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Based on the experience of all you readers out there, whats a good pocket size for a table that you will play all games on? That is, if you're a freak like me and enjoy playing on super tough equipment.
I'm asking because I just bought a Gold Crown for my house and it's shimmed to 4 1/4. I want the table tighter, but not so tight that it becomes unfair. What I mean by that is, if I have to punch the ball at a shallow angle for position or shoot a ball down the rail at speed, I want the ball to go in as long as I hit the center of the pocket opening.
The plan right now is to do away with the shims and and have extended rails put on and make the pockets 4". I would like to go tighter, but not to the point that the pockets won't accept well struck balls at speed.
What do you think? Any suggestions?
Based on the experience of all you readers out there, whats a good pocket size for a table that you will play all games on? That is, if you're a freak like me and enjoy playing on super tough equipment.
I'm asking because I just bought a Gold Crown for my house and it's shimmed to 4 1/4. I want the table tighter, but not so tight that it becomes unfair. What I mean by that is, if I have to punch the ball at a shallow angle for position or shoot a ball down the rail at speed, I want the ball to go in as long as I hit the center of the pocket opening.
The plan right now is to do away with the shims and and have extended rails put on and make the pockets 4". I would like to go tighter, but not to the point that the pockets won't accept well struck balls at speed.
What do you think? Any suggestions?
All the tables at my previous room were gold crowns with 4.5" pockets. They had two that were 4" and all the rest were buckets until they had a big pro tournament and decided to make all the pockets in the room a standard 4.5 inch "pro cut." Truth be told though, I always liked the 4" pockets and tried to talk them into tightening at least one table back up but they wouldn't.
How do straight cut pocket facings affect difficulty? I'm measuring the pockets at the tips, so it seems straight cut facings would actually help the ball go in easier if two pockets were the same width at the tips--one with a standard cut and the other straight cut facings.
Thanks for the input, Lou. It's always appreciated!
Has nothing to do with impressing anyone. I like tight pockets...
In my opinion 4" is too tight to play the game correctly. It eliminates too many shots and the ability to cheat the pocket at all for position from the game to a point that dimishes the game. I personally think 4.5" pockets are the right size to play competitively on. It allows all reasonable cuts and a chance to cheat the pockets, but is by no means easy, especially, if your shelf is configured correctly. For tighter pockets to practice with, pocket reducers can be used. I put them in to drill with, but generally take them out ok for game play.Based on the experience of all you readers out there, whats a good pocket size for a table that you will play all games on? That is, if you're a freak like me and enjoy playing on super tough equipment.
I'm asking because I just bought a Gold Crown for my house and it's shimmed to 4 1/4. I want the table tighter, but not so tight that it becomes unfair. What I mean by that is, if I have to punch the ball at a shallow angle for position or shoot a ball down the rail at speed, I want the ball to go in as long as I hit the center of the pocket opening.
The plan right now is to do away with the shims and and have extended rails put on and make the pockets 4". I would like to go tighter, but not to the point that the pockets won't accept well struck balls at speed.
What do you think? Any suggestions?