90% of all the photos I have shot in a pool room fall into these settings:
Manual setting
f stop of 2.8
ISO 800-1600 (depending on the total ambient light level)
If you are using Auto White Balance take a shot of the balls to make sure the color is not all screwed up. If it is, manually balance the camera using a 18% gray card, or in a pinch a white sheet of paper under the light.
Shutter: 1/60 - 1/125
Shutters on almost all DSLR's are loud enough to shark a player unless you are pretty far away or it is a very noisy room. Don't be that guy, wait till after contact or before they get down on the ball to shoot.
Turn off the auto focus assist light on your camera (the little red light that shines to help your camera focus). This wont take long to figure out after the death glare you will get when you light up a player down on the case ball.
If you are a serious hobbyist buy two good lenses (Nikon and Canon are essentially the same here):
70-200 2.8 VR (for Nikon) or IS (Canon) $1500-$1700
24-70 2.8 (both Nikon and Canon offer this lens) $1300ish
If you are only going to buy one to start, buy the 24-70. It is more versatile. If you want a pretty close version of the 24-70 without dropping so much coin I recommend the Sigma 24-70 2.8. I bought mine for $350 used from Adorama and it is the nuts. I may spend the extra $1000 on the Nikon equivalent someday but I am in no hurry and would have to really test a Nikon copy to see if would make that big a difference to me.
If you shoot with the 70-200 a monopod makes it much easier but is also that much more to lug around. I use a Manfroto and it has served me well. If you want to get uber-tricky you can pick up a Gitzo Carbon Fiber and the weight loss of the monopod will be almost as large as the weight loss in your wallet.
Any decent new DSLR body will do just pick the one you like best in your price range. All the money will be spent on glass so pick your brand based on the lenses you like, bodies come and go, lenses last. Pick Nikon or Canon don't fool with off brands.
The key is finding ways to get pictures of the players other than down on a ball. There are eleventybillion pics of all known players on earth down on a ball. If you really want cool pics you have to keep your eye in the shutter and shoot when everyone else is looking at the back of their camera to see if they got the "down on the ball" shot right for the millionth time. It is not easy. Mason King told me something I will never forget about pool photography "All the interesting stuff happens after the shot" Want those wild reaction shots? Stay in the camera and wait to see the look on Earl's face when the ball skids or Alex's reaction when that kick on the 3 ball goes in.
If you really want to experience pool photographer heaven shoot the TV table at a major event. Those lights make it almost too easy.
Most important is to have fun.
Manual setting
f stop of 2.8
ISO 800-1600 (depending on the total ambient light level)
If you are using Auto White Balance take a shot of the balls to make sure the color is not all screwed up. If it is, manually balance the camera using a 18% gray card, or in a pinch a white sheet of paper under the light.
Shutter: 1/60 - 1/125
Shutters on almost all DSLR's are loud enough to shark a player unless you are pretty far away or it is a very noisy room. Don't be that guy, wait till after contact or before they get down on the ball to shoot.
Turn off the auto focus assist light on your camera (the little red light that shines to help your camera focus). This wont take long to figure out after the death glare you will get when you light up a player down on the case ball.
If you are a serious hobbyist buy two good lenses (Nikon and Canon are essentially the same here):
70-200 2.8 VR (for Nikon) or IS (Canon) $1500-$1700
24-70 2.8 (both Nikon and Canon offer this lens) $1300ish
If you are only going to buy one to start, buy the 24-70. It is more versatile. If you want a pretty close version of the 24-70 without dropping so much coin I recommend the Sigma 24-70 2.8. I bought mine for $350 used from Adorama and it is the nuts. I may spend the extra $1000 on the Nikon equivalent someday but I am in no hurry and would have to really test a Nikon copy to see if would make that big a difference to me.
If you shoot with the 70-200 a monopod makes it much easier but is also that much more to lug around. I use a Manfroto and it has served me well. If you want to get uber-tricky you can pick up a Gitzo Carbon Fiber and the weight loss of the monopod will be almost as large as the weight loss in your wallet.
Any decent new DSLR body will do just pick the one you like best in your price range. All the money will be spent on glass so pick your brand based on the lenses you like, bodies come and go, lenses last. Pick Nikon or Canon don't fool with off brands.
The key is finding ways to get pictures of the players other than down on a ball. There are eleventybillion pics of all known players on earth down on a ball. If you really want cool pics you have to keep your eye in the shutter and shoot when everyone else is looking at the back of their camera to see if they got the "down on the ball" shot right for the millionth time. It is not easy. Mason King told me something I will never forget about pool photography "All the interesting stuff happens after the shot" Want those wild reaction shots? Stay in the camera and wait to see the look on Earl's face when the ball skids or Alex's reaction when that kick on the 3 ball goes in.
If you really want to experience pool photographer heaven shoot the TV table at a major event. Those lights make it almost too easy.
Most important is to have fun.
