I am sure Don with Creative Inventions could help me but Muellers fields all there calls now. My .headstock is within a half a thousands. When I chuck in a pointed dead center to my headstock and one in my tailstock they do not meet perfect. Any ideas on how to get these to line up so I can bore accurately. Hopefully some one has had a similar experience. I think I need to adjust somethimg in the tailstock but kind of lost.
Porper Model B HELP!!!
- Thread starter bob_bushka
- Start date
I am unaware of the tailstock being involved in boring. Do you mean drilling, or are you somehow trying to use a boring bar in the tailstock?
TW
u are right....drilling
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g82VrVXmE64
Buy a co-ax and line up that tailstock.
Buy a co-ax and line up that tailstock.
Hi,
Watch the tail stock aligning video in the page below.
It starts out with faceing the chuck face plate before indicating and adjusting the tail stock.
Just touching two centers together and visulizing is not the way to go. Some people do that and think it is ok.
Drilling an undersize hole and then boring takes any tailstock error out of the mix.
If your tail stock in not properly aligned any billets will have different ODs on each side because they will have a slight taper. You can take a billet stock piece and turn it, then measure each end and you can see numbers that will show any error you may have. I would do that first.
Good luck,
Rick
http://www.ilahikitabi.com/Video/VIDEOIDck2AJgzJhTA/Optimum-D180x300-Tailstock-alignment
Watch the tail stock aligning video in the page below.
It starts out with faceing the chuck face plate before indicating and adjusting the tail stock.
Just touching two centers together and visulizing is not the way to go. Some people do that and think it is ok.
Drilling an undersize hole and then boring takes any tailstock error out of the mix.
If your tail stock in not properly aligned any billets will have different ODs on each side because they will have a slight taper. You can take a billet stock piece and turn it, then measure each end and you can see numbers that will show any error you may have. I would do that first.
Good luck,
Rick
http://www.ilahikitabi.com/Video/VIDEOIDck2AJgzJhTA/Optimum-D180x300-Tailstock-alignment
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Porper tailstocks
Porper tailstocks are not adjustable at all. I guess no one on here has ever seen one.
The tailstock quill bore is not concentric with the headstock axis. That's probably what's wrong. Mine is .030" out (!), which seems pretty typical on these lathes.
These tailstocks are seldom if ever bored correctly so there is no good way to easily correct this problem...as I said, there are no adjustments available.
You can use your taper bar to correct for this for if you are making dowels for example but you will always get a conical hole when you drill one due to this alignment problem.
Straight holes are made by boring anyway, not by drilling.
I would buy a new tailstock for my own Porper lathe if it would fix the problem but I believe that virtually all of them are improperly machined like this. I have other machines to use anyway.
Any comment from Porper experts like Ryan or Don, for example, would be great.
Robin Snyder
Porper tailstocks are not adjustable at all. I guess no one on here has ever seen one.
The tailstock quill bore is not concentric with the headstock axis. That's probably what's wrong. Mine is .030" out (!), which seems pretty typical on these lathes.
These tailstocks are seldom if ever bored correctly so there is no good way to easily correct this problem...as I said, there are no adjustments available.
You can use your taper bar to correct for this for if you are making dowels for example but you will always get a conical hole when you drill one due to this alignment problem.
Straight holes are made by boring anyway, not by drilling.
I would buy a new tailstock for my own Porper lathe if it would fix the problem but I believe that virtually all of them are improperly machined like this. I have other machines to use anyway.
Any comment from Porper experts like Ryan or Don, for example, would be great.
Robin Snyder
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Gainey Q's
Registered
Have you disassembled your Chuck lately for cleaning purposes? If so, you probably have your jaws misaligned. Just keep opening the jaws all the way and reposition the order in which they start to thread.
But....
It's not a runout problem; it's not about the chuck. It's an alignment problem.
Other posters referring the OP to tailstock alignment procedures are on the right track except these tailstocks cannot be adjusted in any way.
I briefly considered adjusting mine with a BFH but I would probably crack the casting. It really doesn't properly address the problem anyway.
One possible fix would be to sleeve the tailstock quill down from the original 3/4" ID to a smaller size, perhaps sized to receive Taig-size centers, chuck etc. The new ID could be drilled, then reamed to size in place. Not super high precision, but it has to be better than what is original on many of these lathes.
