Point jig for the Deluxe

Blue Hog ridr

Blue Hog ridr

World Famous Fisherman.
Silver Member
Just as a matter of interest for those that might not get the Cue Man E Letter.

Chris is now offering a jig that attaches to the Deluxe to make it easier to
cut points to a forearm.

I bought a proto type from Deco Cues some time ago but haven't got around
to figuring out how it might be installed on my Deluxe. I mean by proto type that Deco wasn't making jigs to fit the Deluxe. It was a jig that he used when he designed the jig for a full size lathe.

Thought I'd mention it as its a decent price and it would probably cost you the same or more plus your hours to make and install it.
So much easier when its a bolt on and away you go. I am a happy camper.
 
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Since you posted this up I will paste the part of my Cue Smith e-letter that was sent out about it.

NEW LATHE ITEM:
We now have our own large CNC mill and are starting to produce some new products for our lathes. I have been building taper bars for the last month or so and slipped in a new item while I had it set up for them. I now have a 15 inch long taper bar for points. It mounts right on top of the shaft bar, or for those with removable shaft bars it will mount in place of the shaft bar. It comes on and off with only two screws, or you can leave it on permanently. If you have the old style lathe with the large roller bearing you will need a new roller bearing that is only 7/8” outside diameter.
Introductory price is:
15” Point Taper Bar $35
7/8” Roller Bearing $15
The advantage to having the point taper bar is that you never have to offset your tailstock and it is more accurate. When used with our spur driver it makes making re-cut points much easier also.
My son has my camera so I can't post any pictures yet. Since this item has to do with making points I will remind everyone we make a veneer mitering jig for your router or table saw for $75. These items make point work almost a breeze.
We take paypal, credit cards and money orders.
 
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Sorry Chris, I know you usually don't post your news letter on here.
Its just me. When I see something that I like, I have to advertise it more.

And like you mentioned, now that you have a CNC, I think there are many more nifty little jigs that can be adapted to the Deluxe to make life easier.

Using this taper jig, is it long enuff to use on a piece of square stock to cut the forearm for a sneaky pete?
 
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I was using the same set up a while back on my old deluxe to cut points. I took the shaft taper bar off and attached a spare leather wrap jig as a taper bar. After adjustments I got a perfect and locked it down. The only issue was the end of the point was pretty close to the limit. Gave me perfect 10in points that could almost touch at the bottom.

It's nice to see you offering this now. I thought about approaching you with this idea years ago but didn't or maybe I did. Dont remember.
 
Blue Hog ridr said:
Sorry Chris, I know you usually don't post your news letter on here.
Its just me. When I see something that I like, I have to advertise it more.

And like you mentioned, now that you have a CNC, I think there are many more nifty little jigs that can be adapted to the Deluxe to make life easier.

Using this taper jig, is it long enuff to use on a piece of square stock to cut the forearm for a sneaky pete?
Click to expand...

It is okay posting this up. I just usually like to give my subscribed mailing list customers first shot on new products. On some products that are very limited quantity I never even put them on my site, as they are exclusively for those who have my lathes and are on the list. But this product is something I plan to keep making. But the fixture for taper bars it a lot of work to set up so I won't be making any more for a year or so after I tear it down as I just made 45 sets of normal taper bars.
To answer your question:
You have almost 15" of actual point groove cutting capability, so you could cut the grooves into the forearm at one end and the extra length on the other end of the forearm would not even come into play. But if you want to put the joint end at the headstock then you could slide the headstock back a few inches and still be able to cut the grooves on a longer piece in that direction.
 
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dave sutton said:
I was using the same set up a while back on my old deluxe to cut points. I took the shaft taper bar off and attached a spare leather wrap jig as a taper bar. After adjustments I got a perfect and locked it down. The only issue was the end of the point was pretty close to the limit. Gave me perfect 10in points that could almost touch at the bottom.

It's nice to see you offering this now. I thought about approaching you with this idea years ago but didn't or maybe I did. Dont remember.
Click to expand...
I really haven't felt the need to build these as showed everyone how to make a homemade one in the new Point and Inlay DVD. It was clamped temporarily onto the bottom of the butt bar. If someone wanted to they could drill two 10-32 holes in their butt bar and mount this one permanently down there also instead of on top of the shaft bar. But to go on the shaft bar their is no machining needed. But since I had the machine set up to run the taper bars I thought I would make it easier for everyone and the machined edge is probably a little truer than any material you can go buy.
 
This is a needed addition. If you haven't built one already you need to get one.

I have one on each lathe. One for standard points and the other for full splice. The full splice never moves. When I change the angle for half spliced points I mark the spots. When a cue is finished I measure the point length and label the spots with ??" so I can easily repeat the length. With time you can have quick adjustment for any point length you need.

You need this tool.
 
It's the only think your machine was missing to be a complete all in one machine. I love all the upgrades you made to the new deluxe. I actually used an extra leather wrap jig you offer. Bolted it down with same bolts as the shaft bar uses and marked a line. I can take it off if needed and put it right back in seconds.
 
cueman said:
Since you posted this up I will paste the part of my Cue Smith e-letter that was sent out about it.

NEW LATHE ITEM:
We now have our own large CNC mill and are starting to produce some new products for our lathes. I have been building taper bars for the last month or so and slipped in a new item while I had it set up for them. I now have a 15 inch long taper bar for points. It mounts right on top of the shaft bar, or for those with removable shaft bars it will mount in place of the shaft bar. It comes on and off with only two screws, or you can leave it on permanently. If you have the old style lathe with the large roller bearing you will need a new roller bearing that is only 7/8” outside diameter.
Introductory price is:
15” Point Taper Bar $35
7/8” Roller Bearing $15
The advantage to having the point taper bar is that you never have to offset your tailstock and it is more accurate. When used with our spur driver it makes making re-cut points much easier also.
My son has my camera so I can't post any pictures yet. Since this item has to do with making points I will remind everyone we make a veneer mitering jig for your router or table saw for $75. These items make point work almost a breeze.
We take paypal, credit cards and money orders.
Click to expand...

Do you think that the veneer mitering jig is a better solution than the extra taper bar?
 
opiesbro said:
Do you think that the veneer mitering jig is a better solution than the extra taper bar?
Click to expand...
The taper bar is for cutting point grooves. The veneer jig is for cutting the 45 degree angle on the veneers to go into the grooves.
 
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