pocket angle

[Cruzin]

What pocket angle works for the best playability? Assume the outside opening is 4 1/2" and a self depth of 1 3/4".

o 45 degrees/135 degrees
o 46 degrees/136 degrees
o 47 degrees/137 degrees
o 48 degrees/138 degrees
o 49 degrees/139 degrees
o 50 degrees/140 degrees
o 51 degrees/141 degrees
o 52 degrees/142 degrees
o 53 degrees/143 degrees

 

[xianmacx]

What pocket angle works for the best playability? Assume the outside opening is 4 1/2" and a self depth of 1 3/4".

o 45 degrees/135 degrees
o 46 degrees/136 degrees
o 47 degrees/137 degrees
o 48 degrees/138 degrees
o 49 degrees/139 degrees
o 50 degrees/140 degrees
o 51 degrees/141 degrees
o 52 degrees/142 degrees
o 53 degrees/143 degrees

I think Diamonds use 141 or 142 and they seem to be pretty popular with players.

 

[n10spool]

53 degre is most commonly known as stock from just about all table manufactures, and it does spitt balls out regularly, you got to hit the pocket correctly.

51 degrees give you a smaller pocket and smaller target to shoot at soon to be a favorite angle for one pocket players.

45 and 48 degree I have done you get a small poket & small target but it actually lets the ball pocket easier like a catcher's glove. run balls down the rail like butter. A few shots a way harder but it just plain out makes it easy to axcept balls the. If you go back to 51 degree or 53 degree which will spitt balls out more and actually force you to make concintrate on making the shot more.

Some other variables like opening size 4"front point to point cut at 53 degrees that would the ticket big target small pocket 3-1\2" in the back roughly.

As you tighten pockets the slate shelf comes back out into the playing field also you will need to lengthen the slates again.

Kinda reminds me of the first generation Diamonds with the deep shelfs everyone hated for awhile.

Hopefully you will see th e picture clearer.

Craig

 

[Cruzin]

Thanks Craig, I'm replacing both my subrail and cushions on a 1930's table and wanted to get the size and angle of the corner pocket to be more playable. I'm thinking I will cut the angle at 48 degrees with a 4 3/4" opening. Any thoughts on this? Thanks again, Joel

 

[Solartje]

could you maybe give a list for the different openings that give the best playability?


I know glen does with

4 1/2 = 141
what about the angle for these openings?
4 1/4
4 1/8
4
etc

 

[n10spool]

Depends on what games your playing and how you want the table to play hard and tight stay @ 51 or 53 degrees want it easier get closer to a 45or 48 degree opening.

dra it out on paper all the different angles and size openings then you can see how the balls stay out more or the pockets axcepts the ball easier like a catcher's glove.

After doing several tables I can see were 51 degrees any size opening is real nice. 53 degree keeps the table playing the same as tournament tables stock angle's spit balls if not hit true and you can still tighten down to a 4" pocket and have room to rattle balls the shelf will still desappear so might still want to extend the slate.

I talk to Glen about it from time to time as I do more tables and learn more about what you get or lose with different size openings, angles and depth of slate there's alot to absorb.

43and 40 degree give you a small target but a large pocket to axcept balls if you can hit between the points.

Craig

 

[Dead Crab]

Thanks Craig, I'm replacing both my subrail and cushions on a 1930's table and wanted to get the size and angle of the corner pocket to be more playable. I'm thinking I will cut the angle at 48 degrees with a 4 3/4" opening. Any thoughts on this? Thanks again, Joel

When you change the pocket angles, you will also change the shelf depth. I would suggest that before you start altering the rails, you get some scrap 2x4 stock and bond some 1/4" stock (plywood or hardboard is fine) to it to make it 1.75" thick (which is what I assume your rail thickness is).

Using this stock, cut out some "dummy" rails at different angles, and position them on your table pockets. Then you can get the whole picture (opening, throat, shelf) before you alter the original rails.

When you get the set-up that you like, the dummy that worked best can be kept and used as a guide to set up your compound miter saw later.

 

[Cruzin]

Thanks, I have set up several mock rails and in the process of determining which one works best for my table. Being a woodworker/cabinet maker, retired woodshop teacher, I've been enjoying this process. I've also made new wood veneers for the outside side of the rails. The sides of the rails were in bad condition so the 1/4" veneers are making them look new again.

Again, thanks for all your guys help. Joel

 

[n10spool]

You will probably find that 51 degrees + 12 degree down angle wouldld be the best in corners If you just love to play the game. Remember its a compound double angle cut.

Side pockets are 12 degree cut +12 degree down angle, you should get smaller the 41\2" you lose to many shots.

Several pro's are switching back from 48 and 51 degree to 53 again to stay consistant with tournament tables but still shrinking the overall pocket down to 4-4 1\2"

Since you work with would alot you should pick this up fairly quick. I spent the last hour going through old post Of Realkingcobra just to se if there are any good photo's and drawing. There's alot of info in useing the search feature of this forum.


Craig