I am about to have the facings on my 8 foot Olhausen replaced with 3/16 neoprene facings. My mechanic suggests 60 durometer hardness. Is that what is recommended by those who know about this fix? Thank you.
Pocket Facings for Olhausen
- Thread starter Logandgriff
- Start date
My research strongly indicates that replacing the facings reduces the problem.
I put 60d on my Diamond. I believe you find consensus in the ask a mechanic forum.
Its not as much the facings as it is the pocket angles. The only real way to fix Oly's is new rubber cut to proper angles. This has been covered a lot in the Ask a Mech. section.
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Right but changing the facings seems to help significantly. I’ll report back.
The "Olhausen Rattle" will not be fixed by just replacing the facings, regardless of what you want to tell yourself. The angle of the pocket openings needs to be reduced. There are two ways to fix this.
1. Subrail extensions, pockets recut to correct angles and desired size, new cushions and facings installed
2. Quarter inch facings installed and pocket angles altered by sanding the facings down to the correct angle with a sanding disk on a table saw
I would not do Option 1 on an 8' Olhausen home table unless you have the skillset and tools to do it yourself. The cost to have it done by a pro will be more than the table is worth. Option 2 was executed by a forum member (can't recall who) and he reported favorable results; not as good as Option 1, but an improvement. Again, this may cost more than the table is worth to have a pro do it, if you can find someone willing to do it as it's not a normal service provided by most.
You can go through the expense of having someone change the facings and recover the rails but you will be left with what you started out with. 60 Durometer 3/16" facings are standard and I'd be surprised if you didn't already have those installed on your table.
1. Subrail extensions, pockets recut to correct angles and desired size, new cushions and facings installed
2. Quarter inch facings installed and pocket angles altered by sanding the facings down to the correct angle with a sanding disk on a table saw
I would not do Option 1 on an 8' Olhausen home table unless you have the skillset and tools to do it yourself. The cost to have it done by a pro will be more than the table is worth. Option 2 was executed by a forum member (can't recall who) and he reported favorable results; not as good as Option 1, but an improvement. Again, this may cost more than the table is worth to have a pro do it, if you can find someone willing to do it as it's not a normal service provided by most.
You can go through the expense of having someone change the facings and recover the rails but you will be left with what you started out with. 60 Durometer 3/16" facings are standard and I'd be surprised if you didn't already have those installed on your table.
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I played for 8 years in Florida mostly on a 9 foot Olhausen. Yes the pocket angle is a huge issue. I can tell you that it takes almost pro caliber position play to reduce the pocket issue to minimum affect on one's game. Any time you get a bit out of line, where the cue ball needs to travel several feet AFTER pocketing the ball for correct shape, your required speed of stroke will bring that faulty pocket into play.
New or additional facings will not be the cure. I believe that, as others have said, you need to change that pocket angle OR become a pro caliber cue ball shape artist- One is very expensive- new rubber install - the other is almost impossible.
So, my input is, if this bothers you enough, get a new table, or try your method and if not happy- then get a new table.
New or additional facings will not be the cure. I believe that, as others have said, you need to change that pocket angle OR become a pro caliber cue ball shape artist- One is very expensive- new rubber install - the other is almost impossible.
So, my input is, if this bothers you enough, get a new table, or try your method and if not happy- then get a new table.
There is another option!
This actually makes an Olhausen perfect for practice as you have to be able to hit a smaller target <pocket>.
Well, it really is Not about hitting a smaller pocket target as much as it is, playing on a standard Olhausen, that you need to have pro level CB position skills in order to not have to move the CB with significant speed to your next desired position spot. A correctly struck OB may rattle on an Olhausen when it should not - nobody hits every pocket WO ever touching a pocket facing - hitting a pocket facing on an Olhausen is just gambling, period!
Pool should not be about hitting smaller targets, it should be about hitting the pocket at the correct speed to pocket a ball and move the CB to the next desired position. That speed should not have to be so restricted by a poor pocket configuration that the only way to take ball pocket gambling out of a standard Olhausen pocket is to be close enough to each shot- at an almost perfect angle, to move the CB to the next position zone using a low pocket speed stroke. We are talking close to pro position play to have a standard Olhausen pocket balls as a correctly angled pocket would do under normal and correct playing conditions.
The only players that I have seen in person play for multi hour sessions on a standard Olhausen and not rattle too many balls were pro or close to pro caliber players. I do not consider it " good practice" for the average player to play under these conditions- the frustration would chase most from the idea of becoming a much better player.
Option 3: Have new rails made with the pockets cut to the desired specs. This is what I did to solve the “Olhausen Rattle” problem: