straight and flat at the bottom, it'd be dead nuts."!
 
bubsbug said:
Oh, I grasp it all right. I am fully awear of the process. Im just stating that is not the bottom that makes it square.
Click to expand...
The side makes it square. The bottom keeps it parallel. YOU NEED BOTH.
 
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