Posted vid of break form

[Scott Lee]

Elephant Man...It is not a stupid question. When your stroking arm is behind or ahead of perpendicular, at CB contact, it means that likely you are not striking the CB exactly where you think you are, or as accurately as you can. Yes it's true that some pros get away with things like this, but for the huge majority of us this small error will be magnified, especially as we increase the speed of our stroke. However, in the end, it is, as always, 'different strokes for different folks'!

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

Maybe this is a stupid question but... Does the arm/elbow need to be at 90 degrees when Q to QB contact is made when breaking? I try to do this when shooting, but never paid attention while breaking. Be it good or bad I do not know, but you are past 90 degrees even in your warm up stroke. Still looks like a nice controlled break to me though.

 

[KMRUNOUT]

Elephant Man...It is not a stupid question. When your stroking arm is behind or ahead of perpendicular, at CB contact, it means that likely you are not striking the CB exactly where you think you are, or as accurately as you can. Yes it's true that some pros get away with things like this, but for the huge majority of us this small error will be magnified, especially as we increase the speed of our stroke. However, in the end, it is, as always, 'different strokes for different folks'!

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

Scott,

I would argue that when your arm is not perpendicular at impact, you not only give up accuracy, but also power.

Here's a laugh: People always say that Efren's weak area is his break. These people need to lay off the crack ha ha! Efren's break doesn't *look* impressive or especially powerful, but the guy knows how to hit a cueball, and perhaps more accurately than anyone! Check out this vid. I would recommend to anyone to watch all 4 parts of this. The guy is playing about as good as a human can play. And his break is AMAZING towards the end of this match. Look at the break right after the 2:00 mark. How do you break better than that? I'm suggesting this video not to show his technique, but rather to make sure everyone is on the same page about what the *result* of the break should be.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgK5WEZDPsU&NR=1

KMRUNOUT

 

[KMRUNOUT]

One other thing:

People were talking about power vs. control. I don't think anyone will disagree that you want the maximum amount of control. I don't think there is ever a situation in which you want *less* control.

However, more power is not always good. Remember that the break is a specialty shot, like any other shot. You are playing position, and you are trying to pocket a ball...not with luck, but with a controlled shot. If you think ball pocketing on the break is random and lucky, you have much to learn about the break. For example, (and of course assuming a quality rack of balls), you can play the one in the side. This is actually not super hard to do. However, the principle variable that makes this happen is speed. If I hit the rack very hard, the one ball comes past the side pocket and down the table towards me. This is good to know in case the wing ball is going in easily, because then I can draw the cue ball ever so slightly (so that it gently rolls back and comes to rest near the headstring), thus giving me a high chance of having a shot on the one. If I hit the rack more softly, the one will hit the side rail before the side pocket, and tend to come out more near the center of the table. Again, if the wing ball is going in easily, you can play position for this as well. All of this also applies to the wing ball. If you break from the same spot, a hard break tends to force the wing ball more towards the side rail, and a soft break tends to make it go towards the end rail. Thus you can adjust your speed until it is falling in the pocket. For the head ball particularly, follow and draw can also adjust its trajectory. Thus proper cueing is WAY more important that lots of power. In many cases, more power is actually BAD for your break on that particular table, even if executed with perfect control.

Food for thought...

KMRUNOUT

 

[Scott Lee]

As usual, Kerry, you make some great points. The only problem is that we cannot 'convince' people of things that they "know" are "right" (or at least right for them)! LOL It was nice to see you in VF, and I look forward to seeing you in Boston later this summer!

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

One other thing:

People were talking about power vs. control. I don't think anyone will disagree that you want the maximum amount of control. I don't think there is ever a situation in which you want *less* control.

However, more power is not always good. Remember that the break is a specialty shot, like any other shot. You are playing position, and you are trying to pocket a ball...not with luck, but with a controlled shot. If you think ball pocketing on the break is random and lucky, you have much to learn about the break. For example, (and of course assuming a quality rack of balls), you can play the one in the side. This is actually not super hard to do. However, the principle variable that makes this happen is speed. If I hit the rack very hard, the one ball comes past the side pocket and down the table towards me. This is good to know in case the wing ball is going in easily, because then I can draw the cue ball ever so slightly (so that it gently rolls back and comes to rest near the headstring), thus giving me a high chance of having a shot on the one. If I hit the rack more softly, the one will hit the side rail before the side pocket, and tend to come out more near the center of the table. Again, if the wing ball is going in easily, you can play position for this as well. All of this also applies to the wing ball. If you break from the same spot, a hard break tends to force the wing ball more towards the side rail, and a soft break tends to make it go towards the end rail. Thus you can adjust your speed until it is falling in the pocket. For the head ball particularly, follow and draw can also adjust its trajectory. Thus proper cueing is WAY more important that lots of power. In many cases, more power is actually BAD for your break on that particular table, even if executed with perfect control.

Food for thought...

KMRUNOUT

 

[Andrew Manning]

Paksat, I'd work on that right wrist position. You have your wrist cocked way forward throughout the stroke, which introduces a lot of undue tension in my arm when I mimic it. Everyone's physiology is a little different, but you should try keeping it relaxed and letting your hand hang straight down from your forearm. This may not only decrease tension (allowing for a faster stroke with less effort), but it may also allow your wrist to become an active part of your break, which is essential to many power-breakers' stroke.

-Andrew