Whether the original quill bore is even parallel to the headstock axis of course is another kettle of fish, but at least you could have one certain amount of quill extension at which the centers would be in alignment.
Since I don't often turn between centers on this machine it's really a moot point for me but it still bothers me that so many of these lathes have this particular problem. I mean, is it that hard to make an accurate fixture to bore these castings on?
Robin Snyder
It's not a runout problem; it's not about the chuck. It's an alignment problem.
Other posters referring the OP to tailstock alignment procedures are on the right track except these tailstocks cannot be adjusted in any way.
I briefly considered adjusting mine with a BFH but I would probably crack the casting. It really doesn't properly address the problem anyway.
One possible fix would be to sleeve the tailstock quill down from the original 3/4" ID to a smaller size, perhaps sized to receive Taig-size centers, chuck etc. The new ID could be drilled, then reamed to size in place. Not super high precision, but it has to be better than what is original on many of these lathes.
Whether the original quill bore is even parallel to the headstock axis of course is another kettle of fish, but at least you could have one certain amount of quill extension at which the centers would be in alignment.
Since I don't often turn between centers on this machine it's really a moot point for me but it still bothers me that so many of these lathes have this particular problem. I mean, is it that hard to make an accurate fixture to bore these castings on?
Robin Snyder
There is no adjustment on these tail stocks as previously mentioned, Is this one of the newer ones with Morse taper or is it the older style with just a straight bore? If it is one of the older ones you may be able to build a custom shank for your drill chuck. I would first measure the run out then build a new shank with an eccentric that matches the offset. To get it to be repeatable you could cut a flat where the set screw in the quill tightens down on it.
I don't own a Porper Lathe but I have operated one.
It's based on round rails as opposed to a rigid cast-iron base/ways.
If the tailstock/headstock alignment is good with the tailstock near the chuck
but deviates as the T/S is moved away from the chuck then your rails are tweaked.
There are likely adjustments to be made with the FEET of the lathe to align the rails.
If one rail is higher at the T/S end than it is at the H/S end, that's likely your problem.
Put both rails on the same plane the entire length of their travel.
If they are 'twisted', it will cause the issue that you're now experiencing.
HTHs, KJ
It's based on round rails as opposed to a rigid cast-iron base/ways.
If the tailstock/headstock alignment is good with the tailstock near the chuck
but deviates as the T/S is moved away from the chuck then your rails are tweaked.
There are likely adjustments to be made with the FEET of the lathe to align the rails.
If one rail is higher at the T/S end than it is at the H/S end, that's likely your problem.
Put both rails on the same plane the entire length of their travel.
If they are 'twisted', it will cause the issue that you're now experiencing.
HTHs, KJ
KJ-
I for one certainly appreciate all suggestions and I'm sure the OP does too, but on the Porper lathes I have experience with, this is not the cause of the misalignment.
Different lathes have different strong points; the Porper has several.
Mine has served me well for many years so I'm certainly not putting the knock on these lathes in general, but this is a common problem.
I still think the root cause of this problem is an improperly machined tailstock casting.
Robin Snyder
I for one certainly appreciate all suggestions and I'm sure the OP does too, but on the Porper lathes I have experience with, this is not the cause of the misalignment.
Different lathes have different strong points; the Porper has several.
Mine has served me well for many years so I'm certainly not putting the knock on these lathes in general, but this is a common problem.
I still think the root cause of this problem is an improperly machined tailstock casting.
Robin Snyder
Then that tailstock would be a lot better if it's built like the metal lathes'.
Adjustable side to side.
Captain Obvious here.
I'm working on that idea as we speak...
And up and down as well with shimming.
That and dovetail bed . :grin-square:
MT3 instead of MT2.
6-jaw Bison and ER50 on a bearing'd steady rest.
Gettin' greedy.
Anything else?
This is the exact reason why i sold my proper. The Tailstock is fixed, and it is always out, and by a lot. Mine was .100 out. I got tired of trying to adjust it every time i needed to do some work. If it was adjustable where you can get it nice and straight, i'll look to buying again. But for now, ill stick with a smaller machine.
I was also very upset that proper would sell something so far out and expect the end user to find the solution for anything they need to do using the tailstock.
Other then that i really liked the machine. I hope they build something better someday.
I was also very upset that proper would sell something so far out and expect the end user to find the solution for anything they need to do using the tailstock.
Other then that i really liked the machine. I hope they build something better someday.