Points in cue handle opinions?

[Angle Detective]

Thinking about a custom cue and wondering if points in the handle make much of a difference in the feel of a cue, or is it mostly the joint and above that creates the hit?
Thanks

 

[qbilder]

Points are mostly for visual effect, design. But they do much more structurally. True v-groove points can add or subtract weight in the forearm, fine tuning the overall balance of the cue. Example, ebony forearm opposed to ebony forearm with maple points. The solid ebony will weigh roughly .5oz more, pushing the frontward balance of the cue up. Point material can also dampen or strengthen a forearm depending on if it is stronger or weaker than the base wood. So even if the differences in feel are minute, there is structural reasons for points besides asthetic design.

 

[Bob Jewett]

Thinking about a custom cue and wondering if points in the handle make much of a difference in the feel of a cue, or is it mostly the joint and above that creates the hit?
Thanks

In my opinion, it's far more important to be sure that the handle is not a separate piece of wood. The wood in the forearm should extend clear back to the butt plate. Many wrapped cues have a separate piece of cheaper wood under the wrap. It requires two extra joints to do that. This is why you should buy a cue without a wrap and then add one later if you really, really want one.

 

[Paul Dayton]

Well that rules our almost every custom cue maker since 1960.

A full splice cue is at least t.wo pieces of wood

 

[Angle Detective]

Thanks for the replies. Bob, it just so happens that I prefer a wrapless cue. That's one thing I like about my Meucci. I don't have a problem with sweat, and I like the slight cling that I get with no wrap.

I hope I used the term "points" correctly. After reading "splice" in Paul's post, I'm not so sure. What I am referring to is the way a typical house cue looks--two pieces, usually differently colored, intermeshed with 4 points of each color